All Bosch dishwashers (and most modern appliances that use electronic control boards) store fault codes pertaining to specific areas the appliance is having a problem with... or at least the areas that the control board thinks is having a problem. Anyway, it's a good place to start. These control boards all have a secret key dance to enter that secret service mode and receive those error codes.
Now, for the first time ever in the history of the Interwebs, Brother PDuff reveals the super secret key dance to enter service mode and retrieve the stored error codes. Let's listen in...
You can try to access the test program to retrieve possible fault codes:
With the door closed, press and hold the second and fourth buttons to the right of the display while pressing the On button.
As long as these two buttons are pressed, the associated leds will light, then the display will show the model coding identifier. Release the two buttons.
Press the same two buttons to display any stored fault codes:
0 = No fault
1 = Fault in Hydro Sensing system
2 = Heater fault
4 = Fill fault
8 = Fault in NTC system
16 = Water switch cannot be positioned
Note: If more than one fault is detected, the fault code is added up. Ex: Fault code 3 = fault 1 + fault 2.
Press Off to exit.
Source: Bosch Dishwasher heatin problem
Replacing the SUMP ASSY (AJH31248604) and protecting/repairing (as needed) the Wire Loom inside the door assembly---will resolve your immediate problem ("LE" error).
The "LE" error is *extremely* common for all LG dishwashers built from 2004 through mid-2008.
The cause of the Wash Motor failure is due a process during manufacturing---that degraded/damaged the Wash Motor.
Replacing the entire Sump Assy makes perfect sense in this case (as opposed to just the Wash Motor) since the new design Sump Assy has a much better design internal gasket.
The original Sump Assy gaskets were extremely challenging to re-install (disassembly is required to replace the Wash Motor).
Replacing the Sump Assy---also has the benefit of having a new...
1) Wash Motor
2) Heating Element and internal Thermistor
3) Drain Motor
4) Soil Level Sensor
5) Vario Motor (switches water from lower washer arm-to-middle and upper wash arms---every 90 seconds)
After removing the door panel----inspect the Wire Loom from the bottom of the door-up-to-the-Detergent-Dispenser-Assy.
Repair wiring as needed.
Wrap the entire Wire Harness with electrical tape---from the bottom of the door up to the Detergent Dispenser Assy
Insert a cardboard cut-out---behind the Wire Harness---to further isolate the wiring from the Tar-Like Thermal/Sound Insulation of the door liner.
<<<I haven't fixed appliances before, but I'm a DIY guy in general.>>>
In that case---I'll provide some recommendations to further improve the dishwasher performance & reliability (especially if you are planning to replace the Sump Assembly).
Replace the following items:
1) Guide Assembly (4975DD1001A)
The Guide Assembly has been updated (improvement)---to eliminate the oft-elusive symptom of once-in-a-blue-moon water leaking from the lower corner of the door.
Replacement Guide Assys include a new FLOAT ASSY. Not only has this been re-designed (elimination of Styrofoam floats)---but since Tri-Sodium-Phosphate (TSP) is no longer used in dishwasher detergent (beginning July 2010---many FLOAT ASSYs are becoming clogged with fatty/greasy residue. This in turn---causes incorrect water fill/filling then draining/poor wash performance/water-on-floor-complaints.
This accumulation of sticky residue is becoming so commonplace---that replacing the Guide Assy is virtually mandatory (when I service an LG dishwasher).
Prior to July 2010---TSP in dishwashing detergent would chemically-react with the fatty/oily deposits in the dishwasher---and CONVERT it to a soap/detergent.
This chemical change (fat-to-detergent) is called "Saponification".
Today---dishwasher detergent cleans---not by saponification---but by "Enzyme" method (breaks down fatty/oily deposits into smaller pieces).
Hence---the oily/fatty residue remains with the wash water---and ideally or in theory---should be eventually rinsed/drained from the dishwasher---provided that the cycle duration/run time is longer than a "normal" cycle AND the wash/rinse water temperature is hot enough to effective remove the residue---sufficiently.
My experience has been that---over time---deposits will gum-up the Guide/Float Assy (and the hose leading to it from the Sump Assy) to the point of rendering the dishwasher essentially useless.
It's also why I believe that LG introduced an all-new re-designed dishwasher---shortly after the TSP-ban (entirely different water level sensing method---a water frequency sensor rather than using floats).
As an option---the Drain Hose (AEM6943803) can be replaced as well. This re-designed hose is intended to be used with the (also re-designed) Guide Assy. The correction was to prevent loss-of-wash-water during the Wash Cycle---especially in situations where the drain hose has been incorrectly installed into the floor---to a drain connection in the basement/crawl space.
This would eliminate "air sucking sounds" and heating element damage due to frequent insufficient amount of water in the tub during the cycle.
Lastly---installing a new (yes-re-designed) Filter Assy (ADQ32598202) can reduce the possibility of hard debris entering the Sump Assy during the cycle. The filter area has smaller openings to resist glass shards and other debris---such as a toothpick.
Before I forget---if you've replace the Sump Assy---and all works beautifully---but now you're noticing a whistle/growling sound during the wash cycle---post back:)
The CHOPPER/MASCERATOR was inexplicably changed from a good design with not-so-pointed ends on it----to a design which best resembles the tip of an indian arrowhead.
This pointed tip---causes whistling and/or grinding during wash.
The original Chopper was brought back---to stop the noise complaint (sigh).
Source: LG LDF6810ST Error Code "LE"
How to troubleshoot a Bosch dishwasher that won't finish a cycle, runs forever, or shows 2H in the display
Water heating problems in Bosch dishwashers come down to one of two problems:
- problem with the control board not sending voltage to the heater assembly or
- problem with the heater assembly itself
How's a brutha supposed to know which is which? Ah, Grasshoppah, come with me now on a journey of Total Appliance Enlightenment ™...
Remove the front panel so you can access the control board wiring.
Put one lead of your meter in the control board where the red wire connects. That's the heater power supply line. Attach the other lead of your meter to chassis ground.
Start the dishwasher in Quick Wash.
You're looking for 120vac on your meter. Wait for it, wait for it...
If you don't get 120vac there, you're done: order the new control board based on your exact, complete model number.
If you need help opening the dishwasher door and accessing the control panel, see this video.
If you get voltage there, then you know the control board is working for the Quick Wash cycle. However, I have seen several times where the control board puts out the voltage on the Quick Wash cycle but not the Normal cycle. At this point, you need to make a current draw measurement through the red wire to see if current is actually flowing through the heater now that you're getting voltage (about 9 amps for a good heater). If you are getting current, this confirms that the heater is good; again, replace the control board. If, OTOH, you are NOT getting current flow with 120vac present on the red wire, then you need to replace the heater assembly, the specfic heater you need will depend on your exact, complete model number, which is always read from the tag on the dishwasher itself, not from the paperwork or useless User Guide.
Go ye forth and conquer!
Problem is that most people don't know what they don't know but they THINK they know it all. Case in pernt:
Had a customer call me yesterday (Saturday) because the upper rack in their dishwasher came out. They insisted that I come right out. I told them that upper racks in dishwashers don't just come out on their own; great pains are taken during the design and manufacturing process precisely to ensure that this doesn't happen. Can you say, "class action lawsuit?"
I advised my customer that something had broken in the upper rack assembly to cause this unhappy condition, typically the rack stop or the rack rollers in the Whirlpool-Kitchenaid designs, and there was no reason for me to come out right away because I didn't have the needed parts but could order them and come out early next week. They insisted that I come right out because they KNEW nothing was broken.
So, in an effort to provide good service and giving the benefit of the doubt, I agreed to go out told them that they would be charged extra if it turned out that a part was needed that I didn't have (but knew would be needed).
And what did I find? Low and behold but the upper rack roller was had broken clean off!
They were appropriately contrite and embarrassed, paid for my service call fee for that day and will also pay full price for the repair when I return early next week with the needed rack roller.
Here's the part link to the upper rack rollers and how to replace them: http://click.linksyn...-ap3043711.html
And here's the part link to the upper rack stop, incase you need that instead: http://click.linksyn...-ap3886370.html
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Want an Interesting and Lucrative Career? Skip College and Go Into Appliance Repair!Samtech - Aug 14 2014 03:02 PM
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