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Samurai Appliance Repair Man's Blog



Retrieving Fault Codes Stored in a Bosch Dishwasher Control to Help Troubleshoot a Problem

Posted by Samurai Appliance Repair Man, in Dishwasher Repair 02 April 2014 · 315 views
Bosch, dishwasher, fault codes
Bosch dishwasher not heating? Stalling in cycle? Not filling? Some other weird problem? Wouldn't it be nice if you could get just get some clue about what's wrong? Well, you can!

All Bosch dishwashers (and most modern appliances that use electronic control boards) store fault codes pertaining to specific areas the appliance is having a problem with... or at least the areas that the control board thinks is having a problem. Anyway, it's a good place to start. These control boards all have a secret key dance to enter that secret service mode and receive those error codes.

Now, for the first time ever in the history of the Interwebs, Brother PDuff reveals the super secret key dance to enter service mode and retrieve the stored error codes. Let's listen in...

You can try to access the test program to retrieve possible fault codes:

With the door closed, press and hold the second and fourth buttons to the right of the display while pressing the On button.
As long as these two buttons are pressed, the associated leds will light, then the display will show the model coding identifier. Release the two buttons.
Press the same two buttons to display any stored fault codes:

0 = No fault
1 = Fault in Hydro Sensing system
2 = Heater fault
4 = Fill fault
8 = Fault in NTC system
16 = Water switch cannot be positioned

Note: If more than one fault is detected, the fault code is added up. Ex: Fault code 3 = fault 1 + fault 2.

Press Off to exit.



Source: Bosch Dishwasher heatin problem


The Silver Bullet Fix for LE Error Codes in LG Dishwashers

Posted by Samurai Appliance Repair Man, in Dishwasher Repair 06 December 2013 · 447 views
LG, dishwasher, LE, error code and 1 more...
Of all the error codes seen in LG dishwashers, the LE error is probably the common one asked about in The Samurai Appliance Repair Academy Kitchen Forum. So much so that it seemed like this one needed a Silver Bullet answer. And who better to fire that silver bullet than the Dean of LG Appliantology himself, john63. Y'all go grab you a cold one and let's listen to the big guns going off:

Replacing the SUMP ASSY (AJH31248604) and protecting/repairing (as needed) the Wire Loom inside the door assembly---will resolve your immediate problem ("LE" error).

The "LE" error is *extremely* common for all LG dishwashers built from 2004 through mid-2008.

The cause of the Wash Motor failure is due a process during manufacturing---that degraded/damaged the Wash Motor.

Replacing the entire Sump Assy makes perfect sense in this case (as opposed to just the Wash Motor) since the new design Sump Assy has a much better design internal gasket.
The original Sump Assy gaskets were extremely challenging to re-install (disassembly is required to replace the Wash Motor).
Replacing the Sump Assy---also has the benefit of having a new...

1) Wash Motor
2) Heating Element and internal Thermistor
3) Drain Motor
4) Soil Level Sensor
5) Vario Motor (switches water from lower washer arm-to-middle and upper wash arms---every 90 seconds)

After removing the door panel----inspect the Wire Loom from the bottom of the door-up-to-the-Detergent-Dispenser-Assy.

Repair wiring as needed.

Wrap the entire Wire Harness with electrical tape---from the bottom of the door up to the Detergent Dispenser Assy

Insert a cardboard cut-out---behind the Wire Harness---to further isolate the wiring from the Tar-Like Thermal/Sound Insulation of the door liner.

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<<<I haven't fixed appliances before, but I'm a DIY guy in general.>>>

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In that case---I'll provide some recommendations to further improve the dishwasher performance & reliability (especially if you are planning to replace the Sump Assembly).

Replace the following items:

1) Guide Assembly (4975DD1001A)

The Guide Assembly has been updated (improvement)---to eliminate the oft-elusive symptom of once-in-a-blue-moon water leaking from the lower corner of the door.

Replacement Guide Assys include a new FLOAT ASSY. Not only has this been re-designed (elimination of Styrofoam floats)---but since Tri-Sodium-Phosphate (TSP) is no longer used in dishwasher detergent (beginning July 2010---many FLOAT ASSYs are becoming clogged with fatty/greasy residue. This in turn---causes incorrect water fill/filling then draining/poor wash performance/water-on-floor-complaints.
This accumulation of sticky residue is becoming so commonplace---that replacing the Guide Assy is virtually mandatory (when I service an LG dishwasher).

Prior to July 2010---TSP in dishwashing detergent would chemically-react with the fatty/oily deposits in the dishwasher---and CONVERT it to a soap/detergent.
This chemical change (fat-to-detergent) is called "Saponification".
Today---dishwasher detergent cleans---not by saponification---but by "Enzyme" method (breaks down fatty/oily deposits into smaller pieces).
Hence---the oily/fatty residue remains with the wash water---and ideally or in theory---should be eventually rinsed/drained from the dishwasher---provided that the cycle duration/run time is longer than a "normal" cycle AND the wash/rinse water temperature is hot enough to effective remove the residue---sufficiently.

My experience has been that---over time---deposits will gum-up the Guide/Float Assy (and the hose leading to it from the Sump Assy) to the point of rendering the dishwasher essentially useless.

It's also why I believe that LG introduced an all-new re-designed dishwasher---shortly after the TSP-ban (entirely different water level sensing method---a water frequency sensor rather than using floats).

As an option---the Drain Hose (AEM6943803) can be replaced as well. This re-designed hose is intended to be used with the (also re-designed) Guide Assy. The correction was to prevent loss-of-wash-water during the Wash Cycle---especially in situations where the drain hose has been incorrectly installed into the floor---to a drain connection in the basement/crawl space.
This would eliminate "air sucking sounds" and heating element damage due to frequent insufficient amount of water in the tub during the cycle.

Lastly---installing a new (yes-re-designed) Filter Assy (ADQ32598202) can reduce the possibility of hard debris entering the Sump Assy during the cycle. The filter area has smaller openings to resist glass shards and other debris---such as a toothpick.

Before I forget---if you've replace the Sump Assy---and all works beautifully---but now you're noticing a whistle/growling sound during the wash cycle---post back:)

The CHOPPER/MASCERATOR was inexplicably changed from a good design with not-so-pointed ends on it----to a design which best resembles the tip of an indian arrowhead.
This pointed tip---causes whistling and/or grinding during wash.
The original Chopper was brought back---to stop the noise complaint (sigh).

Good Luck!



Source: LG LDF6810ST Error Code "LE"


How to troubleshoot a Bosch dishwasher that won't finish a cycle, runs forever, or shows 2H in the display

Posted by Samurai Appliance Repair Man, in Dishwasher Repair 29 November 2013 · 748 views
Bosch, dishwasher, cycle, heater and 1 more...
This is always a problem with the dishwasher's water heating system. In Bosch dishwashers, if they can't heat the water enough, they'll just keep running until they do. Kinda dumb design, I think. In comparison, Whirlpool-built dishwashers at least give you an obvious fault code like the clean light flashing seven times. But, I rectum that's my Pro-Amerkan bias bleedin' through. :blinky:

Water heating problems in Bosch dishwashers come down to one of two problems:

- problem with the control board not sending voltage to the heater assembly or

- problem with the heater assembly itself

How's a brutha supposed to know which is which? Ah, Grasshoppah, come with me now on a journey of Total Appliance Enlightenment ™...

Remove the front panel so you can access the control board wiring.

Put one lead of your meter in the control board where the red wire connects. That's the heater power supply line. Attach the other lead of your meter to chassis ground.

Start the dishwasher in Quick Wash.

You're looking for 120vac on your meter. Wait for it, wait for it...

If you don't get 120vac there, you're done: order the new control board based on your exact, complete model number.

If you need help opening the dishwasher door and accessing the control panel, see this video.

If you get voltage there, then you know the control board is working for the Quick Wash cycle. However, I have seen several times where the control board puts out the voltage on the Quick Wash cycle but not the Normal cycle. At this point, you need to make a current draw measurement through the red wire to see if current is actually flowing through the heater now that you're getting voltage (about 9 amps for a good heater). If you are getting current, this confirms that the heater is good; again, replace the control board. If, OTOH, you are NOT getting current flow with 120vac present on the red wire, then you need to replace the heater assembly, the specfic heater you need will depend on your exact, complete model number, which is always read from the tag on the dishwasher itself, not from the paperwork or useless User Guide.

Go ye forth and conquer!


How to install the upper rack stops and rack rollers in a Whirlpool-KitchenAid dishwasher

Posted by Samurai Appliance Repair Man, in Dishwasher Repair 29 September 2013 · 816 views
diswasher, rack, upper rack and 4 more...
Both the upper rack stop and roller assembly in the Whirpool-KitchenAid dishwashers are amazingly simple to install... IF you know the trick. Ain't that the way it always is in appliance repair: it's all a cake-walk IF you know what you're doing. And that's a big fat IF.

Problem is that most people don't know what they don't know but they THINK they know it all. Case in pernt:

Had a customer call me yesterday (Saturday) because the upper rack in their dishwasher came out. They insisted that I come right out. I told them that upper racks in dishwashers don't just come out on their own; great pains are taken during the design and manufacturing process precisely to ensure that this doesn't happen. Can you say, "class action lawsuit?"

I advised my customer that something had broken in the upper rack assembly to cause this unhappy condition, typically the rack stop or the rack rollers in the Whirlpool-Kitchenaid designs, and there was no reason for me to come out right away because I didn't have the needed parts but could order them and come out early next week. They insisted that I come right out because they KNEW nothing was broken.

So, in an effort to provide good service and giving the benefit of the doubt, I agreed to go out told them that they would be charged extra if it turned out that a part was needed that I didn't have (but knew would be needed).

And what did I find? Low and behold but the upper rack roller was had broken clean off!

They were appropriately contrite and embarrassed, paid for my service call fee for that day and will also pay full price for the repair when I return early next week with the needed rack roller.

Here's the part link to the upper rack rollers and how to replace them: http://click.linksyn...-ap3043711.html



And here's the part link to the upper rack stop, incase you need that instead: http://click.linksyn...-ap3886370.html


The Big Three Deadly Dishwasher Mistakes

Posted by Samurai Appliance Repair Man, in Dishwasher Repair 10 September 2013 · 4,417 views
dishwasher, film, washability and 1 more...
Deadly Mistake Numero Uno: Using a gel detergent or powered detergent that is old or has already gotten wet.

The main tasks of a detergent are to remove soil from surfaces and prevent the re-deposits of soils on the surfaces. The best detergent formulations will be powdered. Do not use gels or liquid detergents.

Why powdered detergent? Because in today's phosphate-free world, you need two types of cleaners in a detergent formulation to get dishes clean:

1. Enzymes to remove protein-based stains
2. Bleach to remove other stains

These two cleaners are incompatible with each other-- if they're released at the same time, the bleach will destroy the enzyme and, after this epic battle, there will be little or nothing left of the bleach to do even its little bit of cleaning. The result: dirty dishes. They can coexist in a powdered form because they are not activated until 1) they get wet and 2) the water temperature reaches 125 deg. F. In a liquid or gel form, everything is already wet so you're only getting one kind of cleaning action.

Detergent has a shelf life. Old detergent will not work well because the enzymes denature over time. Also, the detergent must stay dry until it's time to use it. Once it gets wet or even damp, it activates and will no longer be active when put to work inside the dishwasher.

In my experience as a professional Appliantologist, my customers have enjoyed much better dishwashing results after I switched them over to Finish Powerball tablets. I leave two free samples behind and invariably, they report vastly improved washing results. BTW, I do not make a kickback for giving out the Finish Powerball samples-- I do it because the manufacturer, Reckitt Benckiser, puts on an excellent training seminar at the appliance training sessions I attend and it really does work well.


Deadly Mistake Numero Duo: Pre-rinsing dishes.

It is not only okay to put dirty dishes into a dishwasher, it is mandatory to properly activate the detergent! Detergents are designed to work with food soils, not clean water. Without the food soils, the detergent will create a caustic slurry inside the dishwasher which will etch the glassware by removing the silica from the glass.

Not only that, but pre-rinsing the dishes wastes water. DOE estimates that pre-rinsing dishes uses 20 gallons of water per load. Scrape the chunks off with a fork and leave the rest on the dishes. It's a dishwasher, for crying out loud! Let it do what it was designed to do!


Deadly Mistake Numero Trio: Not scraping the chunks of food or solid debris off the plates before loading them into the dishwasher.

Taken together, these last two Deadly Mistakes are a great illustration of the saying, "The opposite of dysfunction is dysfunction." People tend to fall into one camp or the other: they're either OCD pre-rinsers or they use the dishwasher as a garbage disposal.

You wouldn't believe some of the junk I've pulled out of dishwashers! Here's a short list of some of the things I've dredged up from deep within the bowels of broken dishwashers:

- plastic wrappers
- tooth picks
- bits of bone
- broken glass
- mayonnaise jar label
- an adult human tooth!
- crab leg shells
- candle wick holders
- ear rings
- a tongue stud-- yes, a tongue stud!

Today's dainty little dishwashers can't handle hard solids and these things end up damaging the innards of the dishwasher such as breaking the macerator or binding the wash motor impeller.

So there you have it, the Big Three. Almost every dishwasher service call I go out on, the customer is doing at least one of the Three Deadlies. But not you! Nawsir, not no more 'cuz the Samurai hath done enlightened yo ace.


BONUS SECTION!

Since you slogged (or scrolled) through to the end of this post, here are a couple of bonus tips for getting the best performance from your dishwasher:

Tip #1: Use Rinse Aid!

It’s not an option with today’s dinky dishwashers. Rinse aid allows the dishwasher to use less water with the same amount of cleaning and drying effectiveness. It does this by creating what we professional appliantologists call “sheeting action” of the water. By making the water sheet along dishes, rather than cluster into beads, it evaporates faster and with less energy.

Tip #2: Do Routine Dishwasher Tune-Ups

No tools needed! Regularly using a dishwasher cleaner (Affresh) and performance booster (Glass Magic) to clear out the gookus and reduce the build-up will keep your dishwasher clean and fresh smelling and operating at peak performance.






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