Samurai Appliance Repair Man's Blog

Sublime Master KurtiusInterupptus waxes eloquently:

Wanna make damn sure before you try go expose that element...a real bitch to get at.

do you have an amp clamp? If so here is my method to test this ...
remove the door panel outer..
clamp amp clamp around red wire in the harness..
start a cycle, follow the red wire up to the controller and then take a small jumper wire and jump between the red and black wire in the back of that plug.
does the amp meter show a current of 8-10 amps? If so, the heater and high limit are good and prolly just a bad controller.

Part links:

Control Module

Heating Element

Heater voltage can be measured at the control module:



Source: Bosch Heater Element SHE43C02UC 43

Sublime Master john63 reveals the kata for this encounter:

<<<There is a grinding noise when first started up>>>


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Many Samsung DMR57 & DMR78 dishwashers are known for developing a rattling/grinding noise during DRAIN MODE.

This is usually caused by a broken plastic mounting tab from the upper rack ADJUSTERS.

Each side of the upper rack has a tan/gray square RACK ADJUSTER---after a mounting tab (or 2) breaks off---this piece of plastic eventually ends up in the DRAIN PUMP HOUSING.

The DRAIN MOTOR should be removed to inspect for debris.

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<<<after a minute or two I get 9e error code>>>

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A normal amount of water in a DMR78 dishwasher would be---at about 1 inch past the HEATER SHIELD in the tub.

If you've tested the SWITCHES on the LOW LEVEL SENSOR---then they're not at fault.

Press the following buttons at the *same* time:

DELAY START--NORMAL--POWER(button)

The word "ALL" appears for 3 seconds followed by  "t1"

(NOTE: Test #1 checks the functions of the INLET VALVE--FLOW METER--LOW LEVEL SENSOR)

Press the DELAY START button---the DRAIN MOTOR will run for 45 seconds. Then---water will enter the tub.

When the PULSE COUNT (on the display) reaches "660" or greater---press the NORMAL button four times.

A flashing "t5" will be displayed & water will drain for 30 seconds. After 30 seconds---the "t5" will stop flashing.

Press the NORMAL button again---"t6" will be displayed. The word "OFF" should appear in the control panel display---indicating that the LOW LEVEL SENSOR SWITCH is in the correct position for *No Water* in tub.

If the INLET VALVE--LOW LEVEL SENSOR--FLOW METER function normally----replace the MAIN BOARD.

Source: Samsung dmr78ahs dishwasher  grinding noise and error code 9e

Nah.  Normal operation in these gimpy, new energy-star dishwashers-- they skimp on the heat during the dry cycle so everything comes out wet.  Sublime Master KurtiusInterruptus explains:

The vent snorkel on these exits at the bottom left side of the door and has a small area that will catch condensation until  the dry fan can evaporate it away...if you open the door right after the cycle, this is the water that drips out on the floor...no fix I know off for this except to be aware of it and stand ready to wipe it up promptly...GE imagination,as master regus loves to say!

Source: Bought a new Dishwasher...PDWT100VWW

Master john63 enlightens us:

Usually a failed HEATING ELEMENT or HEATER RELAY.


Disconnect power & remove the dishwasher from under the counter.

The HEATER RELAY is located on the right side of the D/W. A metal panel/shield (on the right side) must be removed to gain access for testing.

Testing the HEATING ELEMENT *can* be done from the bottom/front---but is easier if the D/W is placed on it's back---and removing the bottom cover/panel.

In many cases I have seen failed HEATING ELEMENTS or RELAYS on Samsung D/Ws---in homes which had an INSTANT WATER HEATER (AKA: Tankless Water Heater).
This type of Water Heater requires a minimum GALLON-PER-MINUTE of water flow---before it will *heat* the water.
Many dishwashers have a lower GPM flow rate than required---this results in NO HOT WATER at all during water fill.
The D/W heating sytem remains "on" for long periods of time---each time the D/W is used.
Eventually the HEATING ELEMENT or HEATER RELAY fails.

Part link for the heating element ==> Heating Element


Source: Samsung dishwasher DMR78AHS  -- HE is displayed

Master Reg lays out the drill:

Checking keyswitch contacts:

Unplug dishwasher or disconnect power.
Remove connector P1 from the control board.
Using the table below,
http://appliantology...-ii-dishwasher/
measure the resistance across the switch when the key is pressed.
NOTE: The meter must be connected with the proper polarity.
This test will not work on models with a “touch sensor” type user interface.
The resistance reading should go from infinity (open circuit) with the key open
down to a readable Ω level with the key pressed.
The level may be different depending on your meter, since there is a diode in the circuit.
If available, you could use the “Diode Test” function of a digital meter,
which will give a voltage to turn on the diode in the circuit.
➔If any switches fail this test, replace the console panel/keypad assembly.
➔If all switches test OK, replace the machine control board.

KeyPad assembly
click on picture

Part links:

W10240046 Black
W10240047 White
W10240048 Biscuit


Source: Maytag mdb6709aws0 dishwasher inop.