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Testing a Microwave High-Voltage Rectifier

Posted by Samurai Appliance Repair Man, in Microwave Oven 10 December 2011 · 1,371 views

When you're troubleshooting a no-heat complaint in a microwave, one of the components you may need to check is the high-voltage rectifier (called a "rectumflyer" in the trade. :moondance:)

Trouble is, the junction resistance on these rectumfliers is so high that doing a standard forward and reverse bias test with an ohm meter won't tell you anything because it'll just read open in both directions. This video shows an easy method for testing these special critters:

To learn more about your microwave oven or to order parts, click here.




How to replace the door handle on a GE Spacemaker JVM over-the-range microwave

Posted by Samurai Appliance Repair Man, in Microwave Oven 10 October 2011 · 3,192 views

So, you go to open the door on your GE Spacesaver microwave and the handle comes right off in your hand! What's a brutha to do? Well, bro, you have two choices: replace just the door handle or replace the entire door. Replacing the door is obvious and easy but costs six times more than replacing just the handle. And while the handle alone is a relatively inexpensive part, it can be a tricky endeavor for the neophyte. Sublime Master RegUS_PatOff tiptoes us through these tulips.

To Remove Door Handle:

With door open:
1. Remove inner door trim.
2. Remove door handle screws.
Posted Image

To Remove Door:
1. Remove power, top grille and short out the Capacitor
2. Remove the 4 (2 on top & 2 on bottom) 5/16" head screws on door hinges and #2 phillips head screw on top.
3. Door will pull away from unit with the hinges attached to the door.
4. When reinstalling door reverse procedure and a to the control panel before securing door hinge screws.


Part link for the door handle ==> http://www.repaircli...3WHO1-%3d%3dc70

And this additional helpful hint from Sublime Master Chat_in_RI:

I would also order the choke cover, Item 11 in the above diagram. It breaks more often than not when prying it off to access the handle...


Part link for the choke cover ==> http://www.repaircli...55X10535/943106


Source: Door Handle-- GE Spacemaker JVM1653WHO1 over the range microwave.


The Willie Method ™ for testing a microwave oven magnetron tube

Posted by Samurai Appliance Repair Man, in Microwave Oven 18 September 2011 · 6,502 views
Willie, method, microwave and 1 more...
Sometimes, when you're troubleshooting a microwave, it can be tricky to tell whether or not the magnetron tube is bad. In the case with many GE microwaves, the magnetron can test good according to the filament resistance specifications yet fail when you're actually trying to get the damn thing to heat up your bagel.

One of the outstanding Master Appliantologists at Appliantology.org, Budget Appliance Repair (a.k.a., Willie) offered the following procedure for assessing the operational state of the magnetron:

Disconnect the two wires going to the magtube and set it for 20-30 seconds and run it. If no abnormal noises and no smell with magtube disconnected, (MAKE SURE BOTH WIRES THAT ARE DISCONNECTED FROM THE MAGTUBE ARE SAFELY AWAY FROM EVERYTHING AND MAKE SURE NOT TO GET NEAR THEM!!!!!!!), the most likely problem is a bad magtube.

If you short the capacitor, carefully with an insulated screwdriver after doing the above test and it sparks you can be pretty sure
the magtube is bad also.

If everything else checks OK and the smell is kind of a sweet plastic burning smell, (I don't know how else to explain it but once you've smell it once you will know for sure the next time), then it's for sure a bad magtube.



Source: Advantium 220 microwave electrical burning smell


And more from another post:

Do you also notice what seems to be a louder then normal buzzing/vibrating noise.

If so, take an amp reading and see how many amps the unit is drawing, (the one I worked on only came up to around 2.4 - 2.6 amps), and you could smell that burning magtube smell after a minute or so of running.

Then pull the two wires of the magtube and make sure the are away from everything and start it up again and see what the amp reading is, (I got around 5.6 amps and the heavy vibration noise wasn't there any more).

A good working microwave will draw about 2 - 3 amps when first started and in about 3 seconds, (after the filament is warmed up), you will see the amp draw come up the the full 11 - 12 amps that a microwave will pull. If you listen carefully when a magtube ramps up power, (you will here a real light buzz noise after the filament warms up), you will see how that corresponds to the amp raise.


Source: GE OTR Microwave JVM1871SH001


How to troubleshoot a Panasonic microwave oven with an H95 error code

Posted by Samurai Appliance Repair Man, in Microwave Oven 16 September 2011 · 965 views

Master appl.tech offers these tips:

Ensure your filament leads on the magnatron aren't open (open = bad)


need to verify that your getting 120V to the inverter (if not = bad board)

the 2 signal wires to the inverter should be showing 3VAC from the board (if not = bad board)

If the above all check good then you have a bad inverter.



Source: Panasonic Microwave NN-SD277W






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