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What does the run capacitor do in split-phase compressor circuits?

Posted by Samurai Appliance Repair Man , in Appliance Repair Training, Refrigerator Repair 12 July 2015 · 1,084 views
compressor, refrigerator and 2 more...

The run capacitor is wired in series with the start winding. When the compressor first starts, the run capacitor is shunted by the closed PTC (or whatever start relay or device is being used) so current just flows through the main and start windings which are in parallel with each other. The start winding is there to create that split-phase magnetic field that's out of phase with the main winding field that rotates around the stator. This rotating magnetic field is what starts the rotor turning from a dead stop.

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After the compressor has started and is up and running, the PTC opens which removes the shunt from the run capacitor. Now the run capacitor and start winding are in series with each other and both are in parallel with the main winding.

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At this point, the run capacitor does a couple things:

1) limits current flow through the start winding

2) smooths out the back EMF pulses from the main winding.

The net effect of the run capacitor is to reduce the current draw of the compressor while running (which also helps it run a bit cooler) and to help the compressor run smoother and more efficiently.

If the run capacitor were shorted (ie., replaced by a wire), the compressor would still start but the compressor would draw A LOT more current, run very rough, and quickly kickout on thermal overload.

I have never seen a run capacitor fail short.

Learn more about refrigerators and how to troubleshoot them in the Refrigerators training course at the Samurai Tech Academy.

Source: Sub Zero 632-S S/N prior to 1810000


Refrigerator Troubleshooting Quiz

Posted by Samurai Appliance Repair Man , in Refrigerator Repair, Appliance Repair Training 08 January 2015 · 671 views
refrigerator, flow chart and 1 more...
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When you're ready to check your answer, click here.


What problem is this refrigerator having and what repair does it need?

Posted by Samurai Appliance Repair Man , in Refrigerator Repair 14 December 2014 · 710 views
refrigerator, quiz, Samsung
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When you're ready for the answer, click here.


What's wrong with this picture?

Posted by Samurai Appliance Repair Man , in Icemaker Repair, Refrigerator Repair 09 December 2014 · 1,843 views
refrigerator, icemaker and 2 more...
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This is a picture from a recent service call I did. That white/translucent plastic tubing you see coming out of the floor and connecting to the gray PEX tubing on the refrigerator is a big No-No. That's a flood waiting to happen. Think about it: that plastic tubing us under household water pressure 24/7-- that's 40 to 60 psi. Combine that with with the fact that it gets hot behind a refrigerator that's pushed back against the wall, especially in summer.

Heat... plastic... brittle... cracked or burst plastic tubing.

And what's to stop the water from spraying out at household pressure when (not if) that plastic tubing breaks? Ain't but one thing: your hand on the shut off valve to stop the water flow.

What if you can't find the shut off valve to stop the water flow because the plumber installed it in a weird location or the house has been renovated since the water line was installed and the valve is inaccessible?

What if you can't reach the shut off valve because it's up behind a drop ceiling and you can't find the ladder during the panic to stop the water?

What happens if you're not home when that cheap plastic tubing bursts, as it inevitably will given enough heat and time?

You get the idea. So how do you avoid all this unpleasantness? Any water supply line or tubing in your house that's under continuous household pressure should only be one of three things: copper, steel-braided flex line, or PEX.

Now, if the plastic water tubing were AFTER the refrigerator's water inlet valve, as is commonly the case with older refrigerators, not such a big deal because 1) the tubing is not under continuous pressure; it’s only under pressure when the solenoid valve opens which 2) only occurs for several seconds every couple of hours or so for the ice maker or on-demand for the water dispenser.

Moral of the story: plastic and household plumbing don't mix.


How to Disassemble the Dispenser in an LG Refrigerator

Posted by Samurai Appliance Repair Man , in Refrigerator Repair 08 September 2014 · 1,118 views
LG, refrigerator, dispenser
Brother Chat calls the dance steps on this one. This particular case is for model number LSC26905TT but the same procedure applies to many other LG models, too.

1) Disconnect funnel and button assembly by pulling down and forward.
2) Remove display frame Assembly by making a gap between a display frame Assembly and funnel Assembly. with a balde screwdriver and pulling it forward. The cover dispenser is attached with a hook.
3) The Display Assembly can be connected by pressing the top of the dispenser cover and pushing it after separating the Display Frame from its housing.
4) Loosen four screws with a phillips screwdriver and pull the funnel Assembly to disconnect.
5) The Duct Cap Assembly can be disconnected if the hold lever connecting screw is loosened with a phillips driver.
6) To install the Duct Cap Assembly, insert one end of the spring into the right hole of the dispenser lever and insert the other end into the right hole in the top part of the dispenser. Then attach the holder at the solenoid switch.


You'll have to subscribe to download above service manual.

Source: lg lsc26905tt

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