This is a picture from a recent service call I did. That white/translucent plastic tubing you see coming out of the floor and connecting to the gray PEX tubing on the refrigerator is a big No-No. That's a flood waiting to happen. Think about it: that plastic tubing us under household water pressure 24/7-- that's 40 to 60 psi. Combine that with with the fact that it gets hot behind a refrigerator that's pushed back against the wall, especially in summer.
Heat... plastic... brittle... cracked or burst plastic tubing.
And what's to stop the water from spraying out at household pressure when (not if) that plastic tubing breaks? Ain't but one thing: your hand on the shut off valve to stop the water flow.
What if you can't find the shut off valve to stop the water flow because the plumber installed it in a weird location or the house has been renovated since the water line was installed and the valve is inaccessible?
What if you can't reach the shut off valve because it's up behind a drop ceiling and you can't find the ladder during the panic to stop the water?
What happens if you're not home when that cheap plastic tubing bursts, as it inevitably will given enough heat and time?
You get the idea. So how do you avoid all this unpleasantness? Any water supply line or tubing in your house that's under continuous household pressure should only be one of three things: copper, steel-braided flex line, or PEX.
Now, if the plastic water tubing were AFTER the refrigerator's water inlet valve, as is commonly the case with older refrigerators, not such a big deal because 1) the tubing is not under continuous pressure; it’s only under pressure when the solenoid valve opens which 2) only occurs for several seconds every couple of hours or so for the ice maker or on-demand for the water dispenser.
Moral of the story: plastic and household plumbing don't mix.
1) Disconnect funnel and button assembly by pulling down and forward.
2) Remove display frame Assembly by making a gap between a display frame Assembly and funnel Assembly. with a balde screwdriver and pulling it forward. The cover dispenser is attached with a hook.
3) The Display Assembly can be connected by pressing the top of the dispenser cover and pushing it after separating the Display Frame from its housing.
4) Loosen four screws with a phillips screwdriver and pull the funnel Assembly to disconnect.
5) The Duct Cap Assembly can be disconnected if the hold lever connecting screw is loosened with a phillips driver.
6) To install the Duct Cap Assembly, insert one end of the spring into the right hole of the dispenser lever and insert the other end into the right hole in the top part of the dispenser. Then attach the holder at the solenoid switch.
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Source: lg lsc26905tt
Parts manual for further insight: http://appliantology...r-parts-manual/
Well, the parts list helped. I must say that this was the easiest door change on a side by side with a dispenser I've ever done.
Not sure if this will help anyone but I promised to post something and here it is. Please forgive typos and such...
Open freezer and turn off the ice maker.
Remove the top hinge cover and disconnect the three molex connectors - no need to disconnect or shut off the water supply.
Remove the ground screw from the top hinge.
Remove the front grill or kick plate.
Disconnect the water line at the bottom of the door, leaving the John Guest fitting off the line, but still attached to the line from under the refer.
Loosen and remove the two 3/8 screws on the top hinge and carefully remove the hinge and set atop the refer, while holding the door, then pick the door up and set on a flat surface.
Look up into the dispenser and note the two screws holding the narrow plastic cover - remove the narrow plastic cover.
Note the two black colored screws holding the dispenser display and remove the two screws.
Gingerly pull the display away from the dispenser and disconnect the mini wire harnesses.
Take a photo of the remaining dispenser wiring and store it on your phone to refer during reassembly.
Note the two silver colored screws holding the dispenser, and the green ground wire clipped to the upper portion of the door skin.
Remove the ground wire by pushing it off with your finger.
Note the black plastic zip tie holding the water line in place and remove the zip tie.
Note the proximity of the electronic circuit board on the dispenser and use care not to allow water to drip onto it during the next step.
Remove the two silver colored screws and carefully extract the dispenser assembly, while removing the water line from the three clips, and disconnecting the wire connectors.
Remove the wire harness by gently pulling it up through the top of the door and feed it into the new door.
Remove the water line by gently pulling it up through the dispenser area and re feed it into the new door, through the dispenser first and pushing it toward the bottom. Leave about two inches exposed at the bottom.
Carefully remove the plastic sheeting covering the new door around the edges and the gasket area, but leave it intact on the face of the door.
Using a 3/32 allen key remove the two screws holding the handle and gently lift the handle and set aside. Use a 3/8 tool to remove the holding bolts and place on the new door and tighten. Re attach the handle and tighten.
Remove the gasket from the old door and place onto the new door. It's easy!
Re install the dispenser into the new door and place the water line into the three clips, careful not to allow any water drops to spill onto the circuit board.
Carefully place the door back onto the refer and attach the top hinge and two screws, aligning the door. Tighten the screws. Connect the ground wire, but do not connect the three molex connectors yet!
Connect the water line at the bottom and pull the excess back up and into the dispenser area. You may have to play with the length of tubing until it sits right.
Re connect the wiring.
Re attach the green ground clip and wire to the under side of the dispenser area - refer to your photo!
Check your work with the photo on your camera. Check the route of the water line and ensure it is relaxed and correctly positioned.
Connect the wires remaining to the display board and re attach the display.
Re attach the cosmetic faceplate.
Connect the three molex connectors and replace the cosmetic hinge cover. Plug the unit back in.
If you get a trouble code like I did, the unit will beep for about five minutes and then suddenly stop and return to normal display.
It's a snap to change. Remove the rest of the plastic cover protecting the door skin, turn on the ice maker, don't forget the plastic compartments on the inside of the door, and collect!
Source: Fridgidaire, Refer, FGHC2331PF0, door replacement, freezer, refer, both
There's something going on with these dual evap units, and Whirlpool is aware of it. Per Service Pointer W10666205A dtd March 2014:
Slow Ice/No Ice
Warmer than normal freezer temperature
Long/Constant run time
Partial frost pattern on the freezer evaporator
discoloration or deterioration of the refrigerator evaporator housing
Note: The first symptom a customer notices is usually a decrease in ice production followed by a noticeable temperature increase in freezer and longer than normal cooling cycles.
1. Verify the above symptoms with customer.
2. Check and record freezer, refrigerator and ice box temperatures.
3. Run tech sheet diagnostic test #4 (Compressor/Condenser fan/Evaporator fan) and #56 (I/M error codes) and record the results. Call the Techline (Authorized Servicers Only) from the customers home for further instructions.
Affected Serial Numbers: K217XXX - K335XXX
And Brother CubbieBear84 reports this:
We have scraped 3 of these fridges already. I've heard there's holes in the evap. Tech-line will record all the data and if it fits within their set criteria they give a concession number and send a new one.
Something to keep in mind if you're called out on one of these with a warm compartment complaint.
Source: model WRF989SDAF00 whirlpool frig.
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