Brother Reg elegantly steps us through the circuit diagram for this one.
When the Defrost cycle starts (Timer Motor pauses), the Neutral goes through the Defrost Heater, Defrost Thermostat, and Thermal Fuse to Line. Whenever the Defrost Thermostat "opens", the Neutral still goes through the Defrost Heater, but now travels through the Timer Motor and "seeks" the Line through the Compressor.(and Overload). Motor resumes, but since the Motor is of a "high" resistance, the Heater hardly heats anymore, until the Timer completes it's "Defrost timing", and then it switches the Neutral back to itself and to the Compressor. If any of those parts aren't working, the Motor may not run at the specific time.
I noticed I never could seem to find them on the part breakdown, so I made a list. Here ya go!
Electrolux and Frigidaire Refrigerator Water Valve Diode in Harnesses by Model and Ice Maker Style.
Refrigerator Style Ice Maker Type Part Number Side X Side Crescent Cube 5303918287 French Door Finger Evaporator 242102101 French Door Flex Tray 242119101 On French Door models it doesn't matter if there is a crescent cube ice maker in the freezer section or not, order the diode according to the style of the ice maker that's in the fresh food section.
One of the many things that can make a refrigerator warm up is the compressor is trying but failing to start. You may occasionally hear this type of noise from the back of the refrigerator (starts about 15 seconds in):
This is the sound of your compressor trying, but failing miserably, to start. Best case scenario: Bad compressor start relay. Worst case scenario: open compressor start winding or seized compressor bearing == buy a new refrigerator.
Question: How do you tell which is which?
Answer: Compressor test cord.
Question: What's a compressor test cord and how do I make one?
Question: How do you know which is the start, run, and common connection posts on the compressor?
Answer: Use Brother Bobice's procedure for identifying the compressor electrical terminals:
Using a good multimeter set on ohms, remove the compressor terminal cover with the unit off.
Brother Durham offers these sage and comforting words of appliantological wisdom for dealing with door closing and sealing problems in Amana refrigerators. Let us attend:
After working on countless fridges with door closing problems in my refurbished store as well as outside repairs, I usually can get them to close without having to buy new door closers or hinges... Amanas have been the most problematic of them all but there are several things you can try before buying new parts....
this is stream of consciousness so not in any particular order...do the easiest ones first
1) make sure the doors are aligned ....adjust the top hinges so the doors do not touch when closing....you have to find the proper angle
2) Soften the gasket with a steamer or hot water to make it pliable...don't forget to check the very bottom of the fridge
3) try adding a bit of food grade oil/grease on the right hand side of the fridge where the fridge gasket "rides" against it. There have been some discussion about the oil's effect on plastic gaskets....I have never experienced this problem....it may degrade the plastic after many many years.
4) make sure that any light switch that is pressed by the door when closing is at a proper angle to the door and does not stick
5) Adjust the fridge feet or wheels so that there is a slight incline on the fridge to enable gravity to assist in closing. This is proper for older non bottom freezer fridges.
6) Sometimes doors can get bent and many manuals advise slightly bending them back in alignment so that the top and bottom gasket hits the fridge at the same time.
7) adding a washer to the bottom hinge pin can slightly raise the fridge door and make closing easier
8) make sure there are no shelves out of place. Some fridge manual advise that certain door racks not be placed to where it hits food or drawers inside the fridge cabinet
9) The sneakiest one of them all and has caused be much consternation in the past is this: there is a metal piece attached to the door near the bottom hinge. It is there for cosmetic purposes to hide the hinge. Sometimes they get bent and causes the door not to close as easily as it should. You can remove it or bend it out of the way if you find that it hits the bottom of the fridge.
10) Make sure your gaskets and area where the gaskets seal on the fridge are clean and dirt free.
If none of the above works, you may need to get another door closer for the bottom hinge.
Refrigerator warming up and you can't think straight enough to figure out what's wrong because you're in a pure, blind panic? Well, you just unbunch them panties and sing along with the Samurai in his Warm Refrigerator Troubleshooting Flowchart and you'll have the problem figured out before you can say, "pneumonoultramicroscopicsilicovolcanoconiosis."
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