This has been a long-time vexing problem in some LG refrigerator models. You'll also see this on Kenmore and GE refrigerators that were built by LG. The unit defrosts properly but builds up rime ice inside the freezer looking like there's an air leak, like from a bad door seal. But the door seals are good and no source of air leak can be found. Brother Durham found this tech memo that explains it and offers the cure: a redesigned evaporator fan motor.
The "Jazz" control board is what Whirlpool (makers of Amana and Maytag appliances) calls the Adaptive Defrost Control (ADC) board used in some models of french door and bottom-mount Maytag and Amana refrigerators. You can identify the Jazz control board by the two, single-digit digital displays for the freezer and fresh food temperature adjustment that are located at the top of the fresh food compartment.
These Jazz boards fail pretty frequently. The two most common failure modes on these boards are
1) Failure to initiate defrost and
2) Failure to stop the compressor during defrost.
In both cases, the evaporator frosts up so much that air can't flow through it anymore. When I get the call, the typical complaint is that the freezer temperatures are fine but the fresh food compartment (the beer compartment) is not cold enough.
Troubleshooting these Jazz boards is pretty straightforward. Put the unit into forced defrost mode and see if the defrost heating element in the freezer heats up. You can tell this in a number of ways:
- feel the heating element (carefully!) if you can reach it - listen for sizzling as the frost melts off the evaporator and hits the hot element - measure current or wattage change (should increase)-- a Kill-A-Watt meter makes this quick and easy to do.
If the defrost heater does not get hot in forced defrost mode, then you need to disassemble the freezer and check continuity of the defrost limiter and defrost heater. But, I gotta tell ya, in these units I replace far more Jazz boards than I do defrost limiters. And I don't think I've ever had to replace a defrost heater in one of these models.
So, how do you put the Jazz control board into forced defrost mode? I thought you'd never ask! The tech sheet behind the toe grill has instructions like this:
You can watch me in action as I show you how to run diagnostics on these boards, including putting it into forced defrost mode.
As far as replacing the Jazz board, there are a couple techniques out there. First thing is to remove the light cover (the clear plastic part over the lights behind the control panel). It just slides back and off. That's the easy part.
One way to get at the Jazz board is to remove the entire control housing, like ahso:
The other method, and my preferred method, is to just unclip the Jazz board housing, letting it swing down, but leaving the rest of the control housing intact, like ahso:
You can also watch me in action as I replace the Jazz Board in one of these refrigerators:
The replacement Jazz board comes with an instruction sheet. Read this carefully because you have to program the Jazz board according to the program code on the model number sticker inside the beer compartment.
This Public Service Announcement is brought to you today by Brother fixyourboard of Fixyourboard.com fame, providing fast, expert rebuild and repair of NLA circuit boards:
After replacing evaporator fan and having the main board rebuilt ... the new fan wouldn't run. Well it turns out that the new fan comes with a new wire harness BUT it only applies to certain models. It swaps some wires around and if you install it on the wrong model the evaporator fan doesn't get power!!! It looks just like the orignal (unless you look closely at the pinout). It seems the fan doesn't ship with the WP instruction sheet. Fan p/n 8201589, board p/n 2252159 and brothers, jumper harness p/n 2221077.
This has got to have caused a lot of head bangin' ! ??
Here's the instruction sheet. Sorry it's a png. Site didn't let me attach the pdf.
You're probably going to find the evaporator coil in the freezer choked in with frost, in which case, the problem is almost always the infamous Jazz Control Board.
There's a tech sheet in the toe grill that tells how to put the board in diagnostic mode for various tests. But the most common failures with this board are 1) failing to initiate defrost and 2) keeping compressor running during defrost. Both result in a frosted up evaporator coil.
Put the unit into forced defrost. If the defrost heater fires up, that means the defrost heater and limiter are good. Then go ahead and replace the Jazz Board.
Here's my video showing how to do the diagnostic dance:
If you're working on a GE refrigerator that's dead in the water and you've checked for a good 120vac power supply right up to the J11 connector on the muthaboard, then try this troubleshooting tip from Brother BryanS:
Sometimes a shorted fan motor can give you that same scenario. You can try unplugging j2 fan connector and see if the compressor comes on. If it does then you need to just determine which motor is shorted. I've only this happen to me once and it was the evap motor.
The muthaboard diagram below shows the location of the J2 connector of which Brother BryanS speaks:
You can see a bigger version of the muthaboard diagram here.
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