Brother Durham explains the diagnostic test kit available for GE refrigerators:
If you do a lot of GE fridge repairs, you may benefit by getting a diagnostic aid shown in the following video. It is, in essence, nothing but a control panel that you can use and will bypass the one in your fridge, whether it is a similar panel, knobs or lcd screen control found at the dispenser. With such a panel, if you connect it and everything works, then you will be certain you have a bad control panel.
btw, the part numbers needed for the aid have been changed. Instead of the three parts mentioned in the video, you need two WR55X10390 (interface and touch panel kit) and WX05X14999 ( wire harness). I got one a few weeks ago and it paid for itself in a few days.
ps you can make one of these by removing a 5 key control interface from an otherwise dead GE and then purchase the harness.
If you're looking for an appliance part, use the Appliantology parts search box at the top and bottom of every page on this web site. All parts ordered through the links and search boxes at this site come with a one year return policy, even on electrical parts and circuit boards. Here's the story of someone searching for a part who was right here at Appliantology and could have quickly found what she needed by using the parts search box. Heads up to the wise!
Your Name: Mari
Your Appliantology Username, if you have one:
What would you like to talk about? Other NON-APPLIANCE REPAIR problem
Talk to the Samurai: Hello Samurai, It seems I have that "infamous and failure-prone adaptive defrost control board" for Jenn-Air JCD2389GEW as pictured here on your website. It has the same numbers #P19-399# SIEBE APPLIANCE CONTROLS 1996. It also has various other numbers such as MAYT78245.001, ECD#100-01103-01, 20R1448-00, 60727Q, AJW4212, JWIFSN, 062707367, and also THAILAND. I would like to know which part I would need to replace this part. My "original" still keeps the freezer and ice-maker working properly, fans are turning, and refrigerator section is cool, although probably not cool enough, but it does not defrost itself. I have to manually defrost every morning and evening to keep it going. There are so many of these Part #61005988 offered for sale at a great variety of pricing, so I don't know which to choose, as they all claim to be #61005988. I contacted Jenn-Air and was told that mine was Part #61003990. I tried ordering an inexpensive generic part #61003990/#61005988, but that didn't function at all, and did not operate my fridge at all; total waste of time and effort. I had to reinstall my original part; I have no difficulty installing the part, as I know how to do it, and I am proficient at it! I guess I need an "original", but I don't know where to obtain one. Perhaps a more expensive OEM part #61005988 would work, but now I'm almost afraid to try again. The part I tried had a number on it #MA7700112254-TH#. I assume that the "TH" stands for Thailand. It certainly DIDN'T have the #61003990 or #61005988 on it. I DON’T WANT THAT PART AGAIN! It is confusing to have all these products available with the same part number and a wide variety of different prices. I've seen so-called brand new items like this for as low as $19.95. I would appreciate your input. I need a "working" part, not a make-believe part, to waste my time and effort. WHY are there so many different prices on this item???? DOES the price affect the “workability” of the product???? WHICH PART NUMBER SHOULD I ASK FOR???? I look forward to your response. THANK YOU MOST KINDLY, Regards, Mari
Dear Mari, O dear, dear Mari,
The solution to your dilemma was staring you in the face the whole time you were at this site when you sent me your email posted above! At both the top and bottom of every page on this site, you'll see conspicuous parts search boxes where you can enter a model number, part number, type of appliance, brand, or even a part description. There's even one right here in this blog at the top of the right-hand column!
In your case, you already knew not just the model number of your refrigerator, but the part numbers for the ADC board, too. If you paste in each of the part numbers you were wondering about, 61003990 and 61005988, one at a time into the parts search box, you'll see that they both resolve to the same part number: 61005988.
Here's the replacement ADC board you need for your Jenn-Air fridge:
I can't emphasize enough what a powerful tool the parts search boxes are at this site!
Now for the question about where to buy the part. You also mentioned buying generic parts. One word of advice on buying generic parts: DON'T! I explain why in this issue of our award-winning newsletter, Appliantology: The Oracle of Appliance Enlightenment.
BTW, if you're not a subscriber to our newsletter, Appliantology, you're missing out! Every issue is jam-packed with Special Samurai Secrets ™ for saving money, life, and limb with your appliances. Taunt your friends and delight your enemies with your amazing new knowledge! And best of all, it's FREE! Subscribe to Appliantology today.
Another thing to keep in mind is that all parts purchased through this website carry a one year no-hassle return policy, even electrical parts that have been installed! It's insane!
Also, when you buy parts through the links and search boxes on this site, a small percentage of your purchase goes to supporting this website without costing you one penny more for the parts you order. So, if you’re going to order appliance parts anyway, how ’bout using the links on this website to ensure that the Samurai will be here the next time you need appliance repair help? Can I hear an "Amen?"
Spring 2013 is finally here! When I think about spring, I think, "Oh, goodie: Refrigerator Season!" Why do I get excited and squeal like a little piglet in a donut shop about Refrigerator Season? Because I know my phone is about to explode with a whole lotta high-dolla warm refrigerator repair calls. Here are five simple things you can do to your refrigerator right now to keep your beer tooth-crackin' cold right on through the up-coming summer heat wave.
2. Clean, gap-check, and replace-as-needed your refrigerator door gaskets
Use some Simple Green to wipe down the door gaskets and their mating surface on the refrigerator cabinet. Check for gaps, tears, or sags all the way around the perimeter of the door where the gasket meets the cabinet. If you see any gaps or damage to the gaskets, it's time to replace 'em. RepairClinic carries a complete line of replacement gaskets for all brands and models of refrigerators, all with a one year guarantee.
3. If your refrigerator has a digital display, make sure it's plugged into a surge suppressor
A digital display on a refrigerator (or any appliance) is a sure sign that it has at least one electronic control board in it. These electronic boards are just like the electronic boards used in your computer and they are subject to the same vulnerabilities as your computer. And, just like you would always use a surge suppressor to protect your computer from voltage spikes and other junk coming in on the power lines, you need to do the same thing with your home appliances that use electronic boards, which include almost all appliances manufactured within the last few years.
4. Replace your refrigerator water filter
This will both protect you from gookus in the water as well as prevent flow and pressure problems with your dispenser or ice maker. We carry a complete line of refrigerator water filters for all brands and models all at great prices and conveniently delivered to right to your home.
5. Beat the stink!
With warmer temperatures come more odors. Use this inexpensive refrigerator deodorizer to gobble up odors in your refrigerator and keep it smelling clean and fresh.
To learn more about your refrigerator or to order parts, click here.
I just wanted to share a part number I recently received from Whirlpool after much arguing and tons of recalls for this issue. I work in Northern VA area, and we have ran a lot of builder calls around here with the top shelf freezing on the SXS for the last 2 years. Whirlpool made us change sensors, pcb, dampers, blame the customer for blocking the back shelves, applying permgum inside damper area, etc. There haven't been many techs on our team that have run into this as much as the few of us stuck running new home calls. I found out they made a new damper design to fix this issue, but did not have a part# for a long time. I was to the point of telling the customer not to call us back for this issue and contact their builder and Whirlpool, so they could get this new damper. Well the part# for this new damper is W10572852. I hope this helps anyone that may run into this issue. I do not have specific model numbers, but it has mainly been the SXS manufactured in the last couple years with the ice makers located on the freezer door.
We all love those jobs where, given the brand, model, and problem description, you walk into the house already knowing what the problem is. After you've worked as an appliance tech for a while, you start noting that every machine has weak points and particular failure patterns. Some failures become so well-known that the manufacturer will issue a service bulletin on it. But what about those jobs where it's not a clear case of plug n' chug, in other words, where you DON'T know exactly what part to replace to fix the problem? Well, that may be when you have to use the tech sheet schematic, your trusty meter, and that gray swirling muck betwixt your ears to track down a pesky electrical problem.
If you don't have much experience using schematics to solve problems, this article will give you some good, practical foundational information that'll help bring you up to speed. This won't be a theoretical primer on basic electricity and making electrical measurements-- I expect most of you reading this already have that-- nawsir, we's just gonna jump right into real-world appliance problems and get stuff fixed using schematic diagrams.
In this excursion into Appliantological Excellence, we're going to review three recent service calls I did on two refrigerators and a front load washer where I used the tech sheet schematic to ruthlessly hunt down the troublesome gremlins and terminate them with extreme prejudice. In all three cases, you'll see the actual schematics used and how they were crucial to planning and executing my victorious assault.
Fixing A No-Drum Movement Problem In A Frigidaire Front-Load Washing Machine
We've all been on the no-spin complaints in these Frigidaire front load washers. As long as the drum moves during tumble, you know with 98.76% certainty that the problem is a bad door lock assembly, like in this case. Easy repair, badda-bing, badda-boom, skip n' pluck to the next job and life is good.
But what about the case where the drum isn't moving at all, no tumble, no spin, no nuttin'? Could be a bad motor control board. Could be a bad motor. Could be a bad wire connection. Could be lotsa things. But when we're on a service call, "could be's" don't do us any good; we need to slam-dunk, dead-nutz KNOW what the problem is. After all, ain't that why we professional Appliantologists makes the big money?
This video shows that sometimes finding the problem is just as much about finding voltage where it shouldn't be as much as it is about finding voltage where it should be. Using the schematic and ladder diagram on the tech sheet, I was able to prove that the problem was the motor control board because it was backfeeding 120vac to the pressure switch. Something had shorted on that board and it was toast. This justified the huge PITA of pulling this stack unit out of the closet in which it was installed (in a kitchen with new hardwood floors, no less!) to install the new board. And problem solved.
Fixing A Whirlpool Refrigerator That Intermittently Warms Up
This unit is the one with the small ADC board and mechanical cold control in the fresh food compartment control panel. It was intermittently warming up for randomly-varying lengths of time. A really tricky problem, this is one you need to catch in the act to effectively troubleshoot. In fact, I had already been out on this one two days prior to this call for the same complaint and could not find the problem since both compartments were cooling just fine when I arrived. The second time she called back, I got right out and caught this tricky bugger in the act.
Having two things bad at the same time on any one appliance is rare but it does happen and you have to be thorough and persistent to root out all the evil-doers. In this case, both the ADC board and the compressor start relay were bad.
Fixing a No-Cool Problem in a GE Side-by-Side Refrigerator
In this problem, the complaint was that the fresh food compartment was warm. A quick check in the freezer revealed that the evaporator fan motor wasn't running. Rather than tear apart the freezer right away, it's much easier on these refrigerators with a muthaboard in back to just go around behind the unit and do some quick checks right at the muthaboard to see if its sending voltage to the fan.
This is a case, also, where the original minimanual supplied with the unit was AWOL (as in gone) and I was using the copy that I had pre-loaded onto my Kindle Fire just in case. Having been burned like this before, I now always try to load the tech sheet, Fast Track manual, or minimanual onto my Kindle Fire before I run a service call on a unit. So in this video, you'll see me using the schematic on my Kindle Fire.
The lesson on this one is to expect the unexpected and don't get so caught up in the schematic that you overlook the simple things, like loose or unplugged wire harness connectors!
What's It All Mean, Seymour?
Using the schematic diagrams to troubleshoot electrical problems in appliances is not optional unless it's a very simple circuit or there's something visually burnt or disconnected. Knowing how to use the schematic can take away the guess work when trying to figure out which part to replace. The most authoritative schematic to use is the one that's on the tech sheet that came with the appliance. It supersedes the schematics in the service manual because there may have been late production revisions on that model that aren't reflected in the service manual schematics.
But don't count on the tech sheet to still be there with the appliance when you need it! About a third of the time I go out on service calls, the tech sheet is missing; either it was stolen by the sleaze bag who worked on the unit before me or the customer removed it for "safe keeping"... and then lost it. So always try to have the tech sheet for the model you're working on pre-loaded on your Kindle Fire, iPad or whatever tablet you use for storing and carrying technical documents on service calls before you run the call.
If you're not using some type of tablet computer as an information tool, you're really shooting yourself in the foot. You can buy a Kindle Fire for a little as $160! If you can't afford that for a bidness information tool, then there's something wrong with how you're pricing your service and you need to start using the Appliance Blue Book.
And if you'd like to see more videos like the ones in this article, subscribe to my YouTube channel! I'm usually filming these while literally single-handedly whuppin' up on some appliance bootay, so what they lack in production value they make up with edge-of-your seat excitement of live appliance repair action!
Looking for Appliance Parts? Enter your model number, part number, or even a part description and find it here. 365-day return policy on all parts purchased here, even electrical parts that have been installed!