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Samurai Appliance Repair Man's Blog



How to replace the plastic condenser fan motor kit in an Amana-Kenmore refrigerator

Posted by Samurai Appliance Repair Man, in Refrigerator Repair 16 September 2011 · 1,368 views

This is kind of a funky little condenser fan motor kit to install and can be confusing, especially since the kit doesn't come with destructions.

Here's the condenser fan motor kit ==> http://www.repaircli...2002738/1256875

Just be sure to use wire ties to secure fan motor leads back away from fan motor blade. This will prevent leads from blocking condenser fan blade.

Master Willie offers some additional insight and analysis:

I've never had to do one of these but from all I can see in the pictures it does appear that the three metal arms screw to the new plastic motor. It looks like the flat end of the arms have a hole in that end and would screw directly onto the new motor like the old big A/C condenser fan motors, (maybe using the rubber bushings, do they have a metal insert inside the bushings so you can't tighten them down too hard? It doesn't really look like they do).


From the RepairClinic picture it doesn't look like it comes with screws so maybe the three screws that held the old motor mounting shroud on are used to hold the arms on the motor.

Then it would appear that the "L" shaped end of each arm should screw to the flat sheet metal plate that is still in the refrig compressor compartment, but as you say there are no screw holes in that end of the arm. The picture doesn't show that end of the mounting arms, is that end a flat the same width as the rest of the arm or are those "L" ends just a small metal tab on the end of each arm? if they are just a small tab maybe they just slide into the screw holes that held the plastic motor mounting shroud in place, (put them in first then screw the motor in place on the end of the arms).

Not obvious what the tie straps are for and if the "L" ends are tabs and just slide thru the original three screw holes, (they look to long to hold it tight against the metal mounting plate), then maybe the wire ties are used somehow to hold the motor and new brackets up solid against the sheet metal mounting plate.

EDITED TO ADD THE FOLLOWING WHICH I BELIEVE IS THE CORRECT MOUNTING.

The other possibility is the three arms mount direct to the new plastic motor and the three rubber bushings push into the flat sheet metal mounting plate, (it would appear they would be to big to fit the original holes so maybe you have to drill the old mounting screw holes out large enough to accept the rubber bushings and the "L" tab end of the brackets mount in the rubber bushings).

Found another model that uses the same fan shroud that had the old big A/C condenser motor and it mounts in the way described above and looking up the fan motor on another site shows that it does in-fact come with three screws to mount the arms onto the fan motor. It also appears that there maybe two sets of mounting holes in the fan shroud, three small ones for the screws to mount the plastic fan holder and three larger ones that accept the mounting grommets. Looks like the "L" tab end of the arms are just the right length to hold tight in the rubber mounting grommets so don't really know what the tie straps would be for.

See Amana model# XRBS209BWR (click the picture and you can see better detail of the two different size holes in the fan shroud, one for grommets the other for screws. Part ref#5 in this picture are the rubber mounting grommets.)

Posted Image


Source: kenmore 59652673202 Fridge


How to replace the water tank and tubing in a GE Arctica Refrigerator

Posted by Samurai Appliance Repair Man, in Refrigerator Repair 10 September 2011 · 2,655 views

Merit Apprentice toy4x4 shares his combat tips for emerging victorious from this repair:

Having found the thread on this topic in the archived forum, I wanted to reply but could not. Here is the original thread


http://applianceguru...rum1/28636.html

I had the same problem as discussed in the above thread, however I went down the path of replacing the actual tank and tubing. I would have gone the route of just splicing on a new tube but I ordered the tank with tubing. I searched around town for 5/16" polyethelyne tubing and 5/16" quick couplers and most places thought I was nuts using that size. For this reason I went ahead and ordered the tank and tubing thinking I would just replace the tank anyway because it had been years since the water in the tank had been circulated due to me just shutting off the ice and water. Stupid firdge messed up my wood floor twice with leaks. I recently figured out my issue in the house was a bad water pressure regulator, so I fixed it and decided to give the ice and water a shot again.

So to actually replace the tank and tubing, it is fairly simple. Below are the steps I took (+/1 one or two). Keep in mind I also had to replace the valve assembly so you should assume the it is out of the fridge and the 4 water tubes in the back are just hanging there. I also re-ordered my steps to the logical order so you can do it the "right' way

0. turn of your water line. Mine had been off for years...
1. Remove the front kick plate/vent cover at the bottom of the fridge. This is the black plastic cover.
2. Behind the cover, you will see a long 5/16" hose. Find the quick coupler that splices the long tank hose to the hose that goes into the door.
3. Press in the white collar and pull the hose out.
4. Remove the bottom three drawers in the fridge along with their "shelf"
5. The cover that goes over the top of the water tank you simple push up in the middle to remove it.
6. Remove the two screws from the tank
7. Pull the two hoses out through the rubber grommet
8. Take the tank and hoses outside and cut them up with a chop saw for fun
9. Insert the long and short hoses from the new tank through the grommet. You may have to work behind the fridge to help then go through
10 route the long hose back up to the front and push it into the quick disconnect.
11. Re-install the cover over the top of the tank
12. put the drawers back in
13. Install the valve assembly and tubing int the back
14. Enjoy water and ice again. (takes awhile to fill the tank up)

This really only took me 15-30 minutes. It's that simple.


Part link for the water tank ==> Water Tank Assembly


Source: Replace Water Tank and tubing - GE Artica PSI23SGMD - Part 2


How to fix an LG-Kenmore refrigerator where the light in the beer compartment stays on and melts

Posted by Samurai Appliance Repair Man, in Refrigerator Repair 09 September 2011 · 2,469 views

Masters john63 and Reg reveal a stealth recall campaign for this problem:



---an undocumented Service Campaign.
Some LG servicers are not aware of this as well.

:whistling:
some info for some models
CPSC, LG Electronics and Sears, Roebuck and Co. Announce Recall to Repair Refrigerators
(at least in) Canada: (maybe also USA)
"LG has committed to giving a lifetime warranty with regard to the light bulb defect
to the owners of affected LG and Kenmore refrigerators at no charge to the customer.
The warranty includes performing the necessary in-house repairs and possibly replacing the refrigerator in cases where
the plastic liner has warped to the point of being irreparable due to the increased heat generated by the light bulb."
LG AND KENMORE REFRIGERATOR ALERT: OVERHEATING LIGHT BULB



Source: 795.77569600 Sears by LG FF lites won't go out!


How to wire in a new compressor start relay on a Frigidaire refrigerator

Posted by Samurai Appliance Repair Man, in Refrigerator Repair 23 August 2011 · 1,905 views

Start relay part link ==> Posted Image


Your wires will come out of the original overload/relay/start pak but Frigidaire loves to put the little spade retainer locks on there spade clips. You can pull and tug all day long and they won't come out. You have to get a little tiny straight screwdriver, (jewelers screwdrivers), and slide it down in the little square cutout area next to each spade clip and push the little retaining clip while pulling on the wire and it will release and come right out.

You won't have to worry about doing this since the new relay/overload has a different connector, so just cut the old wires and slice the new connector onto the existing wires that you cut off the old overload/relay.





Source: Buzzing ending with a click on a Frigidaire side by side


How to fix a GE or Hotpoint SxS refrigerator water dispenser with a frozen water tube

Posted by Samurai Appliance Repair Man, in Dispenser Repair, Refrigerator Repair 23 August 2011 · 1,909 views

There is a heater kit "bandaid" fix available from GE to dress this issue...and yes it is freezing in the door, most likely right behind the cradle in the small recessed area.
you can use a hairdryer to warm this area and thaw it or I use a zoom spout oil bottle filled with hot water...the tube off the bottle is the perfect size to push down the dispenser tube and flush out the ice plug...reg will be along directly to link you the fix kit, I am sure...


No Water from the Dispenser on a GE Refrigerator


Source: Hotpoint SxS fridge, M# HSS22IFPACC






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