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How to replace the water tank and tubing in a GE Arctica Refrigerator

Posted by Samurai Appliance Repair Man , in Refrigerator Repair 10 September 2011 · 3,155 views

Merit Apprentice toy4x4 shares his combat tips for emerging victorious from this repair:

Having found the thread on this topic in the archived forum, I wanted to reply but could not. Here is the original thread


I had the same problem as discussed in the above thread, however I went down the path of replacing the actual tank and tubing. I would have gone the route of just splicing on a new tube but I ordered the tank with tubing. I searched around town for 5/16" polyethelyne tubing and 5/16" quick couplers and most places thought I was nuts using that size. For this reason I went ahead and ordered the tank and tubing thinking I would just replace the tank anyway because it had been years since the water in the tank had been circulated due to me just shutting off the ice and water. Stupid firdge messed up my wood floor twice with leaks. I recently figured out my issue in the house was a bad water pressure regulator, so I fixed it and decided to give the ice and water a shot again.

So to actually replace the tank and tubing, it is fairly simple. Below are the steps I took (+/1 one or two). Keep in mind I also had to replace the valve assembly so you should assume the it is out of the fridge and the 4 water tubes in the back are just hanging there. I also re-ordered my steps to the logical order so you can do it the "right' way

0. turn of your water line. Mine had been off for years...
1. Remove the front kick plate/vent cover at the bottom of the fridge. This is the black plastic cover.
2. Behind the cover, you will see a long 5/16" hose. Find the quick coupler that splices the long tank hose to the hose that goes into the door.
3. Press in the white collar and pull the hose out.
4. Remove the bottom three drawers in the fridge along with their "shelf"
5. The cover that goes over the top of the water tank you simple push up in the middle to remove it.
6. Remove the two screws from the tank
7. Pull the two hoses out through the rubber grommet
8. Take the tank and hoses outside and cut them up with a chop saw for fun
9. Insert the long and short hoses from the new tank through the grommet. You may have to work behind the fridge to help then go through
10 route the long hose back up to the front and push it into the quick disconnect.
11. Re-install the cover over the top of the tank
12. put the drawers back in
13. Install the valve assembly and tubing int the back
14. Enjoy water and ice again. (takes awhile to fill the tank up)

This really only took me 15-30 minutes. It's that simple.

Part link for the water tank ==> Water Tank Assembly

Source: Replace Water Tank and tubing - GE Artica PSI23SGMD - Part 2


How to fix an LG-Kenmore refrigerator where the light in the beer compartment stays on and melts

Posted by Samurai Appliance Repair Man , in Refrigerator Repair 09 September 2011 · 2,882 views

Masters john63 and Reg reveal a stealth recall campaign for this problem:

---an undocumented Service Campaign.
Some LG servicers are not aware of this as well.

some info for some models
CPSC, LG Electronics and Sears, Roebuck and Co. Announce Recall to Repair Refrigerators
(at least in) Canada: (maybe also USA)
"LG has committed to giving a lifetime warranty with regard to the light bulb defect
to the owners of affected LG and Kenmore refrigerators at no charge to the customer.
The warranty includes performing the necessary in-house repairs and possibly replacing the refrigerator in cases where
the plastic liner has warped to the point of being irreparable due to the increased heat generated by the light bulb."

Source: 795.77569600 Sears by LG FF lites won't go out!


How to wire in a new compressor start relay on a Frigidaire refrigerator

Posted by Samurai Appliance Repair Man , in Refrigerator Repair 23 August 2011 · 2,209 views

Start relay part link ==> Posted Image

Your wires will come out of the original overload/relay/start pak but Frigidaire loves to put the little spade retainer locks on there spade clips. You can pull and tug all day long and they won't come out. You have to get a little tiny straight screwdriver, (jewelers screwdrivers), and slide it down in the little square cutout area next to each spade clip and push the little retaining clip while pulling on the wire and it will release and come right out.

You won't have to worry about doing this since the new relay/overload has a different connector, so just cut the old wires and slice the new connector onto the existing wires that you cut off the old overload/relay.

Source: Buzzing ending with a click on a Frigidaire side by side


How to fix a GE or Hotpoint SxS refrigerator water dispenser with a frozen water tube

Posted by Samurai Appliance Repair Man , in Dispenser Repair, Refrigerator Repair 23 August 2011 · 2,224 views

There is a heater kit "bandaid" fix available from GE to dress this issue...and yes it is freezing in the door, most likely right behind the cradle in the small recessed area.
you can use a hairdryer to warm this area and thaw it or I use a zoom spout oil bottle filled with hot water...the tube off the bottle is the perfect size to push down the dispenser tube and flush out the ice plug...reg will be along directly to link you the fix kit, I am sure...

No Water from the Dispenser on a GE Refrigerator

Source: Hotpoint SxS fridge, M# HSS22IFPACC


How to replace the evaporator (freezer) fan in a GE Profile bottom-freezer refrigerator

Posted by Samurai Appliance Repair Man , in Refrigerator Repair 19 August 2011 · 3,221 views

Evaporator fan part link ==> Evaporator Fan Motor

Posted Image

I realized that I had not uploaded any pics. In case someone else should have the same problem.

Remove all the shelves/trays/baskets, including in the icemaker.

I had to remove the freezer door (the screws that go into the door itself, 5 on each side, although we have holes for 6 on each side.).

Then the icemaker wall or separator. Just lift at the bottom to pop out the tabs and slide the bottom to the right.

Then the two white bars that the separator's tabs were in.

Then the icemaker itself. And the screw in the back holding the left side of the evap fan cover to the back wall.

Remove the other vent cover beneath the evap fan cover. It is wide. Just pull from the center and slightly downward then pull it straigth toward yourself.
The bottom is held in with 3 tabs that catch only when it is bent into place.

Then the evap fan cover has one tab by the screw and two more tabs at the right. The two at the bottom of the evap fan cover go pretty much straight in so there is no maneuvering for those.

Then the screws behind the evap fan cover that help brace the fan itself.

Then you should be able to pop the back wall out, but look around in case I forgot someting.

Just remembered you might have to extend out the drawer rails on the right side of the freezer. They got in the way for me.

You'll see two white plastic screws coming out of and pointing up from the two vents BELOW the evap fan cover, one each vent. Don't touch those, they just help hold stuff (insulation) to the other side.

Once you remove the back wall, you can remove two more screws for the fan that hold it in and remove the plastic tie that holds several wires including the fan wires, in place (in the left upper corner)

The tie has a whole in it for screwing into the back wall and had no idea where to get another like it. So, I just used a small screwdriver to slide it out from itself and then reused it.

OK. Now replace your fan and do everything in reverse! (Oh! Joy!)

Part link ==> Evaporator Fan Motor

Source: GE Profile Refrigerator -- Model: PFSS5NJWASS - Part 2

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