Now go to the back of the fridge and open the metal cover to the muthaboard cubby and look at the software version to the left of the CPU; if it's less than 4.02, replace the muthaboard ==> Muthaboard Part Link
Source: GE Profile refrig Model PFSS6PKXASS--wont make ice and change water filter light on
These units are a pain in the neck to get to the defrost heater. To do so without breaking any of the plastic panels or the syrofoam divider block, you should turn the unit completely off for 24 hours with the doors open to let the unit completely defrost.
First, remove the freezer door.
Remove the middle hinge, remove all the screws in the divider between the freezer compartment and the refigerator compartment.
Gently pry the plastic divider (also known as the mullion strip) towards you.
Pull the floor of the freezer out (very gently) as these are known to crack.
Remove the styrofoam divider under the freezer floor.
You will find the glass tube defrost heater clipped under the evaporator with a couple clips.
Simply remove the clips noting their position on the evaporator and unplug and remove the glass tube defrost heater.
If either the defrost heater or the bi-metal are bad
it would be well worth the few extra bucks to replace them
both so you hopfully never have to go into the unit again.
Defrost bi-metal Link
Source: Montgomery Wards, Refrigerator HMG19274
The problem here is that ice would be left in the condensate drain pan after defrost (see below) which would build up to a solid chunk of ice.
Here's a clever, low-cost solution:
well I am back as prommised... great news....
well after 2.5 months I can say it is a fix indeed. I never lasted 6 weeks and the normal was 3 weeks.
so if you are giving up with all fixes because everything works like mine did but always froze up do this. do the soldering when the fridge is off. here are some pictures.
this one shows the ice left after a defrost cycle, this should not be there. It is a problem. you can see to the left it doid melt some ice, but there is still a section that is just going to keep building because it did not melt through a complete defrost cycle. I have higher resolution pictures at a link at the bottom of the post.
below is the 2.2 k ohm resistor in series. do it with power unplugged. just cut one yellow wire close to the connector and solder a 10 cent resistor in and tape it
here is a modification to the heat sink. I added some aluminum flashing to make contact on both heater bars to transfer heat to the lower part to melt the ice. make sure you have a curve contact on the bars for better contact area. not shown is I have a tapered small tab on that flashing that also goes into the drain hole to make sure the drain hole is kept from being frozen
I also added a heat sink to the left, it was not making good contact with the sheet metal, so I made a piece that made more contact and stopped it from being a hot spot. which could cause that area to burn out. they tried to do it all with the rivited points, that just is not a lot of contact area.
I bought the aluminum flashing at Ace hardware, but bet you can get small sheets at hobby shops.
here is a bending of the upper tabs to make better contact and allow the water to drop to the bottom during the defrost vs handing on after the defrost and freezing and adding humidity. i only did this on the top row. i did not bend the one on the left yet and you can see the water droplet right behind it.
here are higher resolution photos if you need them click below
Source: defrost failure samsung model RS2555SL
How to fix a Maytag side-by-side MZD2768GE refrigerator that's freezing food in the beer compartment
... IS THIS THE SAME PROBLEM AS GE AND THEIR DAMPER MOTORS?
Yes. There's a tech bulletin out on this. You need to replace the autodamper assembly.
One year warranty on the part and you can return it for a refund if it doesn't fix the problem.
Source: maytag side by side MZD2768GE FREEZING PRODUCT IN REFRIGERATOR SECTION
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