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How to get to and replace the defrost heater in a Montgomery Wards top-mount Refrigerator

Posted by Samurai Appliance Repair Man, in Refrigerator Repair 09 July 2011 · 768 views

These units are a pain in the neck to get to the defrost heater. To do so without breaking any of the plastic panels or the syrofoam divider block, you should turn the unit completely off for 24 hours with the doors open to let the unit completely defrost.

First, remove the freezer door.

Remove the middle hinge, remove all the screws in the divider between the freezer compartment and the refigerator compartment.

Gently pry the plastic divider (also known as the mullion strip) towards you.

Pull the floor of the freezer out (very gently) as these are known to crack.

Remove the styrofoam divider under the freezer floor.

You will find the glass tube defrost heater clipped under the evaporator with a couple clips.

Simply remove the clips noting their position on the evaporator and unplug and remove the glass tube defrost heater.

Good Luck!



If either the defrost heater or the bi-metal are bad
it would be well worth the few extra bucks to replace them
both so you hopfully never have to go into the unit again.

Heater Link

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Defrost bi-metal Link

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Timer Link

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Source: Montgomery Wards, Refrigerator HMG19274


How to fix a Samsung dual-evaporator refrigerator where the beer compartment keeps icing up

Posted by Samurai Appliance Repair Man, in Refrigerator Repair 02 July 2011 · 3,900 views

This fix is for the Samsung-built refrigerators (includes some GE's) with two evaporator coils: one in the freezer compartment and a second one in the beer compartment (most refrigerators just have a single evaporator coil in the freezer compartment).

The problem here is that ice would be left in the condensate drain pan after defrost (see below) which would build up to a solid chunk of ice.

Here's a clever, low-cost solution:

well I am back as prommised... great news....

well after 2.5 months I can say it is a fix indeed. I never lasted 6 weeks and the normal was 3 weeks.

so if you are giving up with all fixes because everything works like mine did but always froze up do this. do the soldering when the fridge is off. here are some pictures.

this one shows the ice left after a defrost cycle, this should not be there. It is a problem. you can see to the left it doid melt some ice, but there is still a section that is just going to keep building because it did not melt through a complete defrost cycle. I have higher resolution pictures at a link at the bottom of the post.
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below is the 2.2 k ohm resistor in series. do it with power unplugged. just cut one yellow wire close to the connector and solder a 10 cent resistor in and tape it
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here is a modification to the heat sink. I added some aluminum flashing to make contact on both heater bars to transfer heat to the lower part to melt the ice. make sure you have a curve contact on the bars for better contact area. not shown is I have a tapered small tab on that flashing that also goes into the drain hole to make sure the drain hole is kept from being frozen

I also added a heat sink to the left, it was not making good contact with the sheet metal, so I made a piece that made more contact and stopped it from being a hot spot. which could cause that area to burn out. they tried to do it all with the rivited points, that just is not a lot of contact area.

I bought the aluminum flashing at Ace hardware, but bet you can get small sheets at hobby shops.

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here is a bending of the upper tabs to make better contact and allow the water to drop to the bottom during the defrost vs handing on after the defrost and freezing and adding humidity. i only did this on the top row. i did not bend the one on the left yet and you can see the water droplet right behind it.

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here are higher resolution photos if you need them click below
fridge





Source: defrost failure samsung model RS2555SL


How to fix a Maytag side-by-side MZD2768GE refrigerator that's freezing food in the beer compartment

Posted by Samurai Appliance Repair Man, in Refrigerator Repair 24 June 2011 · 933 views

... IS THIS THE SAME PROBLEM AS GE AND THEIR DAMPER MOTORS?



Yes. There's a tech bulletin out on this. You need to replace the autodamper assembly.

One year warranty on the part and you can return it for a refund if it doesn't fix the problem.


Source: maytag side by side MZD2768GE FREEZING PRODUCT IN REFRIGERATOR SECTION



How to replace the defrost heater in a Samsung refrigerator

Posted by Samurai Appliance Repair Man, in Refrigerator Repair 23 June 2011 · 6,418 views

This is the kind where the engineers were smokin' some goot sheet and decided to make the defrost heater and integral part of the evaporator coil, I guess under the delusion that the heater would never burn out. I gotta git me some o' dat! Anyway, the replacement procedure is a bit more involved that in most other refrigerators. Now, for the first time ever in the Universe, Sublime Master of Appliantology Certified Tech Group 51 reveals his patented technique.

A few extra tips........
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...bend the tabs a bit...

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....grind the offending rivets off from both the old and new heaters...

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.......
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..the wire will need to be rerouted, I just removed the pin from the connector,
did not want to cut and reconnect the wire..
I got more pics. if'n you gets stuck :wacko: .....keep us posted...
.





Source: Samsung Ref Model #RS265LABP


How to enter service test mode in a Maytag refrigerator with electronic controls

Posted by Samurai Appliance Repair Man, in Refrigerator Repair 23 June 2011 · 2,264 views

Service Test Mode:
The service test functions are performed using the refrigerator display and keypad.
Enter the Service Test Mode by performing the following sequence of events.
1. Open the Fresh Food door and press and hold the Door Alarm keypad DoorAlarm .
2. Press and hold Refrigerator Temperature UP keypad .
3. Release the Door Alarm Keypad DoorAlarm and wait 3 seconds.
4. Press the Refrigerator UP Keypad again.
5. Display will show 001 in left display and numeric or dashes in right display.
6. Press Freezer Up keypad and Freezer Down keypad to toggle through Service Test numbers.

Service Test – 101 Defrost Heater & Defrost Circuit
• Press the Refrigerator Up keypad and Refrigerator Down keypad to energize or de-energize the Defrost circuit.
The display will read OFF when de-energized OP when energized with open defrost thermostat and CL when energized with closed defrost thermostat.

Service Test – 102 Compressor / Condenser Fan
• Press the Refrigerator Up keypad and Refrigerator Down keypad to toggle Compressor/Condenser fan On and Off.





Source: Maytag mfd2561hes fridge and freezer not cooling and compress fan not running






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