Jump to content


Use this Search Box to Find Appliance Repair Help Now
Need help finding your model number?
365-day return policy on all parts purchased here, even electrical parts that have been installed!


FAQs | Store | Memberships | Repair Videos | Boot Camp | Newsletter | Beer Fund | Contact


Welcome to Appliantology.org, the Web's Premiere Appliance Repair Resource for DIYers!

The world-famous Samurai Appliance Repair Forums


You can post a question and get repair help for FREE! Click here to get started.


Already a member of the Appliantology Academy? Just sign in with your username and password in the upper right-hand corner of the screen.

 


Samurai Appliance Repair Man's Blog



Old Skool washing machine motors: a quick, simple explanation of how they work

Posted by Samurai Appliance Repair Man, in Washing Machine Repair 12 August 2013 · 1,274 views
motor, electric motor and 2 more...
The Old Skool washing machine motors that we all know and love are the big, honkin', clunky motors in all the older model top loading washing machines. They are controlled with simple mechanical timers and switches. Depending on which contacts are made on the timer, the direction of rotation can be controlled. In order to have different speeds, the motor has to have different windings physically built into it at the time of manufacture and then the timer or selector switch can energize these different windings.

It was all pretty crude technology and but it was rugged, simple, and easy to troubleshoot. And it all worked great for a long time until the Energy Star requirements came along and mandated lower energy use in washing machines and other appliances. Nowadays, the new front-loaders and the new high-efficiency top-loaders all use variable speed motors that require a special (and often expensive) phase control board. These types of motor arrangements are often called "variable-frequency drives" or "inverter drives." Wikipedia has a pretty good primer on this technology if you want to read more about it.

Anyway, back to the Old Skool motors. Why do we still care about these? Because there are still lots of them out there so any competent Appliantologist has to have a working understanding of both types of motor drives. Like the saying goes, "You can't figure out what's wrong if you don't know what 'right' is." IOW, how you have to understand how they're supposed to work so you can troubleshoot them when they're not working. Brother fairbank56 gives us a good, concise explanation of how these Old Skool motors operate...


For anyone interested in the theory. The motor in question is a single phase squirrel cage induction motor. A rotating magnetic field is required to get the rotor rotating. Single phase power does not provide this so we add another winding, the start winding. The way it is wound (number of turns and wire size) in conjunction with the series capacitor provides a phase shift in the current applied to it with respect to the current applied to the run winding. This creates a rotating magnetic field. Once the rotor is rotating, it creates its own rotating magnetic field and the start winding is no longer required and is switched out of circuit. On this particular motor, the start winding and capacitor are not designed for continuous power and will be damaged if not switched out of circuit after the motor starts or if it doesn't start. Starting direction of rotation is determined by the polarity of current through one winding with respect to the other winding. Reversing polarity of either winding will cause direction of rotation to reverse.

Eric



Source: Amana won't agitate in Regular Cycles


Accessing test mode and stored error codes in a Bosch WFMC6400 washer

Posted by Samurai Appliance Repair Man, in Washing Machine Repair 09 August 2013 · 1,594 views
Bosch, washer, WFMC, error codes
Brother PDUff calls the key dance steps:

To access test program:

1) Rotate cycle selector knob to Off position.

2) To enter test program, push and hold Menu and Select buttons at the same time, then rotate cycle selector knob CCW to Permanent Press Cold position. Hold Menu and Select buttons until P1:Errors shows in display.

3) To select test, push Menu button to scroll through tests until desired test shows in display (P1 - P17). The Start/Pause light will flash.

4) Select test P1 for fault recall and push the Start/Pause button while it is flashing. The display will show fault code and when fault occurred on in the last 8 washes.
Control module faults Er:01-24. Motor control faults dr:01-18.

5) To end test, push Spin selection button.

6) To exit test program, rotate cycle selector knob to Off.



Source: Bosch Washer - WFMC6400UC/01 - Door Locks Thats it


LG WM3677HW Combo Washer/dryer - washes okay but doesn't dry

Posted by Samurai Appliance Repair Man, in Dryer Repair, Washing Machine Repair 07 August 2013 · 1,359 views
LG, washer-dryer, combo
One common problem with these combo laundry units is that they'll stop drying the clothes. The dryer portion of the combo unit is a condenser type dryer. It works on the principal that water condenses on a cool surface, similar to moisture collecting on a cold drink on a hot and humid summer day. A fan circulates air through the warming duct, drum, and condenser and over and over. The air is warmed because warmer air holds more moisture than cooler air and the heat causes more of the water to be evaporated form the laundry. The warm, moist air is directed through the condensing duct, which is cooled by a spray of cold water. This difference in temperature causes the moisture to precipitate in the condenser, where it and the cooling water are exhausted by the drain pump. The air, now dry, is passed over the warming element and through the laundry again as the process repeats itself. Because the air is recycled instead of exhausted, a vent and lint filter are not necessary for this type dryer.

If you don't work on a lot of these units, they can be strange and mysterious beasts, even leading some techs to go insane on blind, parts-changing rampages in a vain attempt to fix a no-drying complaint.

Brethren, let us unbunch our panties and unfurl our brows while Brother john63, Dean of LG Laundry Appliantology, reveals to us the solution which, like most technical solutions, is stunningly simple once you hear it, yet ever elusive to the uninitiated:

Plan of attack as follows...

1) Remove the DUCT from the tub. Pay particular attention to the area of the duct---where it connects
to the bottom of the tub. Clean the duct system thoroughly.

2) Replace the DRAIN MOTOR (4681EA2001T)

3) Verify that the COLD WATER VALVE ASSY is the ***correct*** one. If not---replace it (5220FR2008E)

Repeat the above steps---every 3 years.

Laundry can be loaded into the tub---3/4s full.

When the laundry becomes wet during the *wash* cycle---the laundry will *sag* within the tub---to approximately 1/2 or less of the tub opening.

This will permit faster drying---than an overloaded combo unit.



Source: LG Combo Washer/dryer not drying


Understanding and repairing the F35 and SUD error code combo in Whirlpool Duet front load washers

Posted by Samurai Appliance Repair Man, in Washing Machine Repair 21 June 2013 · 3,497 views
whirlpool, duet, front load, f35 and 3 more...
The infamous F35 and SUD error code combo is one of the more common and confusing errors in Whirlpool-built Duet washer (also sold under the Kenmore label). The tech sheet is misleading and no help on this issue and has confused many a fine appliantologist locked in combat with this beast:

Analog Pressure Sensor Failure
If this failure is displayed, there is any malfunction of the steamer component detected by the Steamer Electronic Board.
Possible Causes/Procedures
1. Check if pressure hose is fixed correctly
2. Check if air trap is not blocked
3. Check if hose not blocked


Here's a typical tech sheet for these machines: http://appliantology...0t-tech-bundle/

Brother Willie shines the light of wisdom on what's really going on with the infamous F35-SUD combo:

Don't get side tracked with the main control unit. A F35 error is almost always the Analog Pressure Sensor.

Unplugging the pressure hose and it still not working doesn't by no means mean the problem is the CCU. If you just remove the pressure hose and it works that would till you that it had something to do with a blockage in the air dome or pressure hose.

The problem is something goes wrong in the APS and it constantly thinks there is a SUDS issue.

DO NOT blow into the APS, the pressure transducer is a somewhat delicate electronic pressure sensor that is only designed for very low pressures and if it isn't already bad blowing into very well could damage it.


Here's the correct manufactures part#W10415587 and RepairClinic link:
http://www.repaircli...0415587/1938628

Posted Image



A couple of years ago it seems there was a period that these were on backorder every where because of some manufacture problem and I'm wondering if maybe it was with the original manufacture for the pressure transducer because when looking up the numbers on the pressure transducer I couldn't find anything with the original manufacture number and seems now the only company making a lot of these pressure transducers is a company named FreeScale.

The original pressure transducer had what I think is a manufacture symbol of "EN" then
SPV5004G and a date code of K0?22 - the ? is a number that got scratched off when I pulled the computer chip board out of the plastic housing.

Here's the link to the pressure transducer on these APS If anyone is interested in learning a little about these units.
http://parts.arrow.c...or/mpxv5004gc6u

There are a bunch of surface mount resistors, a few triacs/transistors and capacitors then two other main larger IC chips, one being an actual micro-controller processor that takes the analog voltage signal that the pressure transducer outputs and turns it into a digital signal and communicates with the main CCU so it can detect very small changes in water level as a digital number that the computer can work with. The other larger IC chip I haven't been able to track down what it is yet, couldn't find any kind of reference to it, markings look like this:
A large "F" in leaning script which is a manufactures symbol then after that VG3AB
LMV
358 or (Maybe 368)

The micro-controller processor is made by ATMEL,
TINY13
20SU

The pressure transducer on the small board should be somewhat simple to check if it is working since it is a somewhat simple pin out on the chip, it has eight legs coming out of the chip but only three of them actually have any function the rest are only board mounting points. Pin out 1 - is the corner that is notched and the pin has a small notch in it.
Pin 1 - Not used
Pin 2 - Vs - Supply Voltage (normally 5 vDC, max of 5.25 vDC)
Pin 3 - Grn - Ground
Pin 4 - Vout - Signal voltage output depending on pressure (1.0-5.0 vDc with a 5 vDC input)

My suspicion from the research I've done on these is the pressure transducer fails and the base out put voltage that should probably be right around 1.0 vDC with no water/ no pressure on the transducer shifts so it always sees SUDS.

The sequence of event you see when you get a SUDS error is for the unit to fill with something like 4 liters of water then sit for 4 or 5 minutes, (I forget - but on the SUDS error on the tech sheet it tell you this), to try and kill the SUDS then it drains and if it still sees the SUDS it goes to the F35 hard fail and locks up and sometimes only way to reset is to unplug machine to reset to unlock door.

There are two different part numbers for the APS and I believe they can be interchanged but you may have to cut one of the keys off the wire connector that plugs into the APS if you don't get the correct one. A while back when they were all on back order that was what people where having to do. The other APS can be found quite a lot cheaper than this one but I haven't determined for sure if they are interchange yet or not, they all use the same pressure transducer put the micro-processor actually has, I believe, an eprom memory and is actually programmed with assembly or c coding and it maybe different - possibly different size tubs or something to do with the one for the steamer or non-steamer models. So far the only two I've had to replace have been on steamer models so I don't know if they use the APS on non-steamer models.



Source: Kenmore FL Washer 110.46757801


Maytag Performa washer thrust bearing re-assembly order

Posted by Samurai Appliance Repair Man, in Washing Machine Repair 20 June 2013 · 1,024 views
Maytag, Performa, thrust bearing and 1 more...
If you ever have to replace the thrust bearing, basket drive hub, or snubber in one of these Maytag Performa top-loading washers, you may get the washers and spacers that comprise the thrust bearing out of order. Brother fairbank56 has put together this nifty roadmap showing the proper sequence for re-assembling the thrust bearing.

Posted Image




If you boogar up or lose these parts, you can buy the replacement kit here: http://www.repaircli...2002213/1042142

Posted Image






Like - Plus - Connect - View

Facebook-icon50x50.png google-plus-icon-50x50.png YouTube-icon50x50.png

Find Parts & Diagrams Here

Looking for Appliance Parts? Enter your model number, part number, or even a part description and find it here. 365-day return policy on all parts purchased here, even electrical parts that have been installed!

Search My Blog

Latest Visitors

Random Album Image

Figure 4

9 user(s) viewing

0 members, 9 guests, 0 anonymous users


FAQs | Store | Memberships | Repair Videos | Boot Camp | Newsletter | Beer Fund | Contact


Use the Appliantology Parts Finder to Get What You Need!
Enter a model number, part number, type of appliance, brand, or even a part description.
365-day return policy on all parts purchased here, even electrical parts that have been installed!

Your Sometimes-Lucid Host:
Samurai Appliance Repair Man
"If I can't help you fix your appliance and make you 100% satisfied, I will come to your home and slice open my belly,
spilling my steaming entrails onto your floor."

The Appliance Guru | AppliancePartsResource.com | Samurai's Blog

Real Time Analytics