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How to remove the front panel on a Whirlpool Duet Sport washer

Posted by Samurai Appliance Repair Man, in Washing Machine Repair 18 May 2011 · 3,874 views

For service manuals and lots of other goodies,
become an Apprentice==> http://appliantology.org/apprentice/


from the Whirlpool Duet Service Manual:

Removing the washer front panel will require that the door switch be removed
and the boot be separated completely from the front panel opening.
The console must also be removed.

Access to these components requires that the top of the washer be removed.

Removing the Washer Top
Three screws secure the washer top at the back of the washer.
Remove the three screws and lift the top from the washer. (Fig. 4-4)

Removing the Console from the Cabinet
Disconnect the Touch Pad/LED Assembly ribbon connector from the left side of the Central Control Unit (Fig. 4-5)
and release it from the wiring harness brackets on the right side of the washer top.
Remove the detergent dispenser drawer by pressing down on the release tab at the back of the drawer (Fig. 4- 6A)
and pulling it completely out of the washer

Once the drawer is removed, remove the screw in the recessed hole next to the drawer opening.
Release the tab securing the right side of the console to the washer (Fig. 4-6B).

Open the washer door and place a flat-bladed screwdriver into the slot in the bottom center of the console (Fig. 4-6C).
Push the console up to release center console tab.
Be sure the ribbon cable clears the cabinet frame.

Removing the Touch Pad/LED Assembly from the Console
The Touch Pad/LED Assembly is removed as a single unit and contains the Push Buttons, LEDs, cable, etc. (Fig. 4-7A)
The buttons can be replaced separately as shown in Fig. 4-7B.

The washer door can be removed by removing the upper left shield cover and hinge cover.
Open the door and remove three screws securing the door hinge to the washer front and lifting upward.
Access to the door switch requires that the water seal boot be removed from the front of the washer. (Fig. 4-11)
Use a flat bladed screwdriver at the location of the retainer spring and pull the retainer forward
and then off the perimeter of the boot.
Ease the edge of the boot off of the lip of the washer front near the door switch. (Fig. 4-12)
Remove enough of the boot to gain access to the door switch behind the washer front panel.
The door switch is secured to the washer front panel with three screws.
Once these screws are removed, the door switch will remain in place until
it is lifted slightly and pulled back from the washer front panel

Next, remove the three screws securing the toe panel to the front of the washer (Fig. 4-14)
and remove the toe panel by lifting slightly and pulling forward.

Remove the two screws securing the bottom of the front panel to the washer,
and the two screws securing the top of the front panel to the washer.

The front panel can now be removed from the washer. (Fig. 4-15) :whistling:







Source: Whirlpool Duet Sport Ht WFW9400SW01


How to remove the door and door glass from a Maytag Neptune MAH8700AWW washer

Posted by Samurai Appliance Repair Man, in Washing Machine Repair 18 May 2011 · 1,212 views

(Hinge remains on Washer)
Remove hinge retainer plate from Door
Remove door from hinge posts.
Remove Screws around the perimeter of the glass retainer.
Remove the glass retainer.
Remove glass.
Remove external viewing window





Source: Maytag neptune MAH8700AWW - Need help replacing door


How to replace a ripped door boot seal on a Whirlpool WFW9600TW01 steam washer

Posted by Samurai Appliance Repair Man, in Washing Machine Repair 17 May 2011 · 1,736 views

You shouldn't need a manual to replace that door boot.

It is held in place by two wire 'bands'. The one on the outside edge is spring loaded. To remove it, all you do is grip the loop on the end of the spring with a pair of needle nose pliers (or a small flatblade screwdriver works too) and stretch the spring out and over the lip.

The inner band will either be a flat band that is sort of like a big over sized worm-gear clamp, or it will be a wire clamp like on the front edge except it is tightened with a screw. Which ever kind it is, loosen it up and slide it over the lip edge and pull it out. You can now remove the old boot.

The new boot will have a top and a bottom - make sure you have the arrow or notch at the top and the drain holes at the bottom. Fit the inner lip first by working it around pushing the rubber edge of the boot over the plastic lip of the outer liner. Once it is on all the way around you will be able to slide your hand all the way around and it will feel smooth and even. Then flip the inside of the boot inside the tub (making it inside out) to make it easier to work on the outer band. Work the outer band on all the way around making sure that it is over the lip and in the groove - and then tighten the clamp/screw. Make sure it is good and tight. I use a little ratchet to do this - others reach in from on top with a screwdriver - either way, just make sure it is good a tight or you'll be moping up a flood.

Then flip the inside of the boot back into shape and fit it around the lip on the outer frame. Once it is all in place and smooth, you can replace the outer band. There are different ways of doing this, but I just use my hands - grip the band on either side of the spring. Hook the top of the band over the top edge and fit it around the sides as far as you can. Then stretch the spring out by separating your hands ... at the same time pulling it down over the bottom lip. I can do it in one try pretty much every time now, but it took a bit of practice. Don't be surprised if this takes a couple of tries.

Done ... crack a cold one and enjoy your washer.





Source: Whirlpool WFW9600TW01 Washer Door boot seal replacement


Fisher Paykel GWL11 washer: starts pumping out before full

Posted by Samurai Appliance Repair Man, in Washing Machine Repair 13 May 2011 · 947 views

Regarding the pump out during fill when a cycle is started from the get-go ... you have either a bad diverter valve, or it's not connected properly after the son disassembled/reassembled the machine. The valve controls which direction water flows when the pump runs -- either out the drain hose (diverter off) or back into the tub through the recirculation port at upper right/rear of the tub cover (diverter on).

All cycles except Perm Press start with what F&P calls EcoActive wash. A small amount of water (at the selected temperature) is run in to saturate the clothes and dissolve the detergent. The diverter valve is activated and the pump turns on to shower the concentrated detergent solution over the clothes for 3 to 5 mins (while the basket rotates at 25 RPM). A bit more water may fill to top-off the required level for keeping the pump primed. After the recirculation period, the machine fills rest of the way (to either an auto-sensed water level or a manual-selected water level) with COLD water for an agitated wash.

Your diverter is not functioning, thus when the pump turns on for EcoActive recirculation, water drains instead of recirculates.

As per your 4th paragraph above, if a cycle is started with the tub already filled beyond the very low EcoActive water level, it'll skip that function and go on to the agitated wash. Perm Press also skips EcoActive by design, goes directly to the agitated wash.

The diverter valve can be operated in Diagnostic mode via the Delicate cycle button (this info is not on the Tech Sheet you may have found in the console). The diverter is a wax motor, takes a couple mins or so to shift into recirculate when activated, 3 mins or so to shift back to drain when deactivated. There's no indication on the console when it shifts, you just have to turn the diverter on or off and wait the requisite time before turning the pump on.
Delicate (diverter) On + Regular (pump) On = recirculation
Delicate Off + Pump On = drain


Source: Fisher Paykel GWL11 washer: starts pumping out before full


Frigidaire FWT445GES2 washer will not spin, step-by-step testing procedure

Posted by Samurai Appliance Repair Man, in Washing Machine Repair 13 May 2011 · 1,552 views

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1. Advance the timer knob to the drain increment.
If the drain pu'mp does not run, check safety circuit.
If the drain pump runs go to step 2.

2. Turn the water off to the washer.
Remove electrical power from the washer and remove the back panel.
Remove the motor drive belt.
Reconnect electrical power and set the timer to the start of the regular wash cycle and pull the knob out.
If the motor runs check for a poor connection in the timer line switch or door lock switch.
If motor does not run go to step 3.

3. Remove the four pin plug from the speed control unit.
Measure the voltage drop between pins 2 and 4.
If the meter reads 0v, check the motor thermal cut out.
If the meter reads 120vAC go to step 4.

4. Remove the nine pin plug to the speed control unit.
Measure the voltage drop between pin 6 of the nine pin plug and pin 4 of the four pin plug.
If the meter reads 0v, check timer contact 11 to 11a.
If the meter reads 120vAC go to step 5.

5. Measure the voltage drop between pin 3 of the nine pin plug and pin 4 of the four pin plug.
(Leave meter connected for more than 4 seconds)
If the meter reads 0v, check timer contact 24 to 24b.
If the meter reads 120vAC go to step 6.

6. Remove electrical power from the washer.
With an ohmmeter check the resistance between pins 1 & 3 of the four pin plug.
If the meter reads about 6 ohms replace the speed control board.

older style Frigidaire Gallery c.1997
Motor Controller
click on picture
Posted Image
For service manuals and lots of other goodies,
become an Apprentice==> http://appliantology.org/apprentice/


Source: Frigidaire FWT445GES2 washer will not spin






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