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LG WM3677HW Combo Washer/dryer - washes okay but doesn't dry

Posted by Samurai Appliance Repair Man, in Dryer Repair, Washing Machine Repair 07 August 2013 · 1,754 views
LG, washer-dryer, combo
One common problem with these combo laundry units is that they'll stop drying the clothes. The dryer portion of the combo unit is a condenser type dryer. It works on the principal that water condenses on a cool surface, similar to moisture collecting on a cold drink on a hot and humid summer day. A fan circulates air through the warming duct, drum, and condenser and over and over. The air is warmed because warmer air holds more moisture than cooler air and the heat causes more of the water to be evaporated form the laundry. The warm, moist air is directed through the condensing duct, which is cooled by a spray of cold water. This difference in temperature causes the moisture to precipitate in the condenser, where it and the cooling water are exhausted by the drain pump. The air, now dry, is passed over the warming element and through the laundry again as the process repeats itself. Because the air is recycled instead of exhausted, a vent and lint filter are not necessary for this type dryer.

If you don't work on a lot of these units, they can be strange and mysterious beasts, even leading some techs to go insane on blind, parts-changing rampages in a vain attempt to fix a no-drying complaint.

Brethren, let us unbunch our panties and unfurl our brows while Brother john63, Dean of LG Laundry Appliantology, reveals to us the solution which, like most technical solutions, is stunningly simple once you hear it, yet ever elusive to the uninitiated:

Plan of attack as follows...

1) Remove the DUCT from the tub. Pay particular attention to the area of the duct---where it connects
to the bottom of the tub. Clean the duct system thoroughly.

2) Replace the DRAIN MOTOR (4681EA2001T)

3) Verify that the COLD WATER VALVE ASSY is the ***correct*** one. If not---replace it (5220FR2008E)

Repeat the above steps---every 3 years.

Laundry can be loaded into the tub---3/4s full.

When the laundry becomes wet during the *wash* cycle---the laundry will *sag* within the tub---to approximately 1/2 or less of the tub opening.

This will permit faster drying---than an overloaded combo unit.



Source: LG Combo Washer/dryer not drying


Understanding and repairing the F35 and SUD error code combo in Whirlpool Duet front load washers

Posted by Samurai Appliance Repair Man, in Washing Machine Repair 21 June 2013 · 10,008 views
whirlpool, duet, front load, f35 and 3 more...
The infamous F35 and SUD error code combo is one of the more common and confusing errors in Whirlpool-built Duet washer (also sold under the Kenmore label). The tech sheet is misleading and no help on this issue and has confused many a fine appliantologist locked in combat with this beast:

Analog Pressure Sensor Failure
If this failure is displayed, there is any malfunction of the steamer component detected by the Steamer Electronic Board.
Possible Causes/Procedures
1. Check if pressure hose is fixed correctly
2. Check if air trap is not blocked
3. Check if hose not blocked


Here's a typical tech sheet for these machines: http://appliantology...0t-tech-bundle/

Brother Willie shines the light of wisdom on what's really going on with the infamous F35-SUD combo:

Don't get side tracked with the main control unit. A F35 error is almost always the Analog Pressure Sensor.

Unplugging the pressure hose and it still not working doesn't by no means mean the problem is the CCU. If you just remove the pressure hose and it works that would till you that it had something to do with a blockage in the air dome or pressure hose.

The problem is something goes wrong in the APS and it constantly thinks there is a SUDS issue.

DO NOT blow into the APS, the pressure transducer is a somewhat delicate electronic pressure sensor that is only designed for very low pressures and if it isn't already bad blowing into very well could damage it.


Here's the correct manufactures part#W10415587 and RepairClinic link:
http://www.repaircli...0415587/1938628

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A couple of years ago it seems there was a period that these were on backorder every where because of some manufacture problem and I'm wondering if maybe it was with the original manufacture for the pressure transducer because when looking up the numbers on the pressure transducer I couldn't find anything with the original manufacture number and seems now the only company making a lot of these pressure transducers is a company named FreeScale.

The original pressure transducer had what I think is a manufacture symbol of "EN" then
SPV5004G and a date code of K0?22 - the ? is a number that got scratched off when I pulled the computer chip board out of the plastic housing.

Here's the link to the pressure transducer on these APS If anyone is interested in learning a little about these units.
http://parts.arrow.c...or/mpxv5004gc6u

There are a bunch of surface mount resistors, a few triacs/transistors and capacitors then two other main larger IC chips, one being an actual micro-controller processor that takes the analog voltage signal that the pressure transducer outputs and turns it into a digital signal and communicates with the main CCU so it can detect very small changes in water level as a digital number that the computer can work with. The other larger IC chip I haven't been able to track down what it is yet, couldn't find any kind of reference to it, markings look like this:
A large "F" in leaning script which is a manufactures symbol then after that VG3AB
LMV
358 or (Maybe 368)

The micro-controller processor is made by ATMEL,
TINY13
20SU

The pressure transducer on the small board should be somewhat simple to check if it is working since it is a somewhat simple pin out on the chip, it has eight legs coming out of the chip but only three of them actually have any function the rest are only board mounting points. Pin out 1 - is the corner that is notched and the pin has a small notch in it.
Pin 1 - Not used
Pin 2 - Vs - Supply Voltage (normally 5 vDC, max of 5.25 vDC)
Pin 3 - Grn - Ground
Pin 4 - Vout - Signal voltage output depending on pressure (1.0-5.0 vDc with a 5 vDC input)

My suspicion from the research I've done on these is the pressure transducer fails and the base out put voltage that should probably be right around 1.0 vDC with no water/ no pressure on the transducer shifts so it always sees SUDS.

The sequence of event you see when you get a SUDS error is for the unit to fill with something like 4 liters of water then sit for 4 or 5 minutes, (I forget - but on the SUDS error on the tech sheet it tell you this), to try and kill the SUDS then it drains and if it still sees the SUDS it goes to the F35 hard fail and locks up and sometimes only way to reset is to unplug machine to reset to unlock door.

There are two different part numbers for the APS and I believe they can be interchanged but you may have to cut one of the keys off the wire connector that plugs into the APS if you don't get the correct one. A while back when they were all on back order that was what people where having to do. The other APS can be found quite a lot cheaper than this one but I haven't determined for sure if they are interchange yet or not, they all use the same pressure transducer put the micro-processor actually has, I believe, an eprom memory and is actually programmed with assembly or c coding and it maybe different - possibly different size tubs or something to do with the one for the steamer or non-steamer models. So far the only two I've had to replace have been on steamer models so I don't know if they use the APS on non-steamer models.



Source: Kenmore FL Washer 110.46757801


Maytag Performa washer thrust bearing re-assembly order

Posted by Samurai Appliance Repair Man, in Washing Machine Repair 20 June 2013 · 1,877 views
Maytag, Performa, thrust bearing and 1 more...
If you ever have to replace the thrust bearing, basket drive hub, or snubber in one of these Maytag Performa top-loading washers, you may get the washers and spacers that comprise the thrust bearing out of order. Brother fairbank56 has put together this nifty roadmap showing the proper sequence for re-assembling the thrust bearing.

Posted Image




If you boogar up or lose these parts, you can buy the replacement kit here: http://www.repaircli...2002213/1042142

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GE front load washer "Smart" dispense pedestal problem

Posted by Samurai Appliance Repair Man, in Washing Machine Repair 07 June 2013 · 2,459 views
GE, washer, profile and 2 more...
If you ever run into one of these overly-"smart" GE front loaders with a "smart" dispense pedestal, Brother nickfixit offers these sage words of advice:

Run! Do not get involved! The design is so flawed you can not fix it so it stays working. You'll be replacing the pump assembly and cleaning ever inch of hose, every connector, and the tanks. Over and over and over......

We will not warranty or cover these with any service contract, it's a total looser with certain multiple unpaid recalls


Along with this tech bulletin from GE on this problem: http://appliantology...-tech-bulletin/



Source: GE SPBD880J0MV detergent dispensing pedestal


Replacing the drum bearings in an LG front-load washer

Posted by Samurai Appliance Repair Man, in Washing Machine Repair 02 June 2013 · 961 views
LG, washer, drum bearings
First, buy the replacment bearing for your LG washer here: http://www.repaircli...e-Bearing-Parts

Then install them using the guidance in this video:

http://appliantology...allation-video/






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