Samurai Appliance Repair Man's Blog

If you need to replace the recirculation hose (recirculates water inside the tub) in a Whirlpool Coll-apso washer, you'll be relieved to know that you don't have to remove the inner basket to do so.

This page from the service manual shows where the location of the recirc hose and explains its function:

http://appliantology...calypso-washer/

And Chief Master Appliantologist DADoESTX explains the technique:

The basket *does not* need to be removed. Raise the top, take off the tub ring. Release the tab on top of the recirc tube where it anchors to a slot at top of the outer tub, and pull the tube straight upwards to remove it. Press the replacement tube down into place on the connector nipple/nubbie at bottom of the tub, anchor the tab. Reassemble the tub ring and machine top.

Here's the part link to the replacement recirc hose ==> http://bit.ly/UfJxEu


Source: K/M 110.25066500 hose replacement

Got bad drum bearings in your LG washer and thinking about replacing 'em? Okay, Hoss, Professor john63 calls the dance steps on this little ditty:

You'll need:

REAR OUTER TUB ASSY (3045ER0048)
click on picture $ 140



INNER BASKET (3045ER1017A)
click on picture $ 195



TUB O-RING SEAL (4036ER4001B)
click on picture $ 6


And a Service Manual.
http://appliantology...-washer-wm2487/

Source: LG washer bearing replacement?

One word: Don't.

Beware of the "flood-safe" hoses, we see lots of them that don't allow any water into the washer.

Funny you should mention the 'flood-safe' hoses. I swapped out the hot one with a regular stainless hose and now all is good, except two trips and a new valve that i didn't need to purchase. Man, learning hurts sometimes.

Source: GE Top Load Washer WHRE5260E1WW , Hot Side Water Valve

You'll find these Frikkidaire top loaders either as stand-alone units or as part of a stack. If it's disguised as a Kenmore, it'll have a 417 prefix in the model number.

Okay, so you're working one of these cheesy washers and it's not draining. You check the obvious thing: the drain pump is clear, getting 120vac and running during the drain cycle but still no drain. What else could it be? Academy Fellow and Professor Emeritus of Laundry Appliantology nickfixit shares with us his hard-won pearls of wisdom for solving no-drain problems on this machine. Let us attend:

remove the hose attached to the bottom of the tub, look for something blocking the hose, or something blocking the tub outlet. if it's something big, you might need to pull the spin basket out.

some of these had a "duckbill" check valve inside the drain hose, usually just downstream of the molded elbow where the hose attaches to the pump. I have used a coathanger with the end bent into a little hook to push into the hose, hook the duckbill, pull it inside out, then rip that piece of crap out with needlenose pliers.

Source: KM (Frigidaire) laundry center 417.94802301 not pumping out

Y'all go grab a brewski and kick back while Professor jumtrout 'splains it to us...

Remove the cabinet.
Lay the machine on its back.
Remove the pump and motor.
Remove the drive coupling on the transmission.
Remove the motor mounting plate from the transmission.
Remove the seal as described below...

To remove the seal,I use a drywall screw.
Use your electric drill to run the screw in at the 2 o'clock position through the seal.
The screw will hit the gearing behind the seal and pull the seal out.
Use a 3/4 socket to seat the new seal.

And here's the part link for the oil seal kit you'll need ==> http://www.repaircli...l/285352/470681



The kit comes with two different seals so it can work with different Whirlpool-built D/D transmissions. Use the one that's made for your transmission. Match 'em up by sight.


Source: Kenmore 90 Series Washer 11020922990 Oil Leak