Y'all go grab a brewski and kick back while Professor jumtrout 'splains it to us...
Remove the cabinet. Lay the machine on its back. Remove the pump and motor. Remove the drive coupling on the transmission. Remove the motor mounting plate from the transmission. Remove the seal as described below...
To remove the seal,I use a drywall screw. Use your electric drill to run the screw in at the 2 o'clock position through the seal. The screw will hit the gearing behind the seal and pull the seal out. Use a 3/4 socket to seat the new seal.
Academy Fellow john63 shares with us his super secret kata for fixing a leaky door in an LG front loading washer:
<<<leaks from the bottom of the door and down the front outside of the machine>>>
Remove the Door Gasket Clamp.
Peel back the Door Gasket at/next to the Door Lock Assy.
Remove the stainless steel screws---from the.Door Lock Assy and press/push the Door Lock Assy out.
Re-install both stainless steel screws (but do not re-attach the Lock)
Add one flat washer (preferably stainless steel) to each screw.
Take the Door Lock Assy and bring it up to the 2 screws----re-install.
The flat washers will cause/make the Door Lock Assy to move inward towards the tub---and when the Locking Cam pulls the door to it's *locked* position---provides a tighter seal.
Greater than 90% of the time---this resolves the leak. If not---a new DOOR GASKET will be needed.
This type of leak---usually occurs on older LG washers that do NOT have the True Balance Feature---and is on a *wood* floor (shakes during spin cycle).
Clean the door at the 6 o'clock position---remove debris (hair/lint) that can accumulate at the bottom of the glass "bubble".
And Academy Fellow Willie shares a door leak fix with general application to all front loaders:
The cleaning of the hair build-up at the 6 o'clock position on the door glass and gasket is very important.
In the last couple months I've had two front loaders with this exact problem and it was just a case of a small bit of hair on the glass that makes a wick to let water dribble out during the complete cycle, (one was a Frigidaire and the other was a Whirlpool Duet).
The neutral drain in the Whirlpool direct-drive washer puts the transmission into neutral while the tub is draining. The purpose is to save wear and tear on the clutch, drive coupler, and motor. While it's function and operation are simple and easy to understand, it can still be confusing for folks.
Chief Master Appliantologist DADoESTX offers one of the simplest and clearest explanations of the neutral drain function that I've ever read:
Neutral drain is exactly that ... no agitation and no spin ... just the motor running to pump out the water.
The motor is reversible. Runs one direction for agitation, reverses for drain and spin.
The pump runs at all times, in whichever direction the motor is running. Agitate direction, it forces the water back into the tub outlet. Reverse (drain & spin) direction, the water pumps out of the tub and through the drain hose.
During agitation, the neutral drain mechanism (cams and pawls and latches and such) in the transmission presets so that when the motor next pauses briefly and restarts in the reverse direction, the tranny goes into neutral drain mode.
When drain is finished (one increment on the timer, 2 minutes), the motor pauses, the neutral drain latch mechanically releases, and the motor restarts in the same (reverse) direction to engage spin. Of course, draining also occurs to pump away the water extracted from the clothes.
The pause between agitate and drain is required both for the motor to coast to a stop before reversing, and for the neutral drain latch to engage.
The pause between drain and spin is required for the neutral drain latch to release.
The neutral drain parts in the transmission wear over time such that it may not preset during agitation, causing spin to begin immediately when the motor reverses.
Very early direct-drive machines (the first couple/three years) did not have the neutral drain feature. There was a pause between agitate and drain for the motor to coast to a stop, but spin (intentionally) started immediately upon the motor's reverse.
The shaft and mode shifter assembly is used on the GE "Hydrowave" line of top loading washers. These washers has the motor with the inverter board mounted on top of it. The inverter board has an LED that flashes on and off according to an error condition or standby that it's reporting. See the table below:
As you can see above, if the LED on the perverter board is flashes in a sequence of four flashes, this indicates a problem with the mode shifter circuit or mechanism. More info on accessing the motor perverter board in this post. For a detailed explanation of the mode shifter, what it does and how it works, see this post.
Excerpts from the GE service manual for this repair are on this page.
Here's a simplified video on how to do it:
And here are some worthy, enriching comments from a couple of Appliantological masters in the forums:
As the Samurai says this is not a bad job. I have done 5 or 6. I allow for about an hour to complete this job. A little longer if this is your first one.
After watching the video, a couple of points:
- I have never removed the Control Panel, Control Panel Bracket and Rear Panel. Although I can see that it would make it a little easier.
- For the Hub Nut, I bought a 1-11/16" three quarter inch drive socket and an 18" extension from Tractor Supply that was fairly inexpensive. That coupled with an electric impact wrench makes quick work of that hub nut. Also, TWICE I got a call that a tub was loose after a previous Tech had done a Mode Shifter. Both times I put that Impact onto the Hub Nut and that solved it.
- The Drive Pulley has never come off that easy for me. The way that was showed to me is to grab the pulley and lift up with one hand and strike the pulley near the shaft with a hammer and the pulley just pops off.
- MAKE SURE that you put all of the Wire Retainers back into their correct holes. This was a Mistake that I MADE and it cost me a Control Board. The wires moving back and forth from the action of the tub wore the coating off the wires, shorted to ground and took out the Control.
Piece o cake...I agree, about an hour...quicker if ya do a few. my tip, the belt on these is a bitch to get on...zip tie the belt to the big pulley to assist keeping it in place as you run it on...then cut it off, of course.
Has anyone ran into this problem before? The washer is level and the suspension is good yet the machine continually faults out of balance with loads of all sizes. When load is rearranged the problem persists. I ran it in service mode with no problems, no stored faults, not unusually wobbly. Any suggestions?
You need to replace all 4 of the suspension rods as a kit. Even though they look all right, they aren't.
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