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Source: GE Hydrawave Washer Motor Reset
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Had three service calls in the last two weeks on overflow/leak of detergent dispenser on front loader washing machines. Customers are putting capsules in dispenser rather than the tub. This causes, in some cases, incomplete desolving of capsule which leads to blockages and overflow. LG has a note/bulletin on the issue. Remains to be seen how the long-term "proper" use of these will effect sensors in the motor.
Todays topic MAH2400AWW
As usual a Maytag, even though they didn't build it, they brought this piece of fucking junk into the US. All you got to do to make something a worthless pile of steaming monkey dung is slap the Maytag name on it. Even the Whirlpool built Maytags suck big time, the Maytag badge is a curse apon the land.
I quess it's just asumed, by the "engineers", that an apartment sized front load washer would never have the dryer stacked on top and be shoved into a closet next to a water heater. And there isn't any way a coin could ever get into the pump. So I figure it was a great idea to have no front access panel or filter or coin trap. An even better idea was to put the pump as far from the rear access panel as possible. And kudos to the fucking shit head who made the pump mount screws go up through the base, that was a nice touch. The crowning achievement is the muderous sharp edges on every metal edge.
After suffering a two hour process to remove a quarter, I have this wish for everone involved with this machine being in my homeland..
"I want to bash you in the 'nads a 1000 times with an aluminum baseball bat until you cough up you own skull"
With a simple multimeter, you can do a basic static test of the capacitor. All this tells you is if the capacitor is shorted or not. Basically tells you if it's bad but not necessarily if it's good. You should first short the capacitor out with a screwdriver to make sure it doesn't have a charge on it that could damage your meter. Set the meter to read ohms and place the probes across the terminals. Initially, it will be a short circuit and read zero or very low ohms but it will quickly charge up so the reading should be increasing in ohms value. It's best to do this with an analog meter so that you can see the meter needle swing as it charges up rather than seeing a bunch of increasing numbers on the digital meter.
To get a better indication of the condition of the capacitor, many multimeters have a capacitor check function that will read the value of the capacitor. Something that just an ohmmeter cannot do. Here, I am showing this type of meter reading a capacitor from a GE machine. It is showing 47.39 microfarads which is within tolerance of the 45 mf capacitor.
The problem with these static tests is that you are only using the low DC voltage of the meter to test the capacitor while in actual use, they will have 120vac across them. I have a piece of test equipment that will do full dynamic testing of capacitors that place full rated voltage across them and check for value, leakage, and ESR (resistance). This can find problems that a multimeter cannot. Most tech's don't have this type of equipment and really don't need it. If it doesn't look like it's been cooking, doesn't smell bad, isn't shorted (seems to charge ok with multimeter), it's probably ok. Best to just carry a couple spares to do a quick swap check anyway. You cannot bypass the capacitor as the motor needs it to start. You can however, disconnect the capacitor, apply power to the motor and quickly start it by hand to see if it functions. On Whirlpool motors, the capacitor is switched out of circuit anyway as soon as it gets going.
As far as the motor windings, overload and switch, you can do some basic ohmmeter tests. For the Whirlpool motors, you should read 4 to 7 ohms across the start winding (yellow and black wires), 3/4 to 2 ohms across the high speed windings (blue and white wires), 1 1/2 to 3 ohms across the low speed winding (white/violet and white wires), and 1 1/2 to 3 ohms across the extra low speed winding (white/orange and white wires). You can check the overload switch between the white/black and white wires which should read dead short (zero ohms). With the motor switch in place, you should read short (zero ohms) across the red terminal and black wire (start winding switch) as well as the same across the orange terminal and blue wire. You must remove the switch to further test the switch mechanism. With the switch removed, you should have open circuit between red terminal and black wire and open between orange terminal and blue wire and dead short between orange terminal and violet/white wire.
Power applied to a motor that won't rotate can be bad on the motor windings and capacitor. The capacitor is only meant to be in circuit for just a second or two til the motor gets up to speed. It is then switched out of circuit by the motor switch. If the motor won't rotate or the switch fails, the capacitor can quickly be destroyed.
Getting the spring on the tub end of the door boot can be a real fight. The little rubber inserts they send with the boot kit isn't much help. Yesterday I tried something that worked really well. If you're familiar with the Whirlpool built front loaders, you know they have 2 styles of pumps. The pump that has the 2 mounting screws that come up through the base panel has a rubber isolation pad. Start saving these pads.
If you take that pad and cut it in half, you will end up with one piece that looks like a wide short door stop. These pieces are perfect to wedge in between the door boot and the counterweight to hold that spring in place. I made 4 of them, and it was the easiest time I ever had getting that boot installed.
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