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Samurai Appliance Repair Man's Blog



How to Replace a Radiant Burner in a Jenn-Air Glass Electric Cooktop

Posted by Samurai Appliance Repair Man, in Oven-Range-Stove Repair 20 February 2013 · 298 views
Jenn-Air, jennair, cook-top and 1 more...

from the service manual:

Main Top Removal
1. Disconnect power to cooktop.
2 Remove cooktop from installation position and place face down on protected surface.
3. Remove screws securing main top to burner box bottom.
4. Remove screws securing control panel box and conduit mounting plate to burner box assembly.
5. Remove main top.
6. Reverse procedure to reassemble, verifying that cooktop frame is properly aligned.
NOTE: Make sure the pieces of insulation, located in the front left and right rear corners,
are put back in place.
Failure to do so could create excessive cabinet temperatures.
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Part link for the replacement burner ==> http://www.repaircli...mber=JEC0536ADB

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To learn more about your cooktop or to order parts, click here.


Source: JennAir Glass Cook Top Model# JEC0536ADB, Replacing Burner, How to Remove Top?


Orifice Size Code Markings for LG Gas Stove Burners

Posted by Samurai Appliance Repair Man, in Oven-Range-Stove Repair 15 January 2013 · 487 views
gas, stove, burners
The orifice hoods are the little brass hoods that screw down on the gas jet that supplied the stove burners in a gas stove.  Their purpose is to meter the correct amount of gas into the air-fule mixture that gets ignited at the burner ring.  The diameters of the orifice vary with the BTU rating of the burner and the type of fuel being burned.  Professor john63 provides us this handy listing of orifice metering hood size codes for LG gas cooktops and ranges:



Orifice size is determined by a letter stamped onto the orifice:

NATURAL GAS

LF:  C
LR:  D
RR:  G
RF:  H
CTR:  D
BROIL:  A
BAKE:  B

LP GAS

LF:  L
LR:  M
RR:  P
RF:  Q
CTR:  M
BROIL:  D
BAKE:  F




Source: LG Center Burners


Theory of Operation of Electrode Gas Flame Detection

Posted by Samurai Appliance Repair Man, in Oven-Range-Stove Repair 10 January 2013 · 388 views
gas, stove, burner, ignition and 2 more...
If you're working on a gas stove where the burners keep clicking even after the flame is established, you may be tempted to throw a new spark module at it and hope for the best. But you would probably be disappointed. Let's start the troubleshooting process with a fundamental understanding of how the spark module is supposed to detect that the burner has established a flame:

Come with me now on a wild romp through the theory of operation of electrode gas flame detection...

If you look closely at a finger of burner flame you will see that it is clearly made up of three separate elements: 1. Inner fuel rich cone 2. Ionized blue outer cone with current carrying capabilities and 3. Outer air rich mantle. When gas combined with air; burned energy is released in the form of heat and light. When the gas / air mixture is controlled, the outer blue cone will actually carry electrical current similar to a wire.

If we place a metal probe into this “Ionized Plume” and apply a voltage between it and the burner, current will flow. An important characteristic of a burner/flame/electrode assembly is its ability to mainly pass current in one direction. It behaves as a one way valve or rectifier.

Flame Rectification systems make use of this directional characteristic when detecting a good flame to distinguish it from leakage currents that can arise due to moisture contamination, soiled igniter tip, poorly grounded burner spreader ring / burner head, cracked igniter insulation or poor house ground.

An AC voltage is applied to the electrode from the spark module and the resultant current flow which is greater in one direction than the other, is electronically detected. This current is very small, about one microamp (one millionth of an amp).

The minimum recommended flame current measured under all likely conditions in an installation should be 1.0 microamps for re-igniters. When a burner flame is present the Ionized outer cone will be producing a small DC current. This current is known as Flame Current. The flame current has to be at a certain level to allow voltage from the spark module to flow efficiently.

The accurate placing of the electrode in the flame is important. This igniter tip needs to be perfectly located in the ionized outer blue cone to effectively send and then detect current flow.

To break it down further, the spark module acts as a simple capacitor. It saves voltage like a sponge until it can hold no more. It will save and release this voltage approximately 3 times per second. When the voltage is released it follows the spark wire until reaches the spark electrode tip. The built up voltage wants to leave the tip and move to the point of least resistance. In a healthy situation this will be the burner spreader ring. From the burner spreader ring the voltage flow will pass through the burner head, burner tube, chassis and to ground. An interruption of this current path will cause the spark system to misbehave, such as with the continuous clicking problem.



Source: G.E. ZGU36L6H4SS Cooktop


How to Change Out a Hidden Bake Element in Maytag Electric Range

Posted by Samurai Appliance Repair Man, in Oven-Range-Stove Repair 09 January 2013 · 345 views
maytag, oven, bake, element
There's a trick, of course (isn't there always a trick?).  And Grand Master Funk kdog calls the dance steps:

Haven't seen a snazzy new Maytag like that, but suspect it is just a rebreanded K/A W/P
This is the same 4 pass "hidden" bake element used in the others - you just spread the insulation out of the way and slide the element out the side from the metal strip


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Source: Changing a hidden bake element in Maytag MER7662WW1 Oven


Appliantology Newsletter: Keep Your Oven Cooking for Thanksgiving

newsletter
Appliantology Newsletter
Keep Your Oven Cooking for Thanksgiving
November 1, 2012
Presents
Running Your Oven's Self-Clean Could Mean Cold Turkey on Thanksgiving Day
Professional Appliantologists mark the seasons by the mix of service calls we get. We're just now coming out of refrigerator season and getting into the thick of oven season. Every year, in the few days leading up to Thanksgiving Day, I can always count on a ton of last-minute, panicked service calls.


"Why is that, Samurai?" you ask.


Well, I'll tell you. For some reason, people always wait until the last few days before Thanksgiving Day to run the self-clean feature on their oven. Some folks may be thinking the oven should be clean before they cook the communal turkey in it. Others may be anticipating the meddlesome mother-in-law oven inspection. The problem is not "why" you run the self-clean, but "when." Lemme explain…


During self-clean, the temperatures inside the oven cell can exceed 900F. This is very stressful on the oven's sensor, door lock assembly, and electronic control board. If anything is on the verge of breaking, it will usually happen during the self-clean cycle. This means that if you think you're going to run the self-clean cycle in your oven, don't wait until a few days before before Thanksgiving Day, when you'll need it to cook that big turkey for a house full of guests, do it now! Then, if something does break in the oven, you'll have time to get it repaired and won't end up in a last-minute panic trying to get your oven fixed.


According to Rob Marriott, National Technical Manager for Dacor, a manufacturer of high-end ranges and ovens, "If you're going to use the self-clean feature, use it a lot or don't use it at all." The reason for this is that the most common thing to fail in an oven during self-clean is the door lock assembly. On many modern ovens, the door lock assembly has a little motor that locks and unlocks the door. This motor is controlled by the oven's electronic control board (the control panel with the digital display). If this motor isn't used on a regular basis, the accumulated grease that collects in the motor during normal use will coagulate and harden during self-clean and bind the motor so that it can't unlock the door.


The oven temperature sensor is also stressed during self-clean and is the second-most common thing to fail during or after running the self-clean cycle. Less commonly, yet still prevalent, the oven's electronic control board can fail due the extra heat it receives during self-clean.


Personally, we never run the oven self-clean cycle at the Samurai's dojo. But, I understand there are lots of valid reasons why someone would want to, two of which I mentioned above. So, if you're planning on running the self-clean in your oven, here are some...
Handy Links In Case Something Goes Wrong
Post your question, get your answer at our DIY appliance repair forums, The Samurai Appliance Repair Academy:



Get parts FAST-- even overnight and Saturday delivery-- for any brand and model of oven with a one-year return policy. Just enter your model number in the search box at the top of the page at Appliantology.org.



This picture shows you the most common places to look on your oven or range to find the model number tag.:


Happy Thanksgiving!
... and thanks for reading.
Samurai Appliance Repair Man, www.Appliantology.org







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