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How to remove the oven light switch, door latch assembly, and hi-temp cutout on a Thermador CM302US oven

Posted by Samurai Appliance Repair Man, in Oven-Range-Stove Repair 06 September 2011 · 1,502 views

Master Reg illumines us:

from page 35 of the C302 service manual


REMOVING THE OVEN LIGHT SWITCH,
THE OVEN DOOR LATCH ASSEMBLY
and THE HI-TEMP CUTOUT


WARNING
Turn off the electrical power circuit to the oven at the main junction box before servicing this unit.

CAUTION
When you work on the oven, be careful when handling the sheet metal parts.
There are sharp edges present and you can cut yourself if you are not careful.


Refer to Figure 19 on the next page for the following steps.
1. Turn off the electrical power to the oven.
2. Open the oven door for the component you wish to remove.
3. To remove the upper air vent grille, remove the four bottom screws and the two front oven door latch screws.
4. To remove the lower air vent grille, remove the two front oven door latch screws, (see Figure 18),
then pull the posts on the ends of the air vent grille out of the catches in the chassis.
5. To remove the oven light switch, disconnect the wires from the terminals, press in on the locking arms,
and push the switch out of the vent (see inset 1).

6. To remove the oven door latch assembly (see inset 2):
a- Use a 1/4" ratchet and a 1/4" thin-wall socket and remove the two front hexhead screws from the latch bracket.
b- Pull the latch assembly to the right so that the flange on the left side clears the bracket,
and then pull it forward as far as the wires will allow.
c- Remove the wires from the switch connectors and the motor wires from the main harness.
d- To replace a door lock or door unlock switch on the latch assembly,
remove the two screws from the switch body, and remove the switch.



Source: THERMADOR CM302US UPPER DOOR LATCH INSTRUCTIONS


How to disassemble the door on a Frigidaire range oven to clean the glass

Posted by Samurai Appliance Repair Man, in Oven-Range-Stove Repair 28 August 2011 · 3,112 views

The job is done and my wife is very happy.

For those of you out there who are like me and new to self appliance repair I wanted to post a few of my own details in case someone else stumbles across this post with a similar issue.

  • As Kurtiusinterupptus explained above, there are two tabs at the hinges that pull down toward the door and then lay flat to allow the door to be removed. Once these are down you close the door, it will not close all the way, so do not try to force it.. There will be a 8" or so gap like you may leave open if you are cooling the stove off. Once you meet this point simply lift straight up and out and it should come free. The door is not too heavy, but be prepared to take the weight.
  • For this model there are screws on the inside panel (facing up or topside if you laid it down with the handle facing the floor) and on the bottom edge that need to be removed.
    • There are six screws on the inside panel (3 per side), but only the ones that need to be removed are at the top (opposite the handle).
      • I took out all six, but found out the bottom four simply hold in the hinge assembly, so I put them back in.
    • When you remove the two screws that are through the handle, remember that this will release the handle from the door. If this is the only thing you have propping up the door (mine was laying flat, handle down, on a towel) the door will drop the two inches or so to the floor. No harm done for me, but I wished I had thought of it before.
    • The handle screws are held in place between the door panels by a metal bushing type thing (it certainly has a proper name that I do not know). They just sort of fell out on me, and I had no idea what they were, which was a little distressing at first as I was trying to make careful note so I could put it back together. I figured out what they were and really appreciated them when I put things back together as they made getting the screws though the outside panel a breeze at the were held firmly in place.
    • There are 4 screws on the bottom edge that all need to come out.
  • The inside panel will lift right out at this point and can be set aside. The inside glass is held in place by screws so there was no risk of it falling out.
    • I cleaned the glass lightly with windex, then water.
  • The glass for the outside panel just sorta sits there, so don't go picking up the door or it can fall out.
    • I cleaned this lightly as well with windex and water and just left it in place the whole time.
  • For reassembly, I set the handle screws through the inside panel and though the locking bushings I described above and they stood up nicely. Dropping the panel into place and getting the screws through to the other side of the outside panel was a breeze. Once it was through, I stood the door up and held the two panels in place with my hands.
    • There is a little bit of finagling that you have to do to keep pressure on the panels while getting the handle in place and screwed down. I wish I had had help for this step, but it's possible on your own.
      • It was during this step that I noticed there was a bunch of gunk built up on the outside panel under where the handles go. I never saw it before as I left the door face down the whole time. I cleaned it in place while holding the door, but in retrospect, I would have taken the outside glass out while the door was disassembled, turned it over and cleaned it.
    • The bottom 4 screws will zip right in.
  • Putting the door back on is just the reverse of the removal step above.
Thanks to Kurtiusinterupptus and Kdog for responding to my post.

I hope my additional ramblings above are of use to someone.


Source: Frigidaire Electric Stove FEFL79GCA


How to fix a Whirlpool-Kenmore gas range with no gas coming out the cooktop surface burners

Posted by Samurai Appliance Repair Man, in Oven-Range-Stove Repair 05 August 2011 · 1,670 views

The real solution was listed in the tech sheet provided below by RegUS_PatOff

COOKTOP LOCKOUT
FEATURE (SOLENOID)
A normally closed (N.C.) electrical solenoid
is located on the back of the range that will
provide a means of shutting off the gas
supply to the cooktop burners. This 120-volt
solenoid is connected across the L1 and
Neutral sides of the line and controlled by a
relay on the microcomputer board. See
Strip Circuit, page 3.
The solenoid is held open to allow gas to
flow to the cooktop burners. If a customer
wants to “Lockout” the operation of the
cooktop burners, they can hold down the
TOP/TOP LIGHT keypad on the control
panel for 5 seconds.
See Use and Care
Guide.
This will open the relay and disconnect the
electrical supply to the solenoid. Once the
electrical supply is disconnected from the
solenoid, the solenoid will close and stop
gas flow to the cooktop. In the event of a
power outage, the gas supply to the
cooktop burners will be shut off.





Source: Kenmore/whirlpool oven 66575842004


How to replace the glass cooktop on a GE Spectra range

Posted by Samurai Appliance Repair Man, in Oven-Range-Stove Repair 10 July 2011 · 2,506 views

If you were referring to replacing the "cook Top"

it's pretty simple....

turn off power

open oven door

remove the 3 or 4 screws that hold the top down in the front

raise top up, use a board or something to securely hold the top up
as you will need 2 hands to remove burner assemblies.

burners should be mounted on plates, remove the entire plate
with burners attached carefully laying them down.

repeat with rear burner assembly

now the top is ready to remove.

Normally it just sits on the hinges in the back,
there shouldn't be any screws holding it on
but you may have to look at the hinge closely
to see how the top needs to be manipulated to
remove it.


Part link for all styles of GE Spectra glass cooktops ==> Cook Tops


Source: GE Spectra JBP78A0B2AA


How to remove the stove top burners in a Maytag gas range

Posted by Samurai Appliance Repair Man, in Oven-Range-Stove Repair 02 July 2011 · 2,156 views

you have to turn each burner head about 1&1/2" CCW to release it from the top of the range.
Once released you can lift it up and remove the wiring and the top can be raised after releasing
the clips under the front edge.

Note:

They make a special wrench for removing the burners
however you may be able to do it with some other type of large pliers.
you will need to take great care when removing as its normal
to hear a little cracking and poping of the porcelin when removing but, can
crack severly if you rough with it.





Source: Maytag gas range CRG9800BAB






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