Brother Reginald has prepared this nice table that lists wire cross reference info for Whirlpool, Frigidaire, and LG ice makers. Wire away!
Source: How do I splice ice maker wires?
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Power On Diagnostics
When the icemaker is first connected to power and if thermistor temperature is 50°F (10°C) or higher,
the control will perform a Power On test before entering the freeze cycle.
The test consists of the following:
• Turn on the motor until it reaches home the next time.
• Turn on the water valve for 1/2 second.
• Tum on the heater for 1/2 second.
• Verify that the feeler arm was in the "in" and then in the "out" position.
• Verify that the motor was not in the home position and then in the home position.
• Verify that the motor does not remain on after being turned off.
• Proceed to the freeze cycle.
Note:The power on test will only add 1/2 second of water, which will not overflow the mold with a normal fill,
but may cause a small cube when the refrigerator is first started.
If the temperature is below 50°F (10°C), the control will power up normally.
If in the home position, the control will enter the freeze cycle.
If the motor is not home, the control will enter the harvest cycle but bypass water fill to avoid overfilling the mold.
During the first 15 seconds that power is first applied to the icemaker,
the Service Diagnostic Test mode may be entered.
The service mode is entered by pushing the feeler arm from the "out" position to the "in" position
and back again 3 times and only 3 times within 15 seconds.
Note: If the icemaker has already started a harvest cycle and the arm is moving,
it may be impossible to properly move the arm and enter the service mode without allowing it to reset and powering up again.
The service diagnostic mode consists of a harvest cycle followed by a water fill.
The harvest cycle is entered immediately, regardless of icemaker temperature or arm position.
While in the harvest cycle in the service mode, the heater will remain on for a minimum of 20 seconds.
The water fill cycle will initiate the first fill (5.1 seconds) without waiting for the mold to "prechill".
Only one water fill occurs during the service mode, whether the thermistor has reached 39.2°F (4°C) or not.
The icemaker will exit the service diagnostic test on its own and enter the normal freeze cycle.
I noticed I never could seem to find them on the part breakdown, so I made a list. Here ya go!
Electrolux and Frigidaire Refrigerator Water Valve Diode in Harnesses by Model and Ice
Refrigerator Style Ice Maker Type Part Number
Side X Side Crescent Cube 5303918287
French Door Finger Evaporator 242102101
French Door Flex Tray 242119101
On French Door models it doesn't matter if there is a crescent cube ice maker in the
freezer section or not, order the diode according to the style of the ice maker that's in
the fresh food section.
Quick way to check evaporator: With compressor running drain the water from the reservoir by removing bottom cap. Let run for a couple of minutes and check for slight frost on evaporator plate, touch top of plate with wet finger-should stick. If not cold, turn unit off and listen for a hissing noise from evaporator. Not cold and hissing-bad evap. Would replace compressor as well for moisture contamination.
You can also verify by doing the test the Brother Kurtius prescribed, reprinted here for your viewing pleasure:If the board checks bad by this method, it's slam-dunk dead.
1. Remove receiver board (right side) and insert wire into plug in black/black-white wire locations . This effectively bypasses the optics for test purposes. if you have no black/blk-white wires in the plug don’t panic, just chose the two wires beside the blank hole, not on the end.
2. test for voltage at the 4 wire harness plug, black to white and black to green…should have 120vac in both places. if not, inline fuse is open or wire is broken or separated in the liner. very bad and prolly not repairable (the broken wire not the fuse).
3. if voltage is present, hookup i/m and test at the points on the motor module head previously noted L and N…should have 120vac.
4. if voltage is present, install jumper between test points T and H…this should start the icemaker on a rotation if all the above outlined conditions are true. if it doesn’t, the motor on the module is bad. if it does start, reinstall i/m and wait till it fills and parks. remove jumpers and reinstall optics receiver. icemaker should work…if not, we have proven the icemaker assembly is good and the optics must be at fault, regardless of whether the light flashes are checking good or not.
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