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Samurai Appliance Repair Man's Blog



Normal gas burner operation sequence in a gas dryer

Posted by Samurai Appliance Repair Man, in Dryer Repair 29 December 2011 · 1,791 views

My old guru, AT1 Crowe, used to tell me, "Look, sailor, how you gonna even begin to troubleshoot equipment to figure out what's wrong if you don't know what right is?" Applying this flawless logic to gas dryers, if the burner in your gas dryer ain't firing up, you gotta at least start by knowing what the correct operation sequence is. Grand Master Reg lays it out for us:

normal operation ..

1) Ignitor glows
2) various clacks ... Gas Valve opens and Ignitor stops glowing
3) Gas and Flame stays on until Dryer heat rises to about 160F, then goes off
4) Flame stays off until Dryer heat drops to about 135F
repeat


To learn more about your dryer or to order parts, click here.



Source: Kenmore Dryer 110.73942101 - no heat




How to test the power supply for the heater in an electric dryer for both L1 and L2

Posted by Samurai Appliance Repair Man, in Dryer Repair 21 December 2011 · 946 views

OK ... this is dangerous, but this is what I would do to narrow it down. Essentially we want to find out if power is being supplied to the element from L1 or L2 or both when it is off. You have to be very careful doing this - consider yourself warned ... 240v will do damage to you.

***Unplug the dryer.***

Take one of the red wires off of the heating element - does not mater which one. Bend it out of the way so that it is not close to any ground.

Plug dryer back in.

Turn unit on - it will not heat, but should be sending power to the red wire you have disconnected and to the terminal that you took it off of. Check that - put one lead on the wire that is out in the open and the other on the terminal. You should be seeing 240 volts there. Now open the door. As you said the element continues to heat even though the unit is not running. Now check those points again. Do you have 240 volts? If not, then check each one to ground. Do you have 120 volts on one side? If so which side? With this information we can decide if the power is coming through the motor (centrifuge switch) or the timer.

Please don't electrocute yourself.



Source: Whirlpool Heat Element Not Turning Off LER7646EQ0


Complete maintenance and tuneup kit for a Kenmore-Frigidaire dryer

Posted by Samurai Appliance Repair Man, in Dryer Repair 17 December 2011 · 1,463 views

Getting sick of all that thumpin', bumpin', rattlin', and moanin' going on inside that dryer when you run it? For just a few bucks and little bit of handiwork, you can make that dryer purr like a brand new one! You'll save money on your electric bill, too because the dryer will run more efficiently.


Posted Image


Here's the link to the maintenance kit ==> http://www.repaircli...er=417.79042990

And here's how to install it:

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Mmt9v-e3Urk

:dude:



Source: Kenmore Gas Dryer Thermal Fuse 417.79042990


How to test a dryer cycling thermostat

Posted by Samurai Appliance Repair Man, in Dryer Repair 08 December 2011 · 554 views



To learn more about your dryer, or to order parts, click here.




How to disassemble an LG dryer to remove a sock or something stuck in the blower

Posted by Samurai Appliance Repair Man, in Dryer Repair 03 December 2011 · 2,994 views

Dryer powers up, you select a cycle and push start and the dryer hums for a coupla seconds and then goes quiet for a while. This usually indicates something is blocking the drum from rotating. A sock stuck in the blower would do it.

A quick test to see if you have a drum blockage problem is to simply open the door and try to turn the drum by hand. If you can't turn the drum manually, ain't no way that dinky motor in there is gonna turn it, ether! Can I hear an, "A-freakin-men?"

If you need to get inside the dryer to remove a sock stuck in the blower or some other rolling problem, Sublime Master john63 steps us over the rice paper without a single tear or wrinkle:

Unplug dryer

Looking at the rear of dryer---the TOP COVER has what looks like "hinges"

At each plastic "hinge"---there are 2 phillips-type screws---remove only the lower screws at each "hinge".

Grasp the TOP COVER and slide rear about 2 inches---lift off & remove.

Standing at the front of the dryer---remove the WATER DISPENSER TRAY (release tab is at the bottom of the drawer).

Remove the 2 phillips screws that are now visible with the WATER DISPENSER DRAWER removed.

At the right-hand side of the CONTROL PANEL---remove a single phillips screw from the corner (opposite side of panel).

Disconnect plugs/wires that are directly behind the *jog dial* of the CONTROL PANEL

Remove the CONTROL PANEL---a small flat screwdriver helps to unsnap the **tabs** that secure the CONTROL PANEL

With the CONTROL PANEL removed---remove the 5 screws which secure the entire FRONT PANEL/COVER of the dryer. These screws are located at the top of the front panel---and were not visible with the CONTROL PANEL installed.

Pull the FRONT PANEL towards you just enough to allow unplugging the DOOR SWITCH

Lift the entire FRONT PANEL an inch or so & remove

Remove the LINT FILTER & place it inside the Drum

Looking at the front of the dryer---you'll notice a DUCT HOUSING (silver)

Remove the 2 phillips screws from the DUCT & slide it down-and-away.

With a bright flashlight---examine the BLOWER HOUSING---remove any clothing/obstruction

Re-assemble in reverse order


Common parts that cause rolling problems when they go bad:

Drum Roller

Belt, Drive

Drive Motor

Blower Wheel

Idler Pulley



Source: lg dlex7177rm






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