Samurai Appliance Repair Man's Blog

Going from the gray matter, put both arms into the unit ,one to the left of the drum and one to the right  near the bottom,  left arm over the blower........... On the left side, the belt will go down from the drum, under the motor pulley, up on the right ,,Use your right hand and pull the  Idler pulley to the right and lay the belt on the top of the  Idler pulley...... let the  Idler pulley return to the left slowly..........Viewed from the front,  belt down on the left, under the motor pulley up and over the idler pulley....  continuing up and to the right , over the drum.........

Belt part link... http://www.repaircli...t-Drive/1381519

Source: GE Model DBXR453GT

I got the new motor in, but the blower fan wheel was clamped on (no wonder it didn't unscrew out!).  That wheel is broken too...

FYI anyone getting the blower fan out, you have to remove that panel in the front that goes between the washer and dryer.  Then you can get the screws out that can't be reached from above.

The motor clamps have an indent toward one end that you can just push down on with a screw driver until it unhooks... the back one comes out first, then the front one appears after the whole blower housing is removed.

Thanks for the help all..

Source: Kenmore 417.92702200 Dryer/Washer Stacked Motor Vibrates loudly then Thermal Protection Pops

Kenmore gas dryer parts

Source: Kenmore gas dryer model#11078732700

When troubleshooting electrical problems with appliance, like no-heat complaints in dryers, you absotootly gotta have the wiring diagram / tech sheet that comes packaged with the appliance.  The manufacturers cleverly hide these inside the appliance to keep owners from finding them and losing them.  I love when I go out on a job and need the tech sheet but it's been removed from the appliance.  The customer then informs that they took it and filed it so it wouldn't "get lost" but they can't find it.  Folks, that's a show-stopper.  You cannot troubleshoot electrical problems, except for the most simple and obvious ones, without the tech sheet.  Just ain't gonna happen.  

Strip charts are nice because they focus only on the circuit and components involved with the specific complaint; in this case, no heat.   Let's take a look at the heater strip chart on this beast:



I've highlighted the key components in the hearing circuit that should be checked.  You can start with resistance checks if you like.  Note the thermistor resistances are given.  

But being as how I am an experienced appliance warrior, I like to do live tests with the voltage on the circuit.  

This is especially easy in this case.  Just disconnect the two common wires from both heater relays (violet and red wires), secure the wires so they don't touch anything and then run the dryer on a heat cycle.  In a properly functioning hearing circuit, you'll have 120vas at both the NO (black) and the violet and red wires that were disconnected from the heater relay.  Whichever side is missing the 120vac is the problem side.  

Can also disconnect the common wire from the heating element, secure it, and run the dryer.  See with side of the heating element circuit isn't giving you 120vac: either the control side or the motor side.  Whichever is missing the 120vac is the side with the problem.

Source: Maytag Bravo MED6400TB0 electric dryer no heating

Take a look at the fuse linked here

Fuse Link

Pop the top up on the dryer (with it unplugged)
The fuse is attached to the right rear wall of the dryer
right beside the terminal block (where the cord attaches)
unplug the wires from the fuse and check continuity
no continuity = bad...and if so check your venting
for a crimp or restriction as well as the lint filter housing,
it tends to clog up at the bottom.

correct the problem before replacing the fuse (if it's bad)
or it will blow again.

Source: Frigidaire FDE647RFS1 dryer wont start