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Samurai Appliance Repair Man's Blog



Troubleshooting tips for LG electric dryers that won't heat

Posted by Samurai Appliance Repair Man, in Dryer Repair 26 March 2011 · 1,496 views

Sublime Master john63 is The School's resident LG and Samsung expert and offers these troubleshooting tips for LG electric dryers that won't heat gleaned from actual hand-to-hand combat with these machines.

HEATING ELEMENTS in LG dryers **rarely** fail.

Unless-----the *exhaust vent* from the rear of the dryer-to-the-outside-venthood is/has been blocked/restricted for a very,very long time.

Even then---the Heating Element usually does not fail.

I've replaced perhaps **one** Heating Element in nine years.

On the other hand---THERMAL LIMITERS will & do fail if the *exhaust vent* is blocked/restricted.
If the *exhaust vent* is a very short-length (1 to 3 feet)---then the liklihood of the vent causing a failed THERMAL LIMITER is nil. The 2nd most common cause of *failed* THERMAL LIMITERS is from Fabric Softener Sheets. Once-in-awhile the Fab. Soft. Sheet will become "caught/sucked" onto the LINT FILTER HOUSING and this causes a giant reduction in AIR FLOW.
Air movement from the Heater-Through-The-Laundry-Through-The-Lint-Filter-And-Exiting-The-Dryer-Exhaust-Vent slows to such a reduced a level---which then causes the Heater Housing Temperature to "spike". This in turn causes the THERMAL LIMITER to *shut-down* the Heater--for safety.



When I get an LG electric dryer that has a NO HEAT complaint--the very first thing that I will examine/rule-out will be the *exhaust venting* that runs from behind the dryer to the outside dryer vent hood. If the vent is has been verified 100% to be absolutely-positively clear/unobstructed---and...

1) The wall receptacle has 220 volts

***Unplug the Dryer at this point***

2) The TERMINAL BLOCK is not damaged/burnt (this is where the dryer plug attaches to the dryer)

Then it's time to inspect the THERMAL FUSE. This is centrally-mounted on the side of the HEATER HOUSING.
If the THERMAL FUSE (6931EL3003D) has failed a *continuity* test using a Digital MultiMeter (DMM)--it should be replaced along with the THERMOSTAT (6931EL3001E) which is also mounted on the HEATER HOUSING.

If the THERMAL LIMITER tested "good"...

Place the test leads into the Motor Connector/Plug. One test probe into each of the two *thickest* wires of the Motor Plug.

Looking at the Motor---you'll notice a *black ring* on the motor shaft directly opposite the Motor PULLEY.
This *black ring* is part of the CENTRIFUGAL SWITCH on the Motor (prevents the Heater from functioning if the Motor fails to start).
Use your finger to slide the *black ring* towards/in the direction of the BLOWER WHEEL (it'll slide about 1/2 inch).
At this point the DMM should show *continuity*. If not--replace the MOTOR.  

If the CENTRIFUGAL SWITCH tests good---replace the MAIN BOARD (a rare failure for a NO HEAT condition but not impossible).


Source: LG DLE7177RM Not Heating


Replacing the rear bearing in a GE / Frigidaire dryer

Posted by Samurai Appliance Repair Man, in Dryer Repair 24 March 2011 · 522 views

Friggidaire used to make dyers for GE (example model number:  WSM2700HBWWW) back when GE was too busy building shoddy Mark 1 nuclear power plants to build their own shoddy dryers; those came later... and they're pretty damn shoddy.  The Frigidaire-built units were better though not nearly as good as the Whirlpool units with the lint filter i the top panel.  

Anyway, if your dryer Frigidaire-built GE dryer is making a squeeling noise in back, you probably need to replace the rear bearing kit.  

This unit is made by Frigidaire, here's a link to the bearing kit which includes a how-to video:

Posted Image


For manuals and lots of other goodies, become an Apprentice==> http://appliantology.org/apprentice/


Source: GE WSM2700HBWWW replace rear bearing


Whirlpool Duet electric dryer- three fast beeps when you press the start cycle button

Posted by Samurai Appliance Repair Man, in Dryer Repair 23 March 2011 · 883 views

Example model number:  GEW9200

This problem is caused a bad door switch.  Here's the link to the door switch, click the picture:

Posted Image

You can test using an ohmmeter.  There are 3 prongs on switch, identified as C,NC, and NO.  

C-NC should be closed circuit until you push switch and then it should be open.

C-NO should be open circuit until you push switch and then read closed.


Buying the switch through this site is a risk-free proposition because you can return the switch for a refund if that doesn't fix it.   :rolleyes:


Disassembling an LG Tromm Electric Dryer DLE7177WM

Posted by Samurai Appliance Repair Man, in Dryer Repair 06 March 2011 · 2,086 views

Gott Ein Himmel! Well, ye of little faith, let's grab our "phillips" screwdriver and volt-ohmmeter...

1) Unplug the dryer.

2) Remove 3 "phillips" screws from the TOP COVER of the dryer. These screws are at the rear of the top cover.

3) Slide the top cover rearward about an inch & lift-off.

4) Open the DOOR of the dryer & remove 2 screws under the *opening*. Roughly located at the 5 and 7 O'clock locations.

5) Standing in front of the dryer & looking behind the control panel---unplug all wire connections to the MAIN BOARD.

6) Now remove the screws from the *corners* of the CONTROL PANEL (Note: Some dryers only have one screw on the right side

7) Grasp the top of the CONTROL PANEL & forcefully "peel" the panel off (This plastic is tough).

8) With the CONTROL PANEL removed---you'll notice 4 screws that secure the FRONT COVER. Remove those & slowly tilt the FRONT COVER towards you---disconnect the DOOR SWITCH PLUG. Set aside the front cover. Step back & look at the front of the dryer. On the lower right side is a *white* plug. Squeeze the tab on this plug & pull apart to disconnect. This is the plug for the MOISTURE SENSOR. (During re-assembly---don't forget this little guy).

9) Grab a FELT-TIP MARKER & place a *dot* next to the 2 screws on the front of the *silver* bracket that the CONTROL PANEL *snaps* onto. Then remove the 2 screws. Remove the other 2 screws at the top of the *silver* bracket and remove the silver bracket by pulling upward.

10) Remove 4 screws at each corner (or ear) of the FRONT DRUM SUPPORT ASSY.

11) Pull the SUPPORT ASSY upward & towards you--set aside.

12) Grab the DRUM & rotate counterclockwise while pulling towards you. The belt will slip off. Remove the DRUM.

13) You'll see a silver/square box on the right-hand side. Pull off the wires to the THERMAL LIMITER & test it for *continuity* with the test meter. If "open"---replace the THERMAL LIMITER and the other THERMOSTAT next to it.

14) If the THERMAL LIMITER has failed---the home exhaust vent *must* be cleaned. 100%.

15) Use a shop vac to clean everything up.

Re-assemble in reverse order.


Source: LG Tromm Electric Dryer DLE7177WM







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