Strip charts are nice because they focus only on the circuit and components involved with the specific complaint; in this case, no heat. Let's take a look at the heater strip chart on this beast:
I've highlighted the key components in the hearing circuit that should be checked. You can start with resistance checks if you like. Note the thermistor resistances are given.
But being as how I am an experienced appliance warrior, I like to do live tests with the voltage on the circuit.
This is especially easy in this case. Just disconnect the two common wires from both heater relays (violet and red wires), secure the wires so they don't touch anything and then run the dryer on a heat cycle. In a properly functioning hearing circuit, you'll have 120vas at both the NO (black) and the violet and red wires that were disconnected from the heater relay. Whichever side is missing the 120vac is the problem side.
Can also disconnect the common wire from the heating element, secure it, and run the dryer. See with side of the heating element circuit isn't giving you 120vac: either the control side or the motor side. Whichever is missing the 120vac is the side with the problem.
Source: Maytag Bravo MED6400TB0 electric dryer no heating
Take a look at the fuse linked here
Pop the top up on the dryer (with it unplugged)
The fuse is attached to the right rear wall of the dryer
right beside the terminal block (where the cord attaches)
unplug the wires from the fuse and check continuity
no continuity = bad...and if so check your venting
for a crimp or restriction as well as the lint filter housing,
it tends to clog up at the bottom.
correct the problem before replacing the fuse (if it's bad)
or it will blow again.
Source: Frigidaire FDE647RFS1 dryer wont start
HEATING ELEMENTS in LG dryers **rarely** fail.
Unless-----the *exhaust vent* from the rear of the dryer-to-the-outside-venthood is/has been blocked/restricted for a very,very long time.
Even then---the Heating Element usually does not fail.
I've replaced perhaps **one** Heating Element in nine years.
On the other hand---THERMAL LIMITERS will & do fail if the *exhaust vent* is blocked/restricted.
If the *exhaust vent* is a very short-length (1 to 3 feet)---then the liklihood of the vent causing a failed THERMAL LIMITER is nil. The 2nd most common cause of *failed* THERMAL LIMITERS is from Fabric Softener Sheets. Once-in-awhile the Fab. Soft. Sheet will become "caught/sucked" onto the LINT FILTER HOUSING and this causes a giant reduction in AIR FLOW.
Air movement from the Heater-Through-The-Laundry-Through-The-Lint-Filter-And-Exiting-The-Dryer-Exhaust-Vent slows to such a reduced a level---which then causes the Heater Housing Temperature to "spike". This in turn causes the THERMAL LIMITER to *shut-down* the Heater--for safety.
When I get an LG electric dryer that has a NO HEAT complaint--the very first thing that I will examine/rule-out will be the *exhaust venting* that runs from behind the dryer to the outside dryer vent hood. If the vent is has been verified 100% to be absolutely-positively clear/unobstructed---and...
1) The wall receptacle has 220 volts
***Unplug the Dryer at this point***
2) The TERMINAL BLOCK is not damaged/burnt (this is where the dryer plug attaches to the dryer)
Then it's time to inspect the THERMAL FUSE. This is centrally-mounted on the side of the HEATER HOUSING.
If the THERMAL FUSE (6931EL3003D) has failed a *continuity* test using a Digital MultiMeter (DMM)--it should be replaced along with the THERMOSTAT (6931EL3001E) which is also mounted on the HEATER HOUSING.
If the THERMAL LIMITER tested "good"...
Place the test leads into the Motor Connector/Plug. One test probe into each of the two *thickest* wires of the Motor Plug.
Looking at the Motor---you'll notice a *black ring* on the motor shaft directly opposite the Motor PULLEY.
This *black ring* is part of the CENTRIFUGAL SWITCH on the Motor (prevents the Heater from functioning if the Motor fails to start).
Use your finger to slide the *black ring* towards/in the direction of the BLOWER WHEEL (it'll slide about 1/2 inch).
At this point the DMM should show *continuity*. If not--replace the MOTOR.
If the CENTRIFUGAL SWITCH tests good---replace the MAIN BOARD (a rare failure for a NO HEAT condition but not impossible).
Source: LG DLE7177RM Not Heating
Anyway, if your dryer Frigidaire-built GE dryer is making a squeeling noise in back, you probably need to replace the rear bearing kit.
Source: GE WSM2700HBWWW replace rear bearing
Happy Thanksgiving 2015!26 November 2015
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Master Samurai Tech Radio, Episode 12 [Special Video Edition]31 October 2015
Loose Electrical Connections and Heat24 October 2015
Master Samurai Tech Radio, Episode 1118 October 2015
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