Jump to content



Learn appliance repair at the Samurai Tech Academy.  Learn more.  Earn more.


Parts Search
Site Search

FAQs | Store | Memberships | Repair Videos | Academy | Newsletter | Beer Fund | Contact


Welcome to Appliantology.org, the Web's Premiere Appliance Repair Resource!

The world-famous Samurai Appliance Repair Forums


To get started, click here.


Already a member of the Appliantology Academy? Just sign in with your username and password in the upper right-hand corner of the screen.

 


Samurai Appliance Repair Man's Blog



Replacing the rear bearing in a GE / Frigidaire dryer

Posted by Samurai Appliance Repair Man, in Dryer Repair 24 March 2011 · 777 views

Friggidaire used to make dyers for GE (example model number: WSM2700HBWWW) back when GE was too busy building shoddy Mark 1 nuclear power plants to build their own shoddy dryers; those came later... and they're pretty damn shoddy. The Frigidaire-built units were better though not nearly as good as the Whirlpool units with the lint filter i the top panel.

Anyway, if your dryer Frigidaire-built GE dryer is making a squeeling noise in back, you probably need to replace the rear bearing kit.

This unit is made by Frigidaire, here's a link to the bearing kit which includes a how-to video:

Posted Image


For manuals and lots of other goodies, become an Apprentice==> http://appliantology.org/apprentice/


Source: GE WSM2700HBWWW replace rear bearing


Whirlpool Duet electric dryer- three fast beeps when you press the start cycle button

Posted by Samurai Appliance Repair Man, in Dryer Repair 23 March 2011 · 1,447 views

Example model number: GEW9200

This problem is caused a bad door switch. Here's the link to the door switch, click the picture:

Posted Image

You can test using an ohmmeter. There are 3 prongs on switch, identified as C,NC, and NO.

C-NC should be closed circuit until you push switch and then it should be open.

C-NO should be open circuit until you push switch and then read closed.


Buying the switch through this site is a risk-free proposition because you can return the switch for a refund if that doesn't fix it. :rolleyes:


Disassembling an LG Tromm Electric Dryer DLE7177WM

Posted by Samurai Appliance Repair Man, in Dryer Repair 06 March 2011 · 4,219 views

Gott Ein Himmel! Well, ye of little faith, let's grab our "phillips" screwdriver and volt-ohmmeter...

1) Unplug the dryer.

2) Remove 3 "phillips" screws from the TOP COVER of the dryer. These screws are at the rear of the top cover.

3) Slide the top cover rearward about an inch & lift-off.

4) Open the DOOR of the dryer & remove 2 screws under the *opening*. Roughly located at the 5 and 7 O'clock locations.

5) Standing in front of the dryer & looking behind the control panel---unplug all wire connections to the MAIN BOARD.

6) Now remove the screws from the *corners* of the CONTROL PANEL (Note: Some dryers only have one screw on the right side

7) Grasp the top of the CONTROL PANEL & forcefully "peel" the panel off (This plastic is tough).

8) With the CONTROL PANEL removed---you'll notice 4 screws that secure the FRONT COVER. Remove those & slowly tilt the FRONT COVER towards you---disconnect the DOOR SWITCH PLUG. Set aside the front cover. Step back & look at the front of the dryer. On the lower right side is a *white* plug. Squeeze the tab on this plug & pull apart to disconnect. This is the plug for the MOISTURE SENSOR. (During re-assembly---don't forget this little guy).

9) Grab a FELT-TIP MARKER & place a *dot* next to the 2 screws on the front of the *silver* bracket that the CONTROL PANEL *snaps* onto. Then remove the 2 screws. Remove the other 2 screws at the top of the *silver* bracket and remove the silver bracket by pulling upward.

10) Remove 4 screws at each corner (or ear) of the FRONT DRUM SUPPORT ASSY.

11) Pull the SUPPORT ASSY upward & towards you--set aside.

12) Grab the DRUM & rotate counterclockwise while pulling towards you. The belt will slip off. Remove the DRUM.

13) You'll see a silver/square box on the right-hand side. Pull off the wires to the THERMAL LIMITER & test it for *continuity* with the test meter. If "open"---replace the THERMAL LIMITER and the other THERMOSTAT next to it.

14) If the THERMAL LIMITER has failed---the home exhaust vent *must* be cleaned. 100%.

15) Use a shop vac to clean everything up.

Re-assemble in reverse order.


Source: LG Tromm Electric Dryer DLE7177WM



Maytag dryer model LDE9806ACE: grinds, groans, shudders, and grunts

Posted by Samurai Appliance Repair Man, in Dryer Repair 05 March 2011 · 1,262 views

These are the good ol' Maytag dryers, one of the best designs ever made. They're not making this design anymore. If you have this dryer, it's definitely worth fixing and keeping.

If it starts sounding like this...


...then here's your shopping list:

Posted Image

Posted Image

Posted Image

Posted Image


Easy job. :rolleyes:






Like - Plus - Connect - View

Facebook-icon50x50.png google-plus-icon-50x50.png YouTube-icon50x50.png

Find Parts & Diagrams Here

Looking for Appliance Parts? Enter your model number, part number, or even a part description and find it here. 365-day return policy on all parts purchased here, even electrical parts that have been installed!

Search My Blog

Latest Visitors

Random Album Image

LG Refrigerator Training

2 user(s) viewing

0 members, 2 guests, 0 anonymous users


FAQs | Store | Memberships | Repair Videos | Academy | Newsletter | Beer Fund | Contact


Use the Appliantology Parts Finder to Get What You Need!
Enter a model number, part number, type of appliance, brand, or even a part description.
365-day return policy on all parts purchased here, even electrical parts that have been installed!

Your Sometimes-Lucid Host:
Samurai Appliance Repair Man
"If I can't help you fix your appliance and make you 100% satisfied, I will come to your home and slice open my belly,
spilling my steaming entrails onto your floor."


The Appliance Guru | Master Samurai Tech

Real Time Analytics