Samurai Appliance Repair Man's Blog

If you need to replace the recirculation hose (recirculates water inside the tub) in a Whirlpool Coll-apso washer, you'll be relieved to know that you don't have to remove the inner basket to do so.

This page from the service manual shows where the location of the recirc hose and explains its function:

http://appliantology...calypso-washer/

And Chief Master Appliantologist DADoESTX explains the technique:

The basket *does not* need to be removed. Raise the top, take off the tub ring. Release the tab on top of the recirc tube where it anchors to a slot at top of the outer tub, and pull the tube straight upwards to remove it. Press the replacement tube down into place on the connector nipple/nubbie at bottom of the tub, anchor the tab. Reassemble the tub ring and machine top.

Here's the part link to the replacement recirc hose ==> http://bit.ly/UfJxEu


Source: K/M 110.25066500 hose replacement

Got bad drum bearings in your LG washer and thinking about replacing 'em?  Okay, Hoss, Professor john63 calls the dance steps on this little ditty:

You'll need:

REAR OUTER TUB ASSY (3045ER0048)
click on picture $ 140



INNER BASKET (3045ER1017A)
click on picture $ 195



TUB O-RING SEAL (4036ER4001B)
click on picture $ 6


And a Service Manual.
http://appliantology...-washer-wm2487/

Source: LG washer bearing replacement?

Here's the low-down on a Whirlpool (or Kenmore-labelled, Whirlpool-built) dishwasher that has the Clean Light blinking seven times. In other words, blinks seven times, pauses, then repeats.

The reason the light is blinking seven times is because the control board is looking for a specific temperature rise in the water in the basin and is not seeing it.

"Well, if the water temperature ain't rising, then the heater must be bad, right?"

Maybe. But other things besides a bad heater can cause the water temperature to not rise. Let's list all the possibilities here:

1. Bad heating element, which we already mentioned. Check continuity of the element. Should be something low ohms, the exact reading is not important-- you're looking to see if the element is open. If the element is open, replace it.

2. Heating element not getting voltage. This could be as simple as a loose wire on the heating element or a bad hi-limit thermostat. Or the the heater relay on the control board could be bad, in which case you would replace the control board. Trace the circuit back with your meter and the wiring diagram until you find the missing voltage.

3. No water in the basin! The control can't sense a rise in water temperature if there's no water to heat. Makes sense, right? To check this, start the dishwasher. After it finishes the pump out cycle, listen for the hissing of the water filling. If it's very quiet or silent, then there's a problem with the water fill components: bad water inlet valve or the valve isn't getting voltage. Open the door and check the fill level. Water level should be a finger width below the heating element. If it's less than this, then the water inlet valve has gookus in the inlet screen and should be replaced.

4. The pump isn't circulating water over the heating element. If water isn't circulating, you probably have a bad motor-pump assembly. You can verify by placing a glass in the upper rack and running the dishwasher (after it fills) for about a minute. If the glass is less than half full, then the pump is weak or dying and should be replaced. Honestly, this is most common cause the Clean Light blinking problem that I've seen. Here's the patented Samurai Technique® for replacing the motor-pump assembly in one of these dishwashers in less than four minutes, including beer drinking time:




To learn more about your dishwasher or to order parts, click here.

Here's wishing you and your family and joyous Christmas Day and a prosperous New Year in 2013. Thanks for being part of the Appliantology Academy and helping to make it the most kick-ass appliance repair site on the web!

Most microwave ovens have three safety microswitches in the door latch assembly.  The diagram below is typical:




These microswitches aren't the most robust switches ever made and can be down right squirrely.  They may test good one minute and then look bad the next.  When a switch looks flakey like that, trust your meter and just replace it.  Chief jumptrout's experience with this is typical:

Had a strange occurrence today on a microwave call.
The lower microswitch that activates closed when the door is closed was the problem.
With the switch in place and the door closed,there was no continuity in the switch.
I removed the switch and did a double test of the switch to verify a bad switch.
When the button was pressed,the switch made momentary continuity.
When completely depressed the switch broke continuity.
If you backed off on the pressure on the button,continuity resumed.
Has anyone seen a situation where this has happened?

Yep i have had that before a few times...nice catch. That can be easy to miss if your not diligent.

Source: Weird microswitch