Jump to content


Learn appliance repair at the Samurai Tech Academy.  Learn more.  Earn more.


Use this Search Box to Find Appliance Repair Help Now
Need help finding your model number?
365-day return policy on all parts purchased here, even electrical parts that have been installed!


FAQs | Store | Memberships | Repair Videos | Academy | Newsletter | Beer Fund | Contact


Welcome to Appliantology.org, the Web's Premiere Appliance Repair Resource!

The world-famous Samurai Appliance Repair Forums


You can post a question and get repair help for FREE! Click here to get started.


Already a member of the Appliantology Academy? Just sign in with your username and password in the upper right-hand corner of the screen.

 


Samurai Appliance Repair Man's Blog



How to Remove the Main Control Board in a Bosch Ascenta Dishwasher

Posted by Samurai Appliance Repair Man, in Dishwasher Repair 17 October 2014 · 237 views
Bosch, Ascenta, dishwasher and 1 more...
The Bosch Ascenta line of dishwashers disassemble very differently from the older Bosch dishwashers you may be familiar with. In the older Bosch's, the main control board is easily accessible in the door control panel, just like you would expect. But not with the Ascenta line. The Bosch engineers thought it would be a great idea to put the main control board way down at the bottom in back of the dishwasher so you have to pull the whole dishwasher out to get to it. Brother Chat calls the dance steps on this procedure:

Tools needed: # 2 Phillips and flat blade screwdrivers
1. Disconnect & pull out dishwasher.
2. Unplug power supply cord from rear of power module.
3. Lift off tank fleece insulation from right side of dishwasher.
4. Lift off cover from power module
5. Two plastic base tabs hold the power module in place. To remove power module, gently pry base tabs until they clear module and lift the module up from the base. If necessary, gently pry up the rear of the power module.
6. Disconnect top / side wire harnesses from power module, making sure to remove the harnesses with their caps, not individually.

Not all terminals are used. To protect power modules, two plugs are used to cover unused terminals.

TIP: Check error codes before replacing power modules. Many good power modules are replaced and faulty parts aren’t replaced, causing repeat calls.

CAUTION – 80% of all controls returned for analysis check out OK. Most control issues are due to loose connections and error codes for other parts.



And here's the service manual for the Bosch Ascenta dishwasher: Bosch Ascenta Dishwasher Service Manual, 2nd Edition

Source: Bosch SHE6AP06UC/06 dishwasher


Whirlpool Vertical Modular Washers VMW randomly going into Endless Test Cycle

Posted by Samurai Appliance Repair Man, in Washing Machine Repair 11 October 2014 · 334 views
whirlpool, washer, vmw, vm washer
Brother Bob brings us fresh pearls from Whirlpool Tech line on the latest strangeness going on with these Whirlpool VM washers:

Hi All,

Had an interesting call on a Vertical Modular Washer yesterday and I thought I should pass on the info that Tech Line gave me.

This was actually a Maytag M# MVWC425BW0. Purchased 12/28/13.

Compliant: Customer started a wash, left the house, came back home 5 hours later and washer was still running. Later that night she said that as they were watching tv the washer started up all by itself.

This washer was stuck in the "Endless Test Cycle". Tech Line said that this is used to test the washers before they leave the factory.

Tech Line said that if this was a new washer it would simply mean that someone at the factory forgot to take the control out of the Endless Test Cycle. However, he said that for the past year to year and a half they have been seeing these washers putting themselves into the Endless Test Cycle and the Engineers are stumped as to why this is happening.

To turn Endless Test Cycle On or Off:

Put the washer into Diagnostics, turn the dial to the LEFT (counter-clockwise) until the Wash- Rinse- Done lights are on. Push Start. If the washer powers Off you have just taken the washer OUT of Endless Test Cycle. If the washer starts to Fill you have just put the washer INTO Endless Test Cycle.

If the washer powers OFF, unplug for 5 seconds, plug back in and wait 10 seconds, if the washer does NOT start to Fill you have successfully taken the washer out of Endless Test Cycle.

He said that they have also been seeing replacement Control Boards leaving the factory that have not been taken out of Endless Test Cycle. He said that if you replace a Control on these washers to go in and check to make sure that Endless Test Cycle is indeed turned off.


Source: Whirlpool VMW Washers


How to Disassemble the Dispenser in an LG Refrigerator

Posted by Samurai Appliance Repair Man, in Refrigerator Repair 08 September 2014 · 665 views
LG, refrigerator, dispenser
Brother Chat calls the dance steps on this one. This particular case is for model number LSC26905TT but the same procedure applies to many other LG models, too.

1) Disconnect funnel and button assembly by pulling down and forward.
2) Remove display frame Assembly by making a gap between a display frame Assembly and funnel Assembly. with a balde screwdriver and pulling it forward. The cover dispenser is attached with a hook.
3) The Display Assembly can be connected by pressing the top of the dispenser cover and pushing it after separating the Display Frame from its housing.
4) Loosen four screws with a phillips screwdriver and pull the funnel Assembly to disconnect.
5) The Duct Cap Assembly can be disconnected if the hold lever connecting screw is loosened with a phillips driver.
6) To install the Duct Cap Assembly, insert one end of the spring into the right hole of the dispenser lever and insert the other end into the right hole in the top part of the dispenser. Then attach the holder at the solenoid switch.

http://appliantology...service-manual/

You'll have to subscribe to download above service manual.



Source: lg lsc26905tt


How the Energy Star Requirements are (unwittingly) Protecting the Appliance Repair Trade

Posted by Samurai Appliance Repair Man, in Appliance Repair Service 18 August 2014 · 1,753 views
appliance repair, regulations and 1 more...
Anyone who knows me knows that I am not a fan of Big Gubmint-- it is far too impersonal, too easily bought and controlled by large corporate interests, and always anathema to individual liberty, security, and creativity. But, once in a while, Big Gubmint's meddlesome and doltish regulations have the unwitting effect of benefiting a narrow group of little people, like us. The Energy Star requirements are a case-in-point.

Thanks to the Energy Star requirements, manufacturers are making appliances that have a higher retail cost AND higher failure rates which translates into more frequent repairs, higher repair costs, and increased likelihood that the customer will opt to repair over replace. All of this bodes extremely well for the appliance repair industry and I know I have already been reaping the benefits of these regulations in my own service business. If you're a servicer, you probably are, too, but may not realize it.

Below, I'm re-posting an old opinion piece from the Wall Street Journal bemoaning the effects of the Energy Star requirements on top load washers. The deleterious effects on top load washers described in the article are spot-on. However, it's also undeniable that we, as appliance servicers, are reaping a windfall of business from these Energy Star requirements. So, despite my distaste for Big Gubmint and its relentless regulatory avalanche, I proudly embrace my hypocrisy when I proclaim, "All hail, Energy Star!"


***************************************************************


How Washington Ruined Your Washing Machine

It might not have been the most stylish, but for decades the top-loading laundry machine was the most affordable and dependable. Now it's ruined—and Americans have politics to thank.

In 1996, top-loaders were pretty much the only type of washer around, and they were uniformly high quality. When Consumer Reports tested 18 models, 13 were "excellent" and five were "very good." By 2007, though, not one was excellent and seven out of 21 were "fair" or "poor." This month came the death knell: Consumer Reports simply dismissed all conventional top-loaders as "often mediocre or worse."

How's that for progress?

The culprit is the federal government's obsession with energy efficiency. Efficiency standards for washing machines aren't as well-known as those for light bulbs, which will effectively prohibit 100-watt incandescent bulbs next year. Nor are they the butt of jokes as low-flow toilets are. But in their quiet destruction of a highly affordable, perfectly satisfactory appliance, washer standards demonstrate the harmfulness of the ever-growing body of efficiency mandates.

The federal government first issued energy standards for washers in the early 1990s. When the Department of Energy ratcheted them up a decade later, it was the beginning of the end for top-loaders. Their costlier and harder-to-use rivals—front-loading washing machines—were poised to dominate.

Front-loaders meet federal standards more easily than top-loaders. Because they don't fully immerse their laundry loads, they use less hot water and therefore less energy. But, as Americans are increasingly learning, front-loaders are expensive, often have mold problems, and don't let you toss in a wayward sock after they've started.

When the Department of Energy began raising the standard, it promised that "consumers will have the same range of clothes washers as they have today," and cleaning ability wouldn't be changed. That's not how it turned out.

In 2007, after the more stringent rules had kicked in, Consumer Reports noted that some top-loaders were leaving its test swatches "nearly as dirty as they were before washing." "For the first time in years," CR said, "we can't call any washer a Best Buy." Contrast that with the magazine's 1996 report that, "given warm enough water and a good detergent, any washing machine will get clothes clean." Those were the good old days.

In 2007, only one conventional top-loader was rated "very good." Front-loaders did better, as did a new type of high-efficiency top-loader that lacks a central agitator. But even though these newer types of washers cost about twice as much as conventional top-loaders, overall they didn't clean as well as the 1996 models.

The situation got so bad that the Competitive Enterprise Institute started a YouTube protest campaign, "Send Your Underwear to the Undersecretary." With the click of a mouse, you could email your choice of virtual bloomers, boxers or Underoos to the Department of Energy. Several hundred Americans did so, but it wasn't enough to stop Congress from mandating even stronger standards a few months later.

Now Congress is at it once again. On March 10, the Senate Energy Committee held hearings on a bill to make efficiency standards even more stringent. The bill claims to implement "national consensus appliance agreements," but those in this consensus are the usual suspects: politicians pushing feel-good generalities, bureaucrats seeking expanded powers, environmentalists with little regard for American pocketbooks, and industries that stand to profit from a de facto ban on low-priced appliances. And there are green tax goodies for manufacturing high-efficiency models—the kind that already give so many tax credits to Whirlpool, for example, that the company will avoid paying taxes on its $619 million profit in 2010.

Amazingly, the consensus also includes so-called consumer groups such as the Consumer Federation of America and Consumers Union. At last week's hearing, the federation touted a survey supposedly showing overwhelming public support for higher efficiency standards. But not a single question in that survey suggested that these standards might compromise performance. Consumers Union, meanwhile, which publishes Consumer Reports, claims that new washers can't be compared to old ones—but that's belied by the very language in its articles.

We know that politics can be dirty. Who'd have guessed how literal a truth this is?

Mr. Kazman is general counsel of the Competitive Enterprise Institute.

Original article posted at http://online.wsj.co...202212717670514


How to Replace the Custom Door Panels on a Frigidaire FGHC2331PF0 French Door Refrigerator

Posted by Samurai Appliance Repair Man, in Refrigerator Repair 16 August 2014 · 719 views
Frigidaire, refrigerator and 1 more...

Well, the parts list helped. I must say that this was the easiest door change on a side by side with a dispenser I've ever done.
Not sure if this will help anyone but I promised to post something and here it is. Please forgive typos and such...

Disconnect power.
Open freezer and turn off the ice maker.
Remove the top hinge cover and disconnect the three molex connectors - no need to disconnect or shut off the water supply.
Remove the ground screw from the top hinge.
Remove the front grill or kick plate.
Disconnect the water line at the bottom of the door, leaving the John Guest fitting off the line, but still attached to the line from under the refer.
Loosen and remove the two 3/8 screws on the top hinge and carefully remove the hinge and set atop the refer, while holding the door, then pick the door up and set on a flat surface.
Look up into the dispenser and note the two screws holding the narrow plastic cover - remove the narrow plastic cover.
Note the two black colored screws holding the dispenser display and remove the two screws.
Gingerly pull the display away from the dispenser and disconnect the mini wire harnesses.
Take a photo of the remaining dispenser wiring and store it on your phone to refer during reassembly.
Note the two silver colored screws holding the dispenser, and the green ground wire clipped to the upper portion of the door skin.
Remove the ground wire by pushing it off with your finger.
Note the black plastic zip tie holding the water line in place and remove the zip tie.
Note the proximity of the electronic circuit board on the dispenser and use care not to allow water to drip onto it during the next step.
Remove the two silver colored screws and carefully extract the dispenser assembly, while removing the water line from the three clips, and disconnecting the wire connectors.
Remove the wire harness by gently pulling it up through the top of the door and feed it into the new door.
Remove the water line by gently pulling it up through the dispenser area and re feed it into the new door, through the dispenser first and pushing it toward the bottom. Leave about two inches exposed at the bottom.
Carefully remove the plastic sheeting covering the new door around the edges and the gasket area, but leave it intact on the face of the door.
Using a 3/32 allen key remove the two screws holding the handle and gently lift the handle and set aside. Use a 3/8 tool to remove the holding bolts and place on the new door and tighten. Re attach the handle and tighten.
Remove the gasket from the old door and place onto the new door. It's easy!
Re install the dispenser into the new door and place the water line into the three clips, careful not to allow any water drops to spill onto the circuit board.
Carefully place the door back onto the refer and attach the top hinge and two screws, aligning the door. Tighten the screws. Connect the ground wire, but do not connect the three molex connectors yet!
Connect the water line at the bottom and pull the excess back up and into the dispenser area. You may have to play with the length of tubing until it sits right.
Re connect the wiring.
Re attach the green ground clip and wire to the under side of the dispenser area - refer to your photo!
Check your work with the photo on your camera. Check the route of the water line and ensure it is relaxed and correctly positioned.
Connect the wires remaining to the display board and re attach the display.
Re attach the cosmetic faceplate.
Connect the three molex connectors and replace the cosmetic hinge cover. Plug the unit back in.
If you get a trouble code like I did, the unit will beep for about five minutes and then suddenly stop and return to normal display.
It's a snap to change. Remove the rest of the plastic cover protecting the door skin, turn on the ice maker, don't forget the plastic compartments on the inside of the door, and collect!

Parts manual for further insight: http://appliantology...r-parts-manual/


Source: Fridgidaire, Refer, FGHC2331PF0, door replacement, freezer, refer, both






Like - Plus - Connect - View

Facebook-icon50x50.png google-plus-icon-50x50.png YouTube-icon50x50.png

Find Parts & Diagrams Here

Looking for Appliance Parts? Enter your model number, part number, or even a part description and find it here. 365-day return policy on all parts purchased here, even electrical parts that have been installed!

Search My Blog

Latest Visitors

Random Album Image

Replacing The Thermistors In A GE Bottom Mount Refrigerator, P.4

20 user(s) viewing

2 members, 18 guests, 0 anonymous users


ezrider58, DanInKansas


FAQs | Store | Memberships | Repair Videos | Academy | Newsletter | Beer Fund | Contact


Use the Appliantology Parts Finder to Get What You Need!
Enter a model number, part number, type of appliance, brand, or even a part description.
365-day return policy on all parts purchased here, even electrical parts that have been installed!

Your Sometimes-Lucid Host:
Samurai Appliance Repair Man
"If I can't help you fix your appliance and make you 100% satisfied, I will come to your home and slice open my belly,
spilling my steaming entrails onto your floor."


The Appliance Guru | Master Samurai Tech

Real Time Analytics