Samurai Appliance Repair Man's Blog

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If you're working on a GE refrigerator that's dead in the water and you've checked for a good 120vac power supply right up to the J11 connector on the muthaboard, then try this troubleshooting tip from Brother BryanS:

Sometimes a shorted fan motor can give you that same scenario. You can try unplugging j2 fan connector and see if the compressor comes on. If it does then you need to just determine which motor is shorted. I've only this happen to me once and it was the evap motor.

The muthaboard diagram below shows the location of the J2 connector of which Brother BryanS speaks:



You can see a bigger version of the muthaboard diagram here.


If it the refrigerator starts running with the J2 connector unplugged, you should replace BOTH the affected fan motor (usually the evaporator fan) AND the muthaboard.   See this topic for a heads-up about getting the correct evaporator fan motor for your model.  


To learn more about your refrigerator or to order parts, click here.


Source: GE Ref PDS22SCRBRSS No control board operation

Brother Durham explains the diagnostic test kit available for GE refrigerators:

If you do a lot of GE fridge repairs, you may benefit by getting a diagnostic aid shown in the following video. It is, in essence, nothing but a control panel that you can use and will bypass the one in your fridge,  whether it is a similar panel, knobs or lcd screen control found at the dispenser. With such a panel, if you connect it and everything works, then you will be certain you have a bad control panel.  

btw, the part numbers needed for the aid have been changed. Instead of the three parts mentioned in the video, you need two WR55X10390 (interface and touch panel kit) and WX05X14999 ( wire harness). I got one a few weeks ago and it paid for itself in a few days.

ps you  can make one of these by removing a 5  key control interface from an otherwise dead GE and then purchase the harness.

To learn more about your refrigerator or to buy parts, click here.


Source: GE Ref PDS22SCRBRSS No control board operation

One of the little secrets in the appliance manufacturing world is that the manufacturers will often build appliances for each other. One example of this is certain models of GE dryers are actually built by Frigidaire but sold under the GE label.

There are two maintenance kits out there for Frigidaire-built dryers:

- part number 5304461262 for the older-style units and

- part number 5304457724 for the newer-style units.

What's the difference? Click each of the links and above and carefully examine the photos of the parts included with each kit and try to spot the difference.

Give up? Okay, Brother vee8power, one of the wise and esteemed Master Appliantologists here at the Academy, explains the difference:

Looking at the parts breakdown for that model, it looks to me like the correct maintenance kit for your dryer is this one
http://www.repaircli...4457724/1198622

Notice in the picture that the upper felt does not have the three plastic glides. That's because the plastic glide on your dryer is attached to the drum, it is the newer design.

The 5304461262 mentioned above is for the older design, with no plastic glide on the front of the drum.
Another thing worth noting is that this is a GE brand dryer but it is built by Frigidaire. The part #'s for the kits are Frigidaire numbers. You won't find them on the parts breakdown for a GE.

Knowing how parts interchange is one way us professionals can save our customers, and our fellow forum members, some dough.

BTW... gas coils... Whirlpool, GE, an Frigidaire all have part numbers for exactly the same part. Guess which one is Generally most Expensive

To learn more about your dryer or to order parts, click here.


Source: Squeeky GE Profile gas dryer model #DPXH46GF

You can also verify by doing the test the Brother Kurtius prescribed, reprinted here for your viewing pleasure:

1. Remove receiver board (right side) and insert wire into plug in black/black-white wire locations . This effectively bypasses the optics for test purposes. if you have no black/blk-white wires in the plug don’t panic, just chose the two wires beside the blank hole, not on the end.
2. test for voltage at the 4 wire harness plug, black to white and black to green…should have 120vac in both places. if not, inline fuse is open or wire is broken or separated in the liner. very bad and prolly not repairable (the broken wire not the fuse).
3. if voltage is present, hookup i/m and test at the points on the motor module head previously noted L and N…should have 120vac.
4. if voltage is present, install jumper between test points T and H…this should start the icemaker on a rotation if all the above outlined conditions are true. if it doesn’t, the motor on the module is bad. if it does start, reinstall i/m and wait till it fills and parks. remove jumpers and reinstall optics receiver. icemaker should work…if not, we have proven the icemaker assembly is good and the optics must be at fault, regardless of whether the light flashes are checking good or not.

If the board checks bad by this method, it's slam-dunk dead.

Emitter-Receiver Board

To learn more about your ice maker or to order parts, click here.


Source: KITCHENAID