GE Fridge Survival Kit:
Inverter diagnostic manual http://appliantology...nostics-manual/
Ge Icemaker technical bundle http://appliantology...0093-ice-maker/
Minimal Tools and parts:
1/4 inch 5/16 inch nut driver,
Phillips and flathead screw driver,
small alligator jumpers,
multimeter that can read 62k ohms,
thermistors, bell connectors crimper and silicone
a wr55x10942 (most commonly used board but check your model to be sure.)
Ice water slurry (before you go to the job, make sure to ask customer if there is Ice available otherwise you need to stop at a quickie mart and get some. If you forget, make sure to save some frost if there is any, before you defrost the fridge)
Good things to have but not necessary :
Ge diagnostic test kit and
thermistor magic! (shameless plug http://appliantology...ermistor-magic/)
tablet or smartphone
Adding a couple shameless plugs of my own...
How to test GE refrigerator fan motors with a 9-volt battery: http://appliantology...9-volt-battery/
How to troubleshoot GE inverter compressors: http://appliantology...ter-compressor/
A tell-tale sign that the Muthaboard in a GE refrigerator is bad: http://appliantology...gerator-is-bad/
Double-extra Special Secret Tip for Troubleshooting a GE Refrigerator that's DOA: http://appliantology...ator-thats-doa/
GE Refrigerator Muthaboard - Connector Reference Pictorial View: http://appliantology...pictorial-view/
GE Refrigerator Muthaboard - Connector Reference List: http://appliantology...reference-list/
Source: GE SxS GSS25JFMAWW
I knew I was dealing with a gas leak and had to get to the burner gas supply tubes to leak check them. I disassembled the range cooktop so I could get a look underneath the burners. Turns out this leak didn't even need gas bubble leak-check solution to find (click the pics for larger view):
That's the aluminum gas supply tubing for the LF burner. With a break like that, it's amazing that it was sending any gas at all to the burner. It was still supplying the burner with gas albeit at a reduced rate so the flames were more yellow than the other burners. The rest of the gas was flooding the compartment underneath the burners until it reached the Lower Explosive Limit (LEL) concentration for propane (which is 2.1% by volume, in case you were curious). Then the propane was in high enough concentration that it ignited from the open flame on the burner.
Range go BOOM!
Pants go brown.
So the next question is: How did this happen? Metal tubing that's not pressurized does not just spontaneously rupture.
Turns out the customer had been releasing the cooktop clips and lifting the top panel of the range without first unscrewing the burners. She would do this periodically to clean out the copious amounts of mouse poopy:
Every time she did this, however, she was flexing all the gas burner supply tubes which finally induced fatigue failure in the tube for the LF burner.
Why was the LF burner tube the first (and only, so far) to fail? Because it is the shortest tube. The other tubes, being longer, had more flex and were more forgiving.
So where are these mysterious burner screws that have to be removed? In this particular range (older GE), each burner has three mounting screws that need to be removed to release the burner base from the bottom of the cooktop panel. This way the tubing is not flexed when the cooktop is raised for cleaning or service.
What invariably happens with this design is that the mounting screws for the most-used burner (usually the RF burner for right-handed people) get rusted out like this:
Then either the head breaks off when you try to remove them or the head simply rounds out when you try to unscrew them. It's common to have to drill the screws out when this happens, which you can see in the photo above.
Moral of the story: Don't go messing with your appliances unless you know what you don't know! Just because you can undo some clips and take something apart doesn't mean you should, because there could be consequences that aren't even on your radar screen. Use the forums at The Appliantology Academy to get advice from the experts before you start mucking about with your appliances!
When dealing with gas appliances, don't assume anything: know what you don't know.
I run into this kind of problem all the time up here in the backwoods of New Hampster. It's an endemic problem with electricians and handymen not bothering to read the installation instructions. For the record, this installation fail was done by a licensed electrician. Kind of a wake up call for the whole licensing racket, isn't it? Having a "licensed" electrician is still no guarantee that he knows what in the hell he is doing or is capable of reading simple installation instructions.
In case you're interested, you can read the manufacturer's installation instructions yourself here: http://manuals.frigi...n/318206002.pdf
BTW, those specs are typical for all manufacturers.
Bottom Line with any wall oven installation: You need to have enough slack in the power wire conduit to be able to remove the wall oven from its compartment.
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How to Disassemble the Dispenser in an LG Refrigerator08 September 2014
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Want an Interesting and Lucrative Career? Skip College and Go Into Appliance Repair!Samtech - Aug 14 2014 03:02 PM
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