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Samurai Appliance Repair Man's Blog



Some tips on diagnosing the door latch assembly on a Frigidaire Gallery frontload washer that won't do high speed spin

Posted by Samurai Appliance Repair Man, in Washing Machine Repair 19 October 2011 · 3,094 views

For any frontload washer that won't go into high speed spin (but does tumble), the top three things to check are:

1. Drum pump out. No pumpy, no spinny. If the drum is not pumping all the water out before spin begins, the imbalance and/or hall effect sensors sensors in the machine will prevent it from going into high speed spin. Incomplete or no pump-out conditions are caused by a problem with the drainage system: drain pump bad or gunked up with gookus, drain hose clogged, suction boot clogged, drain pump not getting voltage.

2. Motor control board. The motor is a phase-modulated motor that is controlled by an inverter board called variously the, "motor control board" or "speed control board." This board exists for the sole purpose of controlling the motor to make it spin CM or CCW during tumble and to kick it into high gear during high speed spin.

3. Door latch assembly. On all frontloaders, the door must be locked and the control board must sense that the door is locked before it will enable spin mode. Appliantology Academy Fellow Willie gives us some handy tips for checking out the door latch assembly on the Frigidaire/Electrolux washers:


In the diagnostic cycle the door is only locked when the machine is actually spinning. If you unplug the machine you can open the door immediately with the basket still spinning. The diagnostic cycle doesn't check for the positive lock of the door with the wax motor like the actual operating cycles do. That is why it will spin in the diagnostic cycle but not in a normal mode of operation.


If it doesn't spin in a normal cycle but does do the high speed spin in the diagnostic cycle it is a bad wax motor in the door latch/lock assembly. I've never seen it not to be the case.


Part link for the door latch assembly ==> http://www.repaircli...R=154&N=1531974

Source: Frigidaire Gallery Series Frontload Washer GLTF2940FE1 - Won't enter high speed spin


How to fix a defrost drain that keeps freezing up in an Amana bottom freezer refrigerator

Posted by Samurai Appliance Repair Man, in Refrigerator Repair 11 October 2011 · 2,578 views

Grand Master RegUS_PatOff sets the table for us:

"If frost or ice is forming on freezer packages, shelving, or back wall compartment order the following kit.

Order repair kit 12002686 for both Domestic Models (115 volt) and (230 volt) International Models.
See attached Instruction Sheet for details on installing Bottom Mount Frost Kit."

TDR-0045A-B.pdf

16026499.pdf

16027094.pdf

There is also a duckbill grommet # 8201796 that can be installed over the outlet end of the drain tube.
This is the tube at the bottom of the unit, to the drain pan. It will prevent air from equalizing through the drain tube.
click on picture
Posted Image


Source: Amana bottom freezer ABB1921WEW0, defrost drain freezing up


How to test the auto load sensing switch in a Whirlpool/Kenmore 800 top loading washer

Posted by Samurai Appliance Repair Man, in Washing Machine Repair 11 October 2011 · 7,754 views

If you have the misfortune of owning one of these machines that takes away your ability to control water level (because supposedly it figures it out for you) then you need to know that you're not in Kansas anymore! These machines use an auto load sensing switch that's supposed to fill the tub with just the right amount of water based on how full it's loaded with clothes. Sounds great, right? Yeah, except it sucks.

If your washer starts agitating right away when you start it, then you may have a bad auto load sensing switch. Grand Master appl.tech.29501 enlightens us on how to test it:

You can test it by removing the 2 connectors from the load sensing switch

and then turn the machine on in the fill or wash cycle....no agitation = bad load sensing switch.

If the machine still immediately agitates with the wires disconnected from the load sensing
switch the you have a bad timer....also another problematic part with this washer.

If your feeling really lucky..I've had 2 cases when both parts are bad.....


Part link for the auto load sensing switch ==> http://www.repaircli...umber=W10177795


Source: Kenmore 800 (110.298222801)



How to test and replace the heating element in an older-model Maytag electric dryer

Posted by Samurai Appliance Repair Man, in Dryer Repair 10 October 2011 · 1,615 views

Unplug the dryer and remove the front panel to get access to the heating element. This video has dissassembly and replacement instructions:

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=eTTozln6YzM

And this video shows you how to test the heating element to see if it's grounded against the casing:

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=wq-3zsiBID8

Here's the part link for the heating element ==> http://www.repaircli...mber=MDE8600AYW


Source: Maytag MDE8600AYW runs too hot






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