Jump to content


Use this Search Box to Find Appliance Repair Help Now
Need help finding your model number?
365-day return policy on all parts purchased here, even electrical parts that have been installed!


FAQs | Store | Memberships | Repair Videos | Academy | Newsletter | Beer Fund | Contact


Welcome to Appliantology.org, the Web's Premiere Appliance Repair Resource for DIYers!

The world-famous Samurai Appliance Repair Forums


You can post a question and get repair help for FREE! Click here to get started.


Already a member of the Appliantology Academy? Just sign in with your username and password in the upper right-hand corner of the screen.

 


Samurai Appliance Repair Man's Blog



The Willie Method ™ for testing the radiant (flame) sensor in a gas dryer burner

Posted by Samurai Appliance Repair Man, in Dryer Repair 19 September 2011 · 2,564 views
Willie, method, radiant, sensor and 1 more...
Gas dryer not firing up and all the components of the burner check out good but you're not sure how to check that flame sensor on the side of the burner tube? Samurai Appliance Repair Academy Fellow Budget Appliance Repair (a.k.a., Willie) reveals the wax on-wax off moves for testing the radiant sensor in a gas dryer.

The full way to bypass and test if the radiant sensor is the problem:
1) UNPLUG DRYER FIRST!
2) remove both wires from the radiant sensor
3) bypass the sensor by sliding the two connector terminals together and make sure they are away from everything
4) plug the dryer back in and set to a timer position that should heat.
5) start dryer and and watch for igniter to start glowing.
6) if the igniter glows wait about 10 to 12 seconds and pull the two wires apart carefully making sure not to touch the ends or short them to anything.
7) if all else is OK with the dryer the flame should light up when you separate the two radiant sensor wires
8) if the above all works OK and it didn't before then replacing the radiant sensor should fix your problem.


Here's the part link for the replacement radiant sensor ==> Flame Sensor

This video shows you how to replace it:




Source: Maytag gas dryer LDG9334AAE not heating--can I jump a Radiant Sensor?


How to fix a GE Monogram ZISS420 refrigerator that freezes everything in the beer compartment

Posted by Samurai Appliance Repair Man, in Refrigerator Repair 19 September 2011 · 1,618 views

Sublime Master KurtiusInterruptus reveals this special repair kata:

This one is pretty simple...betcha the damper door is broken off it hinge.

to access,remove the light lens and frame from the top of the fridge compartment...carefully disassemble the Styrofoam housing at the top left corner...may need to cut the silicon with a box knife to assist in this.
feast yer squintys on the black damper door inside...is it laying askew, broken off the hinge?
well there you are!


Source: GE Monogram Fridge - is freezing. ZISS420MRESS


The Willie Method ™ for testing a microwave oven magnetron tube

Posted by Samurai Appliance Repair Man, in Microwave Oven 18 September 2011 · 6,060 views
Willie, method, microwave and 1 more...
Sometimes, when you're troubleshooting a microwave, it can be tricky to tell whether or not the magnetron tube is bad. In the case with many GE microwaves, the magnetron can test good according to the filament resistance specifications yet fail when you're actually trying to get the damn thing to heat up your bagel.

One of the outstanding Master Appliantologists at Appliantology.org, Budget Appliance Repair (a.k.a., Willie) offered the following procedure for assessing the operational state of the magnetron:

Disconnect the two wires going to the magtube and set it for 20-30 seconds and run it. If no abnormal noises and no smell with magtube disconnected, (MAKE SURE BOTH WIRES THAT ARE DISCONNECTED FROM THE MAGTUBE ARE SAFELY AWAY FROM EVERYTHING AND MAKE SURE NOT TO GET NEAR THEM!!!!!!!), the most likely problem is a bad magtube.

If you short the capacitor, carefully with an insulated screwdriver after doing the above test and it sparks you can be pretty sure
the magtube is bad also.

If everything else checks OK and the smell is kind of a sweet plastic burning smell, (I don't know how else to explain it but once you've smell it once you will know for sure the next time), then it's for sure a bad magtube.



Source: Advantium 220 microwave electrical burning smell


And more from another post:

Do you also notice what seems to be a louder then normal buzzing/vibrating noise.

If so, take an amp reading and see how many amps the unit is drawing, (the one I worked on only came up to around 2.4 - 2.6 amps), and you could smell that burning magtube smell after a minute or so of running.

Then pull the two wires of the magtube and make sure the are away from everything and start it up again and see what the amp reading is, (I got around 5.6 amps and the heavy vibration noise wasn't there any more).

A good working microwave will draw about 2 - 3 amps when first started and in about 3 seconds, (after the filament is warmed up), you will see the amp draw come up the the full 11 - 12 amps that a microwave will pull. If you listen carefully when a magtube ramps up power, (you will here a real light buzz noise after the filament warms up), you will see how that corresponds to the amp raise.


Source: GE OTR Microwave JVM1871SH001


How to troubleshoot a Panasonic microwave oven with an H95 error code

Posted by Samurai Appliance Repair Man, in Microwave Oven 16 September 2011 · 941 views

Master appl.tech offers these tips:

Ensure your filament leads on the magnatron aren't open (open = bad)


need to verify that your getting 120V to the inverter (if not = bad board)

the 2 signal wires to the inverter should be showing 3VAC from the board (if not = bad board)

If the above all check good then you have a bad inverter.



Source: Panasonic Microwave NN-SD277W


How to replace the plastic condenser fan motor kit in an Amana-Kenmore refrigerator

Posted by Samurai Appliance Repair Man, in Refrigerator Repair 16 September 2011 · 1,243 views

This is kind of a funky little condenser fan motor kit to install and can be confusing, especially since the kit doesn't come with destructions.

Here's the condenser fan motor kit ==> http://www.repaircli...2002738/1256875

Just be sure to use wire ties to secure fan motor leads back away from fan motor blade. This will prevent leads from blocking condenser fan blade.

Master Willie offers some additional insight and analysis:

I've never had to do one of these but from all I can see in the pictures it does appear that the three metal arms screw to the new plastic motor. It looks like the flat end of the arms have a hole in that end and would screw directly onto the new motor like the old big A/C condenser fan motors, (maybe using the rubber bushings, do they have a metal insert inside the bushings so you can't tighten them down too hard? It doesn't really look like they do).


From the RepairClinic picture it doesn't look like it comes with screws so maybe the three screws that held the old motor mounting shroud on are used to hold the arms on the motor.

Then it would appear that the "L" shaped end of each arm should screw to the flat sheet metal plate that is still in the refrig compressor compartment, but as you say there are no screw holes in that end of the arm. The picture doesn't show that end of the mounting arms, is that end a flat the same width as the rest of the arm or are those "L" ends just a small metal tab on the end of each arm? if they are just a small tab maybe they just slide into the screw holes that held the plastic motor mounting shroud in place, (put them in first then screw the motor in place on the end of the arms).

Not obvious what the tie straps are for and if the "L" ends are tabs and just slide thru the original three screw holes, (they look to long to hold it tight against the metal mounting plate), then maybe the wire ties are used somehow to hold the motor and new brackets up solid against the sheet metal mounting plate.

EDITED TO ADD THE FOLLOWING WHICH I BELIEVE IS THE CORRECT MOUNTING.

The other possibility is the three arms mount direct to the new plastic motor and the three rubber bushings push into the flat sheet metal mounting plate, (it would appear they would be to big to fit the original holes so maybe you have to drill the old mounting screw holes out large enough to accept the rubber bushings and the "L" tab end of the brackets mount in the rubber bushings).

Found another model that uses the same fan shroud that had the old big A/C condenser motor and it mounts in the way described above and looking up the fan motor on another site shows that it does in-fact come with three screws to mount the arms onto the fan motor. It also appears that there maybe two sets of mounting holes in the fan shroud, three small ones for the screws to mount the plastic fan holder and three larger ones that accept the mounting grommets. Looks like the "L" tab end of the arms are just the right length to hold tight in the rubber mounting grommets so don't really know what the tie straps would be for.

See Amana model# XRBS209BWR (click the picture and you can see better detail of the two different size holes in the fan shroud, one for grommets the other for screws. Part ref#5 in this picture are the rubber mounting grommets.)

Posted Image


Source: kenmore 59652673202 Fridge






Like - Plus - Connect - View

Facebook-icon50x50.png google-plus-icon-50x50.png YouTube-icon50x50.png

Find Parts & Diagrams Here

Looking for Appliance Parts? Enter your model number, part number, or even a part description and find it here. 365-day return policy on all parts purchased here, even electrical parts that have been installed!

Search My Blog

Latest Visitors

Random Album Image

Whirlpool Modular Icemaker Tech Sheet

38 user(s) viewing

0 members, 38 guests, 0 anonymous users


FAQs | Store | Memberships | Repair Videos | Academy | Newsletter | Beer Fund | Contact


Use the Appliantology Parts Finder to Get What You Need!
Enter a model number, part number, type of appliance, brand, or even a part description.
365-day return policy on all parts purchased here, even electrical parts that have been installed!

Your Sometimes-Lucid Host:
Samurai Appliance Repair Man
"If I can't help you fix your appliance and make you 100% satisfied, I will come to your home and slice open my belly,
spilling my steaming entrails onto your floor."

The Appliance Guru | AppliancePartsResource.com | Samurai's Blog

Real Time Analytics