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How to retrieve the error codes and enter diagnostic mode in a Whirlpool Duet Sport - Kenmore front load washer

Posted by Samurai Appliance Repair Man, in Washing Machine Repair 22 September 2011 · 5,044 views

If your washer stops mid-wash or starts flashing an error code or won't start at all, the first thing you'll want to do is retrieve any error codes that may be stored in the control module. This can give you a clue on where to start hunting for the problem. Grand Master Reg has posted the procedure for entering service mode in your washer so you can read any stored error codes and run the built-in diagnostic program:

Starting Service History Mode & Diagnostic


NOTE: The washer must be empty and the control must be in the OFF state
before pressing the touch-pad sequence to start the test.
1. Close the door.
2. Select any one key (except STOP) and follow the steps below,
using the same key (remember the key):
Press/hold 4 seconds
➔ Release for 4 seconds
➔ Press/hold 4 seconds
➔ Release for 4 seconds
➔ Press/hold 4 seconds
3. Upon release, all console LED lights will turn on for 5 seconds.
4. If there are any failure codes, all cycle LED lights will flash
and the appropriate Status LEDs will turn on.
The Estimated Time Remaining display will display failure code (if available).
NOTES: This program recalls the most recent failure code first.
■ Press the same key to advance to the next failure code.
(If the console doesn’t change then the same failure code was stored multiple times.)
■ If there aren’t any more failure codes all the lights on the console will turn on for 5 seconds.
■ Next the washer begins the Diagnostic Test.
■ To cancel out of service mode press STOP.
(This exits you out of the program.)


Source: Kenmore Front Loader Flashing Lights Mod#110.46462501


How to retrieve the error codes in a Frigidaire Affinity front load washer

Posted by Samurai Appliance Repair Man, in Washing Machine Repair 20 September 2011 · 7,070 views

If you're having a problem with your Frigidaire washer, such as it won't start, one of the first things you'll want to do is get any error codes that may be stored in the control board. This can help point you in the right direction for finding and fixing the problem. Grand Master Reg gives us the key dance for this little procedure:

READING ERROR CODES:

1. Wake the washer by pressing any button.
2. Wait 5 seconds.
3. Press and HOLD the Start/Pause and Cancel buttons simultaneously.
As long as the buttons are held,
the failure code will appear in the display as an E followed by two numbers, a number and a letter or two letters.
The control will beep and the Door Lock, Wash, Rinse, and Final Spin indicator lights will flash



Source: Frigidare Affinity ATF7000EG0 won't start


The Willie Method ™ for testing the radiant (flame) sensor in a gas dryer burner

Posted by Samurai Appliance Repair Man, in Dryer Repair 19 September 2011 · 2,639 views
Willie, method, radiant, sensor and 1 more...
Gas dryer not firing up and all the components of the burner check out good but you're not sure how to check that flame sensor on the side of the burner tube? Samurai Appliance Repair Academy Fellow Budget Appliance Repair (a.k.a., Willie) reveals the wax on-wax off moves for testing the radiant sensor in a gas dryer.

The full way to bypass and test if the radiant sensor is the problem:
1) UNPLUG DRYER FIRST!
2) remove both wires from the radiant sensor
3) bypass the sensor by sliding the two connector terminals together and make sure they are away from everything
4) plug the dryer back in and set to a timer position that should heat.
5) start dryer and and watch for igniter to start glowing.
6) if the igniter glows wait about 10 to 12 seconds and pull the two wires apart carefully making sure not to touch the ends or short them to anything.
7) if all else is OK with the dryer the flame should light up when you separate the two radiant sensor wires
8) if the above all works OK and it didn't before then replacing the radiant sensor should fix your problem.


Here's the part link for the replacement radiant sensor ==> Flame Sensor

This video shows you how to replace it:




Source: Maytag gas dryer LDG9334AAE not heating--can I jump a Radiant Sensor?


How to fix a GE Monogram ZISS420 refrigerator that freezes everything in the beer compartment

Posted by Samurai Appliance Repair Man, in Refrigerator Repair 19 September 2011 · 1,627 views

Sublime Master KurtiusInterruptus reveals this special repair kata:

This one is pretty simple...betcha the damper door is broken off it hinge.

to access,remove the light lens and frame from the top of the fridge compartment...carefully disassemble the Styrofoam housing at the top left corner...may need to cut the silicon with a box knife to assist in this.
feast yer squintys on the black damper door inside...is it laying askew, broken off the hinge?
well there you are!


Source: GE Monogram Fridge - is freezing. ZISS420MRESS


The Willie Method ™ for testing a microwave oven magnetron tube

Posted by Samurai Appliance Repair Man, in Microwave Oven 18 September 2011 · 6,251 views
Willie, method, microwave and 1 more...
Sometimes, when you're troubleshooting a microwave, it can be tricky to tell whether or not the magnetron tube is bad. In the case with many GE microwaves, the magnetron can test good according to the filament resistance specifications yet fail when you're actually trying to get the damn thing to heat up your bagel.

One of the outstanding Master Appliantologists at Appliantology.org, Budget Appliance Repair (a.k.a., Willie) offered the following procedure for assessing the operational state of the magnetron:

Disconnect the two wires going to the magtube and set it for 20-30 seconds and run it. If no abnormal noises and no smell with magtube disconnected, (MAKE SURE BOTH WIRES THAT ARE DISCONNECTED FROM THE MAGTUBE ARE SAFELY AWAY FROM EVERYTHING AND MAKE SURE NOT TO GET NEAR THEM!!!!!!!), the most likely problem is a bad magtube.

If you short the capacitor, carefully with an insulated screwdriver after doing the above test and it sparks you can be pretty sure
the magtube is bad also.

If everything else checks OK and the smell is kind of a sweet plastic burning smell, (I don't know how else to explain it but once you've smell it once you will know for sure the next time), then it's for sure a bad magtube.



Source: Advantium 220 microwave electrical burning smell


And more from another post:

Do you also notice what seems to be a louder then normal buzzing/vibrating noise.

If so, take an amp reading and see how many amps the unit is drawing, (the one I worked on only came up to around 2.4 - 2.6 amps), and you could smell that burning magtube smell after a minute or so of running.

Then pull the two wires of the magtube and make sure the are away from everything and start it up again and see what the amp reading is, (I got around 5.6 amps and the heavy vibration noise wasn't there any more).

A good working microwave will draw about 2 - 3 amps when first started and in about 3 seconds, (after the filament is warmed up), you will see the amp draw come up the the full 11 - 12 amps that a microwave will pull. If you listen carefully when a magtube ramps up power, (you will here a real light buzz noise after the filament warms up), you will see how that corresponds to the amp raise.


Source: GE OTR Microwave JVM1871SH001






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