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Samurai Appliance Repair Man's Blog



How to adjust the water fill amount in a Samsung refrigerator ice maker

Posted by Samurai Appliance Repair Man, in Icemaker Repair 02 November 2011 · 3,547 views

Grand Master Funk kdog calls out the keyboard dance steps for this adjustment:

It's kind of complicated to make the adjustment, only 2 ice levels are available - 85cc fill and 95cc fill, Initially the unit comes set for the 85cc fill and would have needed to be increased to be on the high setting.

Press and hold "Freezer" button and "Power cool" (the middle button on left, and upper on right) - hold them simultaneously for 12 seconds, and the control will enter an adjustment mode. The displays on the left side will show a code, and the display on the right will show a reference or adjustment segment. You want the number on the right to display "2" (one of the r/h keys will cause the number to change), once it shows "2" - the work the l/h keys to make the left display number show "0". Once you have these numbers displayed, do not input anymore and 20 or 30 seconds later, the control will store the setting and go back to normal display mode.




Source: Samsung refrigerator rf265aabp ice maker adjustment


What are PTC compressor start relays?

Posted by Samurai Appliance Repair Man, in Refrigerator Repair 29 October 2011 · 6,425 views
PTC, compressor, refrigerator and 1 more...
PTC stands for Positive Temperature Coefficient. This refers to the silicon guts inside the relay whose resistance increases as its temperature rises. When the compressor first starts up, the resistance of the PTC stuff is very low and it lets current flow into the start winding of the compressor. As the current flows thru the PTC, it heats it up and also raises its resistance to the point that the start winding is effectively taken out of the circuit, which is what you want to happen as soon as the compressor gets going.

Back in the good ol' days, compressor start relays were the mechanical type. This was a metal plunger inside a tube with a heavy gauge copper coil wrapped around it. As current flows thru the copper coil, it creates a magnetic field that moved the metal slug up and took the compressor start winding out of the circuit thata way.

Grand Master Funk kdog has put together some examples showing common PTC compressor relays and a good ol' mechanical, non-PTC type relay; click the links above the pics for a larger view or to order the part:

Some common examples:

http://www.repaircli.../4387535/586234

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http://www.repaircli...ent/819099/2668
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http://www.repaircli...7005560/1159182

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http://www.repaircli...8201802/1177468

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This is what a NON-PTC starter looks like:


http://www.repaircli...2258450/1026578

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Source: Whirlpool acronym


How to remove the top panel on a Maytag MGD9600 gas dryer

Posted by Samurai Appliance Repair Man, in Dryer Repair 22 October 2011 · 1,233 views

Piece of pie, tovarish! Grand Master RegUS_PatOff calls the dance steps:

Remove the three hex-head screws from the rear flange of the dryer’s top cover.
Lift the rear of the top cover and slide it back so the tabs clear the catches on the bracket,
and remove the cover from the unit.
NOTE: Make sure that the tabs slide under the bracket catches when you reinstall the top cover.



Source: Maytag MGD9600SQ0 Gas Dryer - How to Remove Cover?


Some tips on diagnosing the door latch assembly on a Frigidaire Gallery frontload washer that won't do high speed spin

Posted by Samurai Appliance Repair Man, in Washing Machine Repair 19 October 2011 · 3,298 views

For any frontload washer that won't go into high speed spin (but does tumble), the top three things to check are:

1. Drum pump out. No pumpy, no spinny. If the drum is not pumping all the water out before spin begins, the imbalance and/or hall effect sensors sensors in the machine will prevent it from going into high speed spin. Incomplete or no pump-out conditions are caused by a problem with the drainage system: drain pump bad or gunked up with gookus, drain hose clogged, suction boot clogged, drain pump not getting voltage.

2. Motor control board. The motor is a phase-modulated motor that is controlled by an inverter board called variously the, "motor control board" or "speed control board." This board exists for the sole purpose of controlling the motor to make it spin CM or CCW during tumble and to kick it into high gear during high speed spin.

3. Door latch assembly. On all frontloaders, the door must be locked and the control board must sense that the door is locked before it will enable spin mode. Appliantology Academy Fellow Willie gives us some handy tips for checking out the door latch assembly on the Frigidaire/Electrolux washers:


In the diagnostic cycle the door is only locked when the machine is actually spinning. If you unplug the machine you can open the door immediately with the basket still spinning. The diagnostic cycle doesn't check for the positive lock of the door with the wax motor like the actual operating cycles do. That is why it will spin in the diagnostic cycle but not in a normal mode of operation.


If it doesn't spin in a normal cycle but does do the high speed spin in the diagnostic cycle it is a bad wax motor in the door latch/lock assembly. I've never seen it not to be the case.


Part link for the door latch assembly ==> http://www.repaircli...R=154&N=1531974

Source: Frigidaire Gallery Series Frontload Washer GLTF2940FE1 - Won't enter high speed spin


How to fix a defrost drain that keeps freezing up in an Amana bottom freezer refrigerator

Posted by Samurai Appliance Repair Man, in Refrigerator Repair 11 October 2011 · 2,747 views

Grand Master RegUS_PatOff sets the table for us:

"If frost or ice is forming on freezer packages, shelving, or back wall compartment order the following kit.

Order repair kit 12002686 for both Domestic Models (115 volt) and (230 volt) International Models.
See attached Instruction Sheet for details on installing Bottom Mount Frost Kit."

TDR-0045A-B.pdf

16026499.pdf

16027094.pdf

There is also a duckbill grommet # 8201796 that can be installed over the outlet end of the drain tube.
This is the tube at the bottom of the unit, to the drain pan. It will prevent air from equalizing through the drain tube.
click on picture
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Source: Amana bottom freezer ABB1921WEW0, defrost drain freezing up






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