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The Willie Method ™ for testing a microwave oven magnetron tube

Posted by Samurai Appliance Repair Man, in Microwave Oven 18 September 2011 · 6,541 views
Willie, method, microwave and 1 more...
Sometimes, when you're troubleshooting a microwave, it can be tricky to tell whether or not the magnetron tube is bad. In the case with many GE microwaves, the magnetron can test good according to the filament resistance specifications yet fail when you're actually trying to get the damn thing to heat up your bagel.

One of the outstanding Master Appliantologists at Appliantology.org, Budget Appliance Repair (a.k.a., Willie) offered the following procedure for assessing the operational state of the magnetron:

Disconnect the two wires going to the magtube and set it for 20-30 seconds and run it. If no abnormal noises and no smell with magtube disconnected, (MAKE SURE BOTH WIRES THAT ARE DISCONNECTED FROM THE MAGTUBE ARE SAFELY AWAY FROM EVERYTHING AND MAKE SURE NOT TO GET NEAR THEM!!!!!!!), the most likely problem is a bad magtube.

If you short the capacitor, carefully with an insulated screwdriver after doing the above test and it sparks you can be pretty sure
the magtube is bad also.

If everything else checks OK and the smell is kind of a sweet plastic burning smell, (I don't know how else to explain it but once you've smell it once you will know for sure the next time), then it's for sure a bad magtube.



Source: Advantium 220 microwave electrical burning smell


And more from another post:

Do you also notice what seems to be a louder then normal buzzing/vibrating noise.

If so, take an amp reading and see how many amps the unit is drawing, (the one I worked on only came up to around 2.4 - 2.6 amps), and you could smell that burning magtube smell after a minute or so of running.

Then pull the two wires of the magtube and make sure the are away from everything and start it up again and see what the amp reading is, (I got around 5.6 amps and the heavy vibration noise wasn't there any more).

A good working microwave will draw about 2 - 3 amps when first started and in about 3 seconds, (after the filament is warmed up), you will see the amp draw come up the the full 11 - 12 amps that a microwave will pull. If you listen carefully when a magtube ramps up power, (you will here a real light buzz noise after the filament warms up), you will see how that corresponds to the amp raise.


Source: GE OTR Microwave JVM1871SH001


How to troubleshoot a Panasonic microwave oven with an H95 error code

Posted by Samurai Appliance Repair Man, in Microwave Oven 16 September 2011 · 969 views

Master appl.tech offers these tips:

Ensure your filament leads on the magnatron aren't open (open = bad)


need to verify that your getting 120V to the inverter (if not = bad board)

the 2 signal wires to the inverter should be showing 3VAC from the board (if not = bad board)

If the above all check good then you have a bad inverter.



Source: Panasonic Microwave NN-SD277W


How to replace the plastic condenser fan motor kit in an Amana-Kenmore refrigerator

Posted by Samurai Appliance Repair Man, in Refrigerator Repair 16 September 2011 · 1,312 views

This is kind of a funky little condenser fan motor kit to install and can be confusing, especially since the kit doesn't come with destructions.

Here's the condenser fan motor kit ==> http://www.repaircli...2002738/1256875

Just be sure to use wire ties to secure fan motor leads back away from fan motor blade. This will prevent leads from blocking condenser fan blade.

Master Willie offers some additional insight and analysis:

I've never had to do one of these but from all I can see in the pictures it does appear that the three metal arms screw to the new plastic motor. It looks like the flat end of the arms have a hole in that end and would screw directly onto the new motor like the old big A/C condenser fan motors, (maybe using the rubber bushings, do they have a metal insert inside the bushings so you can't tighten them down too hard? It doesn't really look like they do).


From the RepairClinic picture it doesn't look like it comes with screws so maybe the three screws that held the old motor mounting shroud on are used to hold the arms on the motor.

Then it would appear that the "L" shaped end of each arm should screw to the flat sheet metal plate that is still in the refrig compressor compartment, but as you say there are no screw holes in that end of the arm. The picture doesn't show that end of the mounting arms, is that end a flat the same width as the rest of the arm or are those "L" ends just a small metal tab on the end of each arm? if they are just a small tab maybe they just slide into the screw holes that held the plastic motor mounting shroud in place, (put them in first then screw the motor in place on the end of the arms).

Not obvious what the tie straps are for and if the "L" ends are tabs and just slide thru the original three screw holes, (they look to long to hold it tight against the metal mounting plate), then maybe the wire ties are used somehow to hold the motor and new brackets up solid against the sheet metal mounting plate.

EDITED TO ADD THE FOLLOWING WHICH I BELIEVE IS THE CORRECT MOUNTING.

The other possibility is the three arms mount direct to the new plastic motor and the three rubber bushings push into the flat sheet metal mounting plate, (it would appear they would be to big to fit the original holes so maybe you have to drill the old mounting screw holes out large enough to accept the rubber bushings and the "L" tab end of the brackets mount in the rubber bushings).

Found another model that uses the same fan shroud that had the old big A/C condenser motor and it mounts in the way described above and looking up the fan motor on another site shows that it does in-fact come with three screws to mount the arms onto the fan motor. It also appears that there maybe two sets of mounting holes in the fan shroud, three small ones for the screws to mount the plastic fan holder and three larger ones that accept the mounting grommets. Looks like the "L" tab end of the arms are just the right length to hold tight in the rubber mounting grommets so don't really know what the tie straps would be for.

See Amana model# XRBS209BWR (click the picture and you can see better detail of the two different size holes in the fan shroud, one for grommets the other for screws. Part ref#5 in this picture are the rubber mounting grommets.)

Posted Image


Source: kenmore 59652673202 Fridge


How to fix an LG front loading washer that won't complete final spin gives UE error

Posted by Samurai Appliance Repair Man, in Washing Machine Repair 14 September 2011 · 4,533 views

The UE error code is an imbalance error. If you've recently moved the washer from one location to another, then you have to think about transport and new working location for the washer.

Transport: See this post ==> All about those elusive shipping bolts that come with LG front loading washers

New Location: Brother john63 catechizes us in his latest sermon. Let's listen:

<<<The tub does shake excessively at times>>>


***********

Inspect the STRUTS (similar to car shock absorbers).

Remove the rear access panel and with a bright flashlight---verify that all 3 STRUTS are still in their correct position.
When moving a front load washer without the SHIPPING BOLTS---there's a risk of one or more STRUT separating (it's a 2 piece design).

If a STRUT was found to be separated---it's very likely that the FRICTION PADS fell off and are missing. Simply reconnecting the STRUT without the FRICTION PADS will cause the same symptoms as NOT having a STRUT at all.

An LG washer that remains "stuck" on 9 minutes remaining is usually caused by an imbalance-condition (hence--the "UE" error).

If the STRUTS are fine---then the WOOD FLOOR is likely the culprit. Leveling the *front legs* during a SPIN RAMP-UP is the only way to *minimize* excessive shaking & annoying "stuck on 9 minutes/wet laundry" complaints.

Your washer was made in August 2007.

Beginning November 2008---all LG washers are designed for WOOD FLOOR use (anti-vibration components were added).

Depending on the condition/stoutness of the WOOD FLOOR---it may be impossible to remove excessive SPIN VIBRATION entirely.

**************

<<<it sounds like a pump is starting to run then I hear gurgling from the drain hose then the pump sound shuts off.>>>

**************

Normal.

**************

<<<Could the main board have been messed up with the water that was spraying allover left rear area of the internals?>>>

**************

No.

**************

<<<Most of the time it will sit at 9 minutes remaining with the tub slowly spinning one direction, stopping, then spinning slowly in the other direction then a UE error appears.>>>

**************

The MAIN BOARD is detecting excessive tub shake/wobble----and is attempting to re-distribute the laundry load in the tub before making another HIGH SPEED SPIN ATTEMPT. If the tub cannot be made to be stabilized on **ramp-up**---the MAIN BOARD will **abort** the fast-spin portion of the SPIN CYCLE. Eventually---the MAIN BOARD will default/time-out and end the cycle leaving laundry wet.

**************

<<<I will check the levelness of the unit>>>

**************

Once the washer has been leveled----put the LEVELING TOOL away. It will *never again* be needed for the washer (until the washer is moved again).

Leveling a washer is more for ***cosmetic reasons*** than for maintaining a smooth spin performance.

A front load washer that is slight lower on the left side (but all 4 legs of the washer are flat on the floor) will perform just as smoothly as a washer that is truly level.

A front load washer with the front of the washer slightly raised/higher on the front---will offer the same spin cycle smoothness as a washer that is dead level (as long as all of the legs are flat on the floor).

The cause of excessive vibration (delayed spin cycle) is from other factors such as WOOD FLOOR/disconnected STRUT/etc.

My gut feeling in your case is that---possibly one of the STRUTS came apart during shipping/handling.

Good luck!


Source: LG WM2487HWM won't complete final spin gives UE error


How to fix a Samsung washer with an ND error code

Posted by Samurai Appliance Repair Man, in Washing Machine Repair 14 September 2011 · 5,572 views

In other words, it's not draining. Master john63 illumines us on how to repair this. Let's listen in:

Unplug washer.


Remove both hoses from the DRAIN MOTOR/PUMP ASSY.

Inspect the hoses for obstruction (such as---a coin or large button).

NOTE: I usually place a dry towel over the *drain outlet* hose (the hose that goes from the washer-to-the-drain) and poke a hole in the towel---then I blow air through the drain hose. If the water in the hose clears/drains out---the hose is likely not obstructed with debris/foreign object(s).

Inspect the IMPELLER (looks like an airplane propeller) on the DRAIN MOTOR for debris preventing/obstructing the IMPELLER from spinning (such as a small nail). Examine the IMPELLER *blades* (4 blades) for damage. If 2 or more of the *blades* are missing/broken---water will not drain sufficiently (or at all). In some cases---the IMPELLER appears normal---but has actually become separated from the DRAIN MOTOR shaft and is not spinning when the motor is energized during the DRAIN CYLE.

If no obstruction is found and the DRAIN MOTOR runs/hums but water still does *not* drain out of the tub---order a new DRAIN MOTOR/PUMP ASSY (DC31-00054A) from www.repairclinic.com.


Drain pump part link ==> http://www.repaircli...100054A/1534541

Source: Samsung Washer WF206BNW/XAA






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