Samurai Appliance Repair Man's Blog

ADC - Automatic Defrost Control, uses an electronic board instead of a mechanical timer to determine defrost cycles.

Example model number: KTRC22KKWHOO

STEPS TO ENTER ELECTRONIC DEFROST CONTROL TEST MODE (IF APPLICABLE)
OPTION #1 STEPS (BI·METAL CLOSED):
#1 - POWER OFF TO REFRIGERATOR FOR AT LEAST 30 SECONDS
#2 - THERMOSTAT OFF
#3 - POWER ON TO REFRIGERATOR

OPTION #2 STEPS (BI-METAL CLOSED)
#1 - THERMOSTAT OFF 15 SECONDS
#2 - THERMOSTAT ON 5 SECONDS
(REPEAT STEPS 1 AND 2 TWO MORE TIMES)
#3 - THERMOSTAT OFF

ENTER TEST MODE

IN 3-8 SECONDS, CONTROL WILL TURN ON DEFROST HEATER.
DEFROST HEATER WILL TURN ON FOR 18 MINUTES OR UNTIL BI·METAL OPENS.
TO TERMINATE TEST EARLY, REMOVE POWER FROM REFRIGERATOR.
NOTE: IF OPTION #2 DOES NOT WORK, TRY OPTION #1 BEFORE REPLACING CONTROL.
ALWAYS CHECK CONNECTIONS BEFORE REPLACING CONTROL.
HELPFUL HINT: UPON ENTERING TEST MODE, A RELAY TURNS OFF THE COMPRESSOR AND TURNS ON THE DEFROST HEATER.
LISTEN FOR THE RELAY TO CLICK.
IF RELAY CLICKS ONCE UPON ENTERING TEST MODE, CHECK FOR DEFROST HEAT.
IF RELAY CLICKS TWICE (ALLOW UP TO 30 SEC BETWEEN CLICKS), CHECK FOR BI·METAL OPEN.
* * IF BI·METAL IS BY·PASSED FOR TESTING (IF APPLICABLE), DO NOT OVERHEAT EVAPORATOR AREA.

To learn more about your refrigerator or to order parts, click here.


Source: kitchenaid defrost cycle

You shouldn't need a manual to replace that door boot.

It is held in place by two wire 'bands'.  The one on the outside edge is spring loaded.  To remove it, all you do is grip the loop on the end of the spring with a pair of needle nose pliers (or a small flatblade screwdriver works too) and stretch the spring out and over the lip.  

The inner band will either be a flat band that is sort of like a big over sized worm-gear clamp, or it will be a wire clamp like on the front edge except it is tightened with a screw.  Which ever kind it is, loosen it up and slide it over the lip edge and pull it out.  You can now remove the old boot.

The new boot will have a top and a bottom - make sure you have the arrow or notch at the top and the drain holes at the bottom.  Fit the inner lip first by working it around pushing the rubber edge of the boot over the plastic lip of the outer liner.  Once it is on all the way around you will be able to slide your hand all the way around and it will feel smooth and even.  Then flip the inside of the boot inside the tub (making it inside out) to make it easier to work on the outer band.  Work the outer band on all the way around making sure that it is over the lip and in the groove - and then tighten the clamp/screw.  Make sure it is good and tight.  I use a little ratchet to do this - others reach in from on top with a screwdriver - either way, just make sure it is good a tight or you'll be moping up a flood.

Then flip the inside of the boot back into shape and fit it around the lip on the outer frame.  Once it is all in place and smooth, you can replace the outer band.  There are different ways of doing this, but I just use my hands - grip the band on either side of the spring.  Hook the top of the band over the top edge and fit it around the sides as far as you can.  Then stretch the spring out by separating your hands ... at the same time pulling it down over the bottom lip.  I can do it in one try pretty much every time now, but it took a bit of practice.  Don't be surprised if this takes a couple of tries.

Done ... crack a cold one and enjoy your washer.

Source: Whirlpool WFW9600TW01 Washer Door boot seal replacement

That is an outstanding analysis, Willie! I am truly impressed!  

After much weeping and gnashing of teeth, I was finally able to find something on the C5 error in this ancient-of-days electronic monstrosity and it's pretty close to what Sublime Master Willie's well-reasoned conjectures...



(click for larger view)

Source: GE GSD2600D02 dishwasher giving C5 code

To remove the control panel:
1. Disconnect power from the range.
2. Remove the back panel from the backguard.
3. Remove the knobs.
4. Disconnect the infinite switches or potentiometer and user interface boards from the control panel.
5. Disconnect the electronic oven control.
6. Disconnect the indicator light and the oven light switch.
7. Remove two square drive screws from the back top corners.
8. Remove two phillips screws, one in each corner of lower front.
Roll the bottom of the control panel out and lift up.

Source: Frigidaire FEF366DCE range

Regarding the pump out during fill when a cycle is started from the get-go ... you have either a bad diverter valve, or it's not connected properly after the son disassembled/reassembled the machine.  The valve controls which direction water flows when the pump runs -- either out the drain hose (diverter off) or back into the tub through the recirculation port at upper right/rear of the tub cover (diverter on).

All cycles except Perm Press start with what F&P calls EcoActive wash.  A small amount of water (at the selected temperature) is run in to saturate the clothes and dissolve the detergent.  The diverter valve is activated and the pump turns on to shower the concentrated detergent solution over the clothes for 3 to 5 mins (while the basket rotates at 25 RPM).  A bit more water may fill to top-off the required level for keeping the pump primed.  After the recirculation period, the machine fills rest of the way (to either an auto-sensed water level or a manual-selected water level) with COLD water for an agitated wash.

Your diverter is not functioning, thus when the pump turns on for EcoActive recirculation, water drains instead of recirculates.

As per your 4th paragraph above, if a cycle is started with the tub already filled beyond the very low EcoActive water level, it'll skip that function and go on to the agitated wash.  Perm Press also skips EcoActive by design, goes directly to the agitated wash.

The diverter valve can be operated in Diagnostic mode via the Delicate cycle button (this info is not on the Tech Sheet you may have found in the console).  The diverter is a wax motor, takes a couple mins or so to shift into recirculate when activated, 3 mins or so to shift back to drain when deactivated.  There's no indication on the console when it shifts, you just have to turn the diverter on or off and wait the requisite time before turning the pump on.
Delicate (diverter) On + Regular (pump) On = recirculation
Delicate Off + Pump On = drain

Source: Fisher Paykel GWL11 washer:  starts pumping out before full