Samurai Appliance Repair Man's Blog

Commonly accompanies by the infamous LE error code.

The Hall Effect sensor is easily removed and replaced.
You’ll have to remove the rotor and stator to access the sensor.
The rotor is attached to the shaft by one large bolt.
When replacing the rotor, you’ll probably need a helper to hold
the drum in place when you push the rotor onto the shaft.
Otherwise, the drum may move forward enough to make replacing the bolt difficult.
The helper can also hold the drum from turning while you tighten the bolt.

Before going to this trouble, check the connector on the main board.
It is the red connector closest to the heat sink.
Pull the connector off and verify the board is receiving a signal from the sensor.

Part link to the Hall Sensor ==> http://www.repaircli...Number=WM2277HW



Source: Replacing Hall Sensor on LG WM2277HW Washer

For service manuals and lots of other goodies,
become an Apprentice==> http://appliantology.org/apprentice/

from the Whirlpool Duet Service Manual:

Removing the washer front panel will require that the door switch be removed
and the boot be separated completely from the front panel opening.
The console must also be removed.

Access to these components requires that the top of the washer be removed.

Removing the Washer Top
Three screws secure the washer top at the back of the washer.
Remove the three screws and lift the top from the washer. (Fig. 4-4)

Removing the Console from the Cabinet
Disconnect the Touch Pad/LED Assembly ribbon connector from the left side of the Central Control Unit (Fig. 4-5)
and release it from the wiring harness brackets on the right side of the washer top.
Remove the detergent dispenser drawer by pressing down on the release tab at the back of the drawer (Fig. 4- 6A)
and pulling it completely out of the washer

Once the drawer is removed, remove the screw in the recessed hole next to the drawer opening.
Release the tab securing the right side of the console to the washer (Fig. 4-6B).

Open the washer door and place a flat-bladed screwdriver into the slot in the bottom center of the console (Fig. 4-6C).
Push the console up to release center console tab.
Be sure the ribbon cable clears the cabinet frame.

Removing the Touch Pad/LED Assembly from the Console
The Touch Pad/LED Assembly is removed as a single unit and contains the Push Buttons, LEDs, cable, etc. (Fig. 4-7A)
The buttons can be replaced separately as shown in Fig. 4-7B.

The washer door can be removed by removing the upper left shield cover and hinge cover.
Open the door and remove three screws securing the door hinge to the washer front and lifting upward.
Access to the door switch requires that the water seal boot be removed from the front of the washer. (Fig. 4-11)
Use a flat bladed screwdriver at the location of the retainer spring and pull the retainer forward
and then off the perimeter of the boot.
Ease the edge of the boot off of the lip of the washer front near the door switch. (Fig. 4-12)
Remove enough of the boot to gain access to the door switch behind the washer front panel.
The door switch is secured to the washer front panel with three screws.
Once these screws are removed, the door switch will remain in place until
it is lifted slightly and pulled back from the washer front panel

Next, remove the three screws securing the toe panel to the front of the washer (Fig. 4-14)
and remove the toe panel by lifting slightly and pulling forward.

Remove the two screws securing the bottom of the front panel to the washer,
and the two screws securing the top of the front panel to the washer.

The front panel can now be removed from the washer. (Fig. 4-15)

Source: Whirlpool Duet Sport Ht WFW9400SW01

(Hinge remains on Washer)
Remove hinge retainer plate from Door
Remove door from hinge posts.
Remove Screws around the perimeter of the glass retainer.
Remove the glass retainer.
Remove glass.
Remove external viewing window

Source: Maytag neptune MAH8700AWW - Need help replacing door

ADC - Automatic Defrost Control, uses an electronic board instead of a mechanical timer to determine defrost cycles.

Example model number: KTRC22KKWHOO

STEPS TO ENTER ELECTRONIC DEFROST CONTROL TEST MODE (IF APPLICABLE)
OPTION #1 STEPS (BI·METAL CLOSED):
#1 - POWER OFF TO REFRIGERATOR FOR AT LEAST 30 SECONDS
#2 - THERMOSTAT OFF
#3 - POWER ON TO REFRIGERATOR

OPTION #2 STEPS (BI-METAL CLOSED)
#1 - THERMOSTAT OFF 15 SECONDS
#2 - THERMOSTAT ON 5 SECONDS
(REPEAT STEPS 1 AND 2 TWO MORE TIMES)
#3 - THERMOSTAT OFF

ENTER TEST MODE

IN 3-8 SECONDS, CONTROL WILL TURN ON DEFROST HEATER.
DEFROST HEATER WILL TURN ON FOR 18 MINUTES OR UNTIL BI·METAL OPENS.
TO TERMINATE TEST EARLY, REMOVE POWER FROM REFRIGERATOR.
NOTE: IF OPTION #2 DOES NOT WORK, TRY OPTION #1 BEFORE REPLACING CONTROL.
ALWAYS CHECK CONNECTIONS BEFORE REPLACING CONTROL.
HELPFUL HINT: UPON ENTERING TEST MODE, A RELAY TURNS OFF THE COMPRESSOR AND TURNS ON THE DEFROST HEATER.
LISTEN FOR THE RELAY TO CLICK.
IF RELAY CLICKS ONCE UPON ENTERING TEST MODE, CHECK FOR DEFROST HEAT.
IF RELAY CLICKS TWICE (ALLOW UP TO 30 SEC BETWEEN CLICKS), CHECK FOR BI·METAL OPEN.
* * IF BI·METAL IS BY·PASSED FOR TESTING (IF APPLICABLE), DO NOT OVERHEAT EVAPORATOR AREA.

To learn more about your refrigerator or to order parts, click here.


Source: kitchenaid defrost cycle

You shouldn't need a manual to replace that door boot.

It is held in place by two wire 'bands'. The one on the outside edge is spring loaded. To remove it, all you do is grip the loop on the end of the spring with a pair of needle nose pliers (or a small flatblade screwdriver works too) and stretch the spring out and over the lip.

The inner band will either be a flat band that is sort of like a big over sized worm-gear clamp, or it will be a wire clamp like on the front edge except it is tightened with a screw. Which ever kind it is, loosen it up and slide it over the lip edge and pull it out. You can now remove the old boot.

The new boot will have a top and a bottom - make sure you have the arrow or notch at the top and the drain holes at the bottom. Fit the inner lip first by working it around pushing the rubber edge of the boot over the plastic lip of the outer liner. Once it is on all the way around you will be able to slide your hand all the way around and it will feel smooth and even. Then flip the inside of the boot inside the tub (making it inside out) to make it easier to work on the outer band. Work the outer band on all the way around making sure that it is over the lip and in the groove - and then tighten the clamp/screw. Make sure it is good and tight. I use a little ratchet to do this - others reach in from on top with a screwdriver - either way, just make sure it is good a tight or you'll be moping up a flood.

Then flip the inside of the boot back into shape and fit it around the lip on the outer frame. Once it is all in place and smooth, you can replace the outer band. There are different ways of doing this, but I just use my hands - grip the band on either side of the spring. Hook the top of the band over the top edge and fit it around the sides as far as you can. Then stretch the spring out by separating your hands ... at the same time pulling it down over the bottom lip. I can do it in one try pretty much every time now, but it took a bit of practice. Don't be surprised if this takes a couple of tries.

Done ... crack a cold one and enjoy your washer.

Source: Whirlpool WFW9600TW01 Washer Door boot seal replacement