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Samurai Appliance Repair Man's Blog


GE Refrigerator Appliantology: Fans, Evaporator and Condenser

Posted by Samurai Appliance Repair Man , in Refrigerator Repair 30 November 2011 · 1,707 views

This is the first in a series of posts I’m going to do about the technology used in GE refrigerators. Understanding the basics of how these refrigerators work will give you a lot of troubleshooting insight when you’re trying to track down a problem. This post explains how the fans in GE refrigerators are controlled and operated.

Like most other refrigerators, GE refrigerators have at least two fans:
- the evaporator (freezer) fan
- the condenser fan (the hot coil in the back, underneath the refrigerator)

Some up-line GE models may have an additional fan:
- in the beer section if it’s a dual evaporator unit
- in the Custom Cool® compartment, if so equipped

All fan motors used in current model GE refrigerators (includes Hotpoint brand) operate on 12 vdc. The motor speed is controlled using a technology called Pulse Width Modulation (PWM). Simple explanation of PWM: take a square wave and vary the width of the upper side of the pulses according to how fast you want the motor to turn- the longer the pulse, the faster the speed. For details on how PWM technology works, see this page ==> http://www.netrino.c...idth-Modulation

Currently, the condenser fan is single speed (although that’s gonna change in upcoming models) and the evaporator fan is multispeed.

Fan Wire Harness Color Code

- Yellow: PWM signal (input)
- Blue: Tachometer (output from motor)
- Red: +12 vdc supply (input)
- White: Common Ground! Can I hears an “A-freakin-men?”

The PWM wire on the fan motor harness is always the yellow wire– this is the wire that carries the signal telling the fan how fast to spin. Don’t bother trying to measure the voltage on the yellow wire with a conventional meter because the results will be meaningless.

Quick n’ Sleazy Fan Test

- White wire to the negative battery terminal
- Connect BOTH the Red and Yellow wires to the positive battery terminal.
Do not reverse the leads or you’ll blow out the sensitive electronics built into the motor assembly!

Quick Fan Diagnostic Test

- you should never hear the the fan making speed varying sounds in side-by-side units
- on top-mount units, you can sometimes hear the fan making pulsing noises

Fan Circuit on the Muthaboard

Some of the Muthaboards used in these boxes have resistors in the power circuit for the fans. These will be two resistors coming off the J2 plug on the board. If you’re looking straight at the board, the top resistor is for the evaporator fan and the bottom one for the condenser fan. They’re designed to burn out in case one of the fan motors shorts out. If this happens, you’ll need to replace BOTH the affected fan motor as well as the Muthaboard.

Part Links for Your Shopping Pleasure

Evaporator and Condenser Fans ==> http://www.repaircli...arch=Find Parts

Muthaboard ==> http://www.repaircli...5X10942/1531075


How to replace the motor brushes in a Bosch WFR2450 Axxis+ washer

Posted by Samurai Appliance Repair Man , in Washing Machine Repair 16 November 2011 · 1,831 views

If your Bosch washer won't spin or tumble, or the motor makes weird growling noises, you may need to replace the carbon brushes in the motor.

Here's the part link to the replacement brush set ==> http://www.repaircli.../154740/1043249

And here's a pretty good video that shows you how to replace them:


Although the video does a good job of showing you how to replace the brushes, Grand Master kdog offers the following clarifying comments on some of the other points mentioned in the video:

Pretty good video, but gotta disagree with a few points in it - "All Electric Motors have brushes" - that couldn't be further from the truth, in fact MOST of the motors that we, as appliance people, deal with DO NOT have brushes.
Also the brush he extracted from the motor he said "Shows no Visible Signs of Damage" - to me, the end of it that contacts the commutator has a clear strip burnt into it where it was perhaps not making full contact. Since I do not (have not) seen very many brushes, it would look suspicious to me.

Source: bosch wfr2450 Axxis+ washer wont spin, how to get error codes?


Whirlpool Vertical Modular Washer (VMW), United Servicers Regional Training in Albany, NY

Posted by Samurai Appliance Repair Man , in Washing Machine Repair 10 November 2011 · 8,365 views

Starting to get my notes and photos together from an excellent United Servicers Association regional training in Albany, NY. Here's my summary of the training. Dave Shertzer was the instructor; he did a great job. This is a very easy machine to work on. Tears down in about 10 minutes; 15 minutes if you're one-armed, one-legged, or one-eyed.

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You're gonna want a set of these to facilitate electrical measurements on those tiny-ass wire harnesses.

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Inside the control panel the VM washer. Panel comes apart differently. Two clips in front, either end. Can press in with a putty knife or credit card while pushing back on the panel. Can also undo them by reaching underneath the top panel.

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Main control board and water inlet valve inside the control panel, closer look.

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Looking into the tub with the top panel removed. Kind of a funky z-maneuver to get the top panel off. Have to remove the hinge screws in back and then do the z-maneuver to lift off the top panel.

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Looking at the drive guts underneath the washer, laying on its front panel. The only two ways you'll be working on this machine: through the top or the bottom, as shown here. Do not remove the back panel.

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Belt cage and belt removed. Motor and main yellow drive pulley.

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Main yellow drive pulley removed. Seeing part of the splutch assembly.

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With splutch removed.

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Splutch assembly.

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Mode shifter motor. Shifts the splutch between spin and agitate modes. This has been a common fail item so far in this machine. Very easy to replace.


What if Edgar Allen Poe was an Appliantologist?

Posted by Samurai Appliance Repair Man , in Humor, Goofs 08 November 2011 · 1,200 views

What do you get when you cross Edgar Allen Poe, Appliantology.org, and Chief Master Appliantologist DurhamAppliance? Answer: The Craven

or If Edgar Allen Poe (Master Poe?) was an Appliantologist (and less talented)

Once upon a late night dreary, while I staggered, weak and beery
Over many a quaint bottles from the neighborhood store.
While I nodded, nearly napping, suddenly there came a tapping
As of someone barely rapping, rapping at my kitchen door
It's my girl, I stammered, "tapping at my kitchen door
Only this and nothing more"

Presently my soul grew stronger, hesitating then no longer
"Baby" said I, "truly your forgiveness I implore:
But the fact is I was dozing when you came a nozing
Around my kitchen door that I scarce was sure I heard you."
Then here I opened wide the door
...Darkness there, and nothing more.

Deep into that darkness peering, long I stood there wondering, fearing
until the silence was quickly broken, scared to death I began choking
As the tapping. no the rapping, no the knocking I was sure,
Was the knock knock knocking of my GE's compressor.
The tell tale sign of death of my GE's compressor.

Nightmares of spending money, as I imagine my sweet honey
Shop, shop, shopping from store to store. "We must have a french door
A Wolf, a Sub Zero" she'd implore "or better yet a Thermador."
While in the background the constant knocking of my GE's compressor,
the knock knock knocking of my GE's compressor.

The knocking became a squeaking, as if the fridge was speaking
But it could not be no more than the state of my stupor,
Morphing sound into speech from the cursed compressor,
From the knock knock knocking of the cursed compressor.
"it's only the beer, and nothing more."

Then came an ungodly sound, my soul entranced, my mind spellbound
against its will to perform an act, to sell my soul through Faustian pact.
"Open my door" it forcefully roared, "the door to me, the Motherboard!"
Am I in hell or is this still the knocking, the constant knocking of my GE compressor?
I had to find out, I had to explore or was I compelled to remove the door.
or simply too craven to ignore.

The door fell open awakening evil inside. "Save me" it ordered, SAVE ME!" it cried
"Buy another fridge get another GE, Remove that board. Replace it with me!"
Suddenly from a drawer I withdrew a stake for fondue, From Hell's heart I stab at thee! From Hell's heart I run you through!"
What came over me? Something in my core? Something reinforced by Appliantology.org?
I continued the destruction while shouting at the board, "buy another GE, Huh? Ha!..............Nevermore!"

Source: "The Craven" an appliance related Tale of Horror


How to test the diverter valve in a Fisher Paykel GWL11 washer

Posted by Samurai Appliance Repair Man , in Washing Machine Repair 03 November 2011 · 8,679 views

Master DADoESTX has written up an excellent explanation of what the diverter valve does in these washers, the problems it can cause, and how to test it:

The wash period (Heavy, Normal, Delicate, & Woolens cycles ... not Perm Press) has two different wash processes. The first part is the EcoActive wash. The tub fills with just enough water to saturate the clothes and a couple/few gallons more, then the pump turns on and concentrated detergent solution sprays over the clothes for about 5 mins while the basket rotates at 25 RPM. Recirculation is by way of a diverter valve that shifts the pump's flow from going out the drain hose to going through the recirculation hose and back into the tub. If the valve is not functioning, shifting into recirculation mode, then the water will drain when the pump turns on, and the machine will keep filling in an effort to maintain the required water level. It should trigger a fault code on this situation. Note that there may be a little more filling occur after the pump recirculation begins to top-off the water level for what's "in the air" for recirculation.

After the EcoActive wash function is finished, the tub fills rest of the way for an agitated wash, during which the pump does not run.

Perm Press does not run the EcoActive wash, goes directly to the deep-fill agitated wash .... so the times when your machine is working OK may be when Perm Press is being used.

You can test the diverter valve via Diagnostic Mode.

- With Power off, press and hold Wash Temp Down, then press Power at the same time. Should get two beeps and the panel activates into Diagnostic Mode.

- Press Delicate to activate the diverter valve. It's a wax motor that takes 1 to 2 mins to heat and shift into recirculate mode. When deactivated it takes 2 to 3 mins to cool and shift back to drain mode. There's no visual indication on the panel when it shifts, have to turn turn it either on or off and wait the requisite time.

- While waiting for the diverter to shift, fill the tub with enough water to see it start coming up the agitator base. Wash Temp Down runs cold water or Wash Temp Up runs hot water, your choice.

- Assuming a couple mins have passed and the diverter has had time to shift, now press Regular to turn the pump on. Water should shower out of the recirculation port at right-rear top of the top, and NONE from the drain hose.

- Press Delicate and Regular to turn the diverter and pump off. Wait a few mins for the diverter to cool and shift as explained above. Press Regular to turn the pump on again, and water should flow out the drain hose and NONE from the recirculation port.

If either recirculation or drain does not work properly (but the pump does run), then the diverter valve is either bad or clogged with debris, blocked from shifting modes.

This procedure for operating the diverter valve via the Delicate cycle button in Diagnostics is not outlined in the service material that I've seen for GWL11, GWL15, etc., but it does/should work. It is stated in the GWL10 service supplement. (The diverter on IWL12/15/16 can be operated via the Home button [the LCD panel will say Diverter Off or Heating or On or Cooling], and the pump via the Fabric Care button.)

Source: Fisher Paykel GWL11 - Intermittent Issues with Cycle

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