Samurai Appliance Repair Man's Blog

F9E1 (91) LONG DRAIN
If the drain time exceeds 8 minutes, the water valves turn off.

Possible Causes/Procedure
- Ask the customer how much detergent they are using and if it is HE detergent.

May have too much suds present causing this condition.
- Turn washer ON to verify pump operates; run the drain cycle.
- Check the drain hose and make sure it is not plugged or kinked.
- Unplug washer or disconnect power.
- Make sure that wire harness connections at the Drain Pump, Pressure SW, & CCU (DP2, PR6 cavities)
connectors are not broken or with wires detached, and that connector internal pins are visible.
- Check continuity from the Drain Pump & CCU (DP2 cavity) connectors.
- Check continuity from the Pressure SW & CCU (PR6 cavity) connectors.
- If the continuity diagnosis failed, Main Harness must be replaced.
- Make continuity test to the Pressure SW. See page 7.
- Check the resistance of the motor pump. See page 7.
- Plug in washer or reconnect power.
- Run the drain cycle.
- If the failure continues, unplug washer or disconnect power.
- Check the drain pump filter for foreign objects.
- Disassemble the drain pump from the washer.
- Check that the impeller is not detached from the motor shaft.
If the impeller is detached from the shaft, is broken or has any scratches, the drain pump must be replaced.
- Plug in washer or reconnect power.
- Verify the washer operation by performing the Diagnostic Test cycle.
See page 5.
- After the diagnostic test has finished, unplug washer or disconnect power and wait for 15 seconds.

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Going from the gray matter, put both arms into the unit ,one to the left of the drum and one to the right near the bottom, left arm over the blower........... On the left side, the belt will go down from the drum, under the motor pulley, up on the right ,,Use your right hand and pull the Idler pulley to the right and lay the belt on the top of the Idler pulley...... let the Idler pulley return to the left slowly..........Viewed from the front, belt down on the left, under the motor pulley up and over the idler pulley.... continuing up and to the right , over the drum.........

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Thanks for the assistance and for the great deal on the parts. I was able to make the repair, took a modest amount of time and still had some cold ones leftover while I sat and watched the test run.

For anyone interested in specifics, here are a few variations on my GE model from the Frigidaire in the post I referenced for the repair:

• I was able to lean my machine back and did not uninstall the door
• no glue was present, which eliminated the need to razor blade the old gasket off
• no 3/8" copper tubing tool was needed; the fitting for the soap/bleach just fits right inside
• the inner spring was held tight by a screw assembly...this was a bit of a bugger to get off
• the replacement gasket seems to be much higher quality than the original (yay!)
• I also took the time to clear the trap in the bottom of the machine (yet again) while it was tilted back and walked away with 36¢, a nasty kids sock, some miscellaneous tidbits, and four hairpins (time for yet another leture with the wife about the hairpins)

Cheers to you all!

JP

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The magnets will pull the rotor assy onto the stator. It feels funny. You have to line the splines up on both parts then get the center bolt started and by tightening the bolt it will pull both parts together. You might have to give it a few tries to get the splines lined up, those magnets are strong.

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Freezer temperature needs to be +15F or colder for the IceMaker to "harvest" the Cubes

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