Samurai Appliance Repair Man's Blog

Common manifestation of this problem:  no lights on the control panel and when you press the power button, you just get three or four quick beeps.  

Do the test on this page.  If unplugging the blue harness from the MCU results in the control panel lighting up normally like the machine wants to run (but can't because the blue wire is unplugged from the MCU), then...

Unplugging the blue harness from the MCU resulted in the control panel lighting up normally.

You be needin' one of these:

Click on Pic

Source: Kenmore HE5t F71 error code and won't run

KEYSWITCH RESISTANCE CHECK TABLE

KEY . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .+Pos. Lead – Neg. Lead

DELAY HOURS  . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . P1-12 . . . . P1-2
SMART WASH/ACCUSENSE/ ADAPTIVE WASH . . P1-13 . . . .  P1-2
SOAK & SCOUR/STEAM/STEAM SANI . . . . . . . . . P1-11 . . . .   P1-3
CANCEL/DRAIN . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .. . .  . . .P1-12  . . . .  P1-3
POTS & PANS/HEAVY. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .. . . .  . . P1-13 . . . .   P1-3
HIGH TEMP. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .. .. P1-11 . . . .   P1-4
START/RESUME. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .  . . . .  . . P1-12 . . . .   P1-4
NORMAL WASH/NORMAL. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . ..  . . P1-13 . . . .   P1-4
SANI RINSE. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .. . P1-11 . . . .   P1-5
TURBO/PRO SCRUB/POWER SCOUR. . . . . . . . . . P1-12 . . . .   P1-5
CHINA/LIGHT. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .  . .. . . . . P1-13 . . . .   P1-5
HEATED DRY. . .  . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .  . . . . . P1-11 . . . .   P1-6
RINSE ONLY/QUICK RINSE. . . . . . . . . . . .. . . . .. . . P1-12 . . . .   P1-6
GLASS XPRESS/FAST WASH/ QUICK CLEANUP . . P1-13 . . . .   P1-6

Source: Whirlpool  DU1145XTPQA Quiet Partner II Dishwasher Not starting

Sublime Master john63 is The School's resident LG and Samsung expert and offers these troubleshooting tips for LG electric dryers that won't heat gleaned from actual hand-to-hand combat with these machines.

HEATING ELEMENTS in LG dryers **rarely** fail.

Unless-----the *exhaust vent* from the rear of the dryer-to-the-outside-venthood is/has been blocked/restricted for a very,very long time.

Even then---the Heating Element usually does not fail.

I've replaced perhaps **one** Heating Element in nine years.

On the other hand---THERMAL LIMITERS will & do fail if the *exhaust vent* is blocked/restricted.
If the *exhaust vent* is a very short-length (1 to 3 feet)---then the liklihood of the vent causing a failed THERMAL LIMITER is nil. The 2nd most common cause of *failed* THERMAL LIMITERS is from Fabric Softener Sheets. Once-in-awhile the Fab. Soft. Sheet will become "caught/sucked" onto the LINT FILTER HOUSING and this causes a giant reduction in AIR FLOW.
Air movement from the Heater-Through-The-Laundry-Through-The-Lint-Filter-And-Exiting-The-Dryer-Exhaust-Vent slows to such a reduced a level---which then causes the Heater Housing Temperature to "spike". This in turn causes the THERMAL LIMITER to *shut-down* the Heater--for safety.



When I get an LG electric dryer that has a NO HEAT complaint--the very first thing that I will examine/rule-out will be the *exhaust venting* that runs from behind the dryer to the outside dryer vent hood. If the vent is has been verified 100% to be absolutely-positively clear/unobstructed---and...

1) The wall receptacle has 220 volts

***Unplug the Dryer at this point***

2) The TERMINAL BLOCK is not damaged/burnt (this is where the dryer plug attaches to the dryer)

Then it's time to inspect the THERMAL FUSE. This is centrally-mounted on the side of the HEATER HOUSING.
If the THERMAL FUSE (6931EL3003D) has failed a *continuity* test using a Digital MultiMeter (DMM)--it should be replaced along with the THERMOSTAT (6931EL3001E) which is also mounted on the HEATER HOUSING.

If the THERMAL LIMITER tested "good"...

Place the test leads into the Motor Connector/Plug. One test probe into each of the two *thickest* wires of the Motor Plug.

Looking at the Motor---you'll notice a *black ring* on the motor shaft directly opposite the Motor PULLEY.
This *black ring* is part of the CENTRIFUGAL SWITCH on the Motor (prevents the Heater from functioning if the Motor fails to start).
Use your finger to slide the *black ring* towards/in the direction of the BLOWER WHEEL (it'll slide about 1/2 inch).
At this point the DMM should show *continuity*. If not--replace the MOTOR.  

If the CENTRIFUGAL SWITCH tests good---replace the MAIN BOARD (a rare failure for a NO HEAT condition but not impossible).

Source: LG DLE7177RM Not Heating

Up the Ammonusuc Trail and down the Jewell Trail. Amazing conditions for these last few days of winter: snow was still stiff, consolidated and buoyant, warm temps (around 0F with wind chill), and full on sunshine on this bluebird day. Lots of other hikers out, too-- look for 'em in the slideshow, best viewed in full-screen mode with your volume turned up so you can groove on the soundtrack.