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Samurai Appliance Repair Man's Blog



How to remove the stove top burners in a Maytag gas range

Posted by Samurai Appliance Repair Man, in Oven-Range-Stove Repair 02 July 2011 · 2,297 views

you have to turn each burner head about 1&1/2" CCW to release it from the top of the range.
Once released you can lift it up and remove the wiring and the top can be raised after releasing
the clips under the front edge.

Note:

They make a special wrench for removing the burners
however you may be able to do it with some other type of large pliers.
you will need to take great care when removing as its normal
to hear a little cracking and poping of the porcelin when removing but, can
crack severly if you rough with it.





Source: Maytag gas range CRG9800BAB


How to clean out the fabric softener cup in a Whirlpool-built direct drive washer

Posted by Samurai Appliance Repair Man, in Washing Machine Repair 02 July 2011 · 1,142 views
whirlpool, washer, dispenser

just pull the dispenser off the top of the agitator and soak it in extremely hot water for a bit.
Then using an old toothbrush or like object and some water pressure clean it out.
It's just clogged up...may take a while to get it all out.





Source: whirlpool, washing machine, la6800t


How to fix a Frigidaire-built Kenmore laundry center that's leaving oil spots on clothes in the washer

Posted by Samurai Appliance Repair Man, in Washing Machine Repair 02 July 2011 · 813 views

the only permenant fix is to replace the tranny. the
seal usually fails from excessive play in the drive shaft.
Your going to need a 6 packer for this job.

Tranny Link



Posted Image





Source: Kenmore Laundry Center Model # 417-97962701


How to diagnose a Maytag Atlantis washer that won't spin or agitate

Posted by Samurai Appliance Repair Man, in Washing Machine Repair 02 July 2011 · 1,675 views

if the machine fills to the set level and the motor is running
to agitate check underneath and see if the large center transmission
pulley is turning. If it is and the agitator isn't going back and forth then
you have a bad transmission...time to buy another machine.

If the large pulley isnt turning but the motor is running then the belt is slipping on the motor pulley.
Those plastic motor pulley go bad and melt as you described and may be your problem, and if so,
you can't buy the "exact" replacement pulley w/o buying the motor...but, the is another belt and
pulley combination that can be used if you find that this is your problem.

Let us know.





Source: re: Maytag MAV 5000AWW


How to fix a Samsung dual-evaporator refrigerator where the beer compartment keeps icing up

Posted by Samurai Appliance Repair Man, in Refrigerator Repair 02 July 2011 · 4,067 views

This fix is for the Samsung-built refrigerators (includes some GE's) with two evaporator coils: one in the freezer compartment and a second one in the beer compartment (most refrigerators just have a single evaporator coil in the freezer compartment).

The problem here is that ice would be left in the condensate drain pan after defrost (see below) which would build up to a solid chunk of ice.

Here's a clever, low-cost solution:

well I am back as prommised... great news....

well after 2.5 months I can say it is a fix indeed. I never lasted 6 weeks and the normal was 3 weeks.

so if you are giving up with all fixes because everything works like mine did but always froze up do this. do the soldering when the fridge is off. here are some pictures.

this one shows the ice left after a defrost cycle, this should not be there. It is a problem. you can see to the left it doid melt some ice, but there is still a section that is just going to keep building because it did not melt through a complete defrost cycle. I have higher resolution pictures at a link at the bottom of the post.
Posted Image

below is the 2.2 k ohm resistor in series. do it with power unplugged. just cut one yellow wire close to the connector and solder a 10 cent resistor in and tape it
Posted Image


here is a modification to the heat sink. I added some aluminum flashing to make contact on both heater bars to transfer heat to the lower part to melt the ice. make sure you have a curve contact on the bars for better contact area. not shown is I have a tapered small tab on that flashing that also goes into the drain hole to make sure the drain hole is kept from being frozen

I also added a heat sink to the left, it was not making good contact with the sheet metal, so I made a piece that made more contact and stopped it from being a hot spot. which could cause that area to burn out. they tried to do it all with the rivited points, that just is not a lot of contact area.

I bought the aluminum flashing at Ace hardware, but bet you can get small sheets at hobby shops.

Posted Image

here is a bending of the upper tabs to make better contact and allow the water to drop to the bottom during the defrost vs handing on after the defrost and freezing and adding humidity. i only did this on the top row. i did not bend the one on the left yet and you can see the water droplet right behind it.

Posted Image
here are higher resolution photos if you need them click below
fridge





Source: defrost failure samsung model RS2555SL






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