Tips for installing a new transmission, tub seal and bearing in a Frigidaire / Kenmore stack laundry top-loading washer
I pushed down the top piece of the seal over the transmission shaft (with the rubber o-ring facing down) I used axel grease on the spin bearing.
Oops! prepare to disassemble unit and flip the top part of the seal so that the bronze disc contacts the ceramic face of the boot seal, then work the rubber ring carefully into the centre of the disc, compressing it so it remains tight to the shaft. Do not use any lube on this seal - not a good idea to put grease into the tub bearing either as it will accumulate underneath and "gum up the works". The bushing is oilite so it has oil (not grease) injected in it during manufacture.
As for the springs, the one that doesn't match with the other 2 will have more tension and gets installed 180 degrees from the motor so it offsets the motor weight and aids in balancing - and yes, you can install the other agitator for your style of transmission. Did you use the electrical duplex boxes to extend and hold the springs open during disassembly/assembly ?
Transmission part link ==> Transmission
Source: Frigidaire/Kenmore Stack Seal/Bearing/Tranny Repair Going Badly 417.97912700
If you were referring to replacing the "cook Top"
it's pretty simple....
turn off power
open oven door
remove the 3 or 4 screws that hold the top down in the front
raise top up, use a board or something to securely hold the top up
as you will need 2 hands to remove burner assemblies.
burners should be mounted on plates, remove the entire plate
with burners attached carefully laying them down.
repeat with rear burner assembly
now the top is ready to remove.
Normally it just sits on the hinges in the back,
there shouldn't be any screws holding it on
but you may have to look at the hinge closely
to see how the top needs to be manipulated to
Part link for all styles of GE Spectra glass cooktops ==> Cook Tops
Source: GE Spectra JBP78A0B2AA
I didn't have any cell signal the entire trip. Mucho domos to all the many fine Masters who kept the Samurai School going while I was gone especially Reg, appl.tech, kdog, john63, CTG51 and scottthwolf! (apologies if I left anyone out).
These units are a pain in the neck to get to the defrost heater. To do so without breaking any of the plastic panels or the syrofoam divider block, you should turn the unit completely off for 24 hours with the doors open to let the unit completely defrost.
First, remove the freezer door.
Remove the middle hinge, remove all the screws in the divider between the freezer compartment and the refigerator compartment.
Gently pry the plastic divider (also known as the mullion strip) towards you.
Pull the floor of the freezer out (very gently) as these are known to crack.
Remove the styrofoam divider under the freezer floor.
You will find the glass tube defrost heater clipped under the evaporator with a couple clips.
Simply remove the clips noting their position on the evaporator and unplug and remove the glass tube defrost heater.
If either the defrost heater or the bi-metal are bad
it would be well worth the few extra bucks to replace them
both so you hopfully never have to go into the unit again.
Defrost bi-metal Link
Source: Montgomery Wards, Refrigerator HMG19274
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