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Tips for Repairing or Replacing a Dishwasher without Making a Mess

Posted by Samurai Appliance Repair Man, in Dishwasher Repair 02 January 2013 · 794 views
dishwasher, leak, repair, replace
If you're getting ready to do a major repair on a dishwasher, especially one that requires the dishwasher to be completely removed from the cabinet, Professor john63 offers some hard-won battle tactics based on his years of experience on the Front Lines:

I would describe myself as an expert in the dishwasher category---but not by design or intention.

After becoming an LG authorized servicer---we were literally inundated with warranty calls for failing/failed SUMP ASSYs.

Replacing a SUMP ASSY---requires removing the dishwasher from under the counter.

In addition to that---we *were* also an ASC for Samung as well.

After well over a hundred SUMP ASSY replacements---I've learned several things.

1) In kitchens with "built-up" floors---customers are required to hire a flooring contractor to remove a section of the kitchen floor (tile or otherwise)---to allow proper removal/repair/re-installation of the dishwasher. For the LG D/Ws---a mininum of 34 inches is needed from the floor-to-the-bottom-of-the-countertop.

If the dishwasher was out-of-warranty---I'd strongly recommend that the customer *replace* the existing dishwasher with a new model (usually GE) specifically designed for *built-up floors* (a brilliant idea,by the way).

2) Before beginning a dishwasher repair that involves removal from under-the-counter---quickly size-up the water and drain connections.
If a cheap/plastic SHUT-OFF VALVE or a less-than-ideal drain arrangement exists---plan your repairs and estimates accordingly.
Know where the Hot Water Heater AND Main Water Shut-off valves are located---before starting a repair.
Replace any water or drain hose that looks remotely questionable.
Once the repairs are completed---totally inspect the water supply and drain hoses. Verify that none have even a slow weeping drip. Run test the dishwasher.
Sometimes a water line will develope a slow drip *after* the pressure fluctuates from the water valve opening and closing.
When done---double check these connections yet again before leaving.

I wish I could brag that I have a flawless record of no water damage or insurance claims---but I don't.

In one case---I had replaced an LG Sump Assy---the installation of the dishwasher was so perfect (by someone else) that I only needed to slide out the dishwasher and place it on it's back and exchange the Sump Assy----and then re-install.
The next morning---I got a call from the customer that a section of the drop ceiling in her basement had collapsed and the floor was wet.
Turns out that the water connection under the sink was only *hand tight*---and the movement of the water line during my repair caused a slow drip (perhaps 1 drip every 5 seconds).
Over 12 hours later---this created enough of a water leak to cause quite a mess.
This was an insurance claim---that was totally preventable---if I had been more thorough.

Another leak occured when I again---repaired an LG dishwasher---in a newer home with REALLY cheap and odd plumbing fixtures.
This leak was slow like the first one---but did not enter the basement.
The cause of the leak was---the REALLY cheap (and weird) shut-off valve.
Never seen one before or since. I didn't *like* it when I first saw it too.
That was problably my sub-conscious brain telling me---maybe I ought to replace that unbelieveably fragile-looking shut-off valve.
Small insurance claim for that one---sucks. Totally avoidable---had I followed my instinct to get rid of a questionable valve:)


3) The rest--is the usual stuff...

Re-install the D/W better than it was (most are installed terribly)
Leave the work area cleaner than it was before arriving
Protect flooring (cardboard works well for me)
Keep toolbag/box and tools on a mat or cardboard sheet etc

Good luck :)



Source: Should we dish it out?





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