One of the many things that can make a refrigerator warm up is the compressor is trying but failing to start. You may occasionally hear this type of noise from the back of the refrigerator (starts about 15 seconds in):
This is the sound of your compressor trying, but failing miserably, to start. Best case scenario: Bad compressor start relay. Worst case scenario: open compressor start winding or seized compressor bearing == buy a new refrigerator.
Question: How do you tell which is which?
Answer: Compressor test cord.
Question: What's a compressor test cord and how do I make one?
Question: How do you know which is the start, run, and common connection posts on the compressor?
Answer: Use Brother Bobice's procedure for identifying the compressor electrical terminals:
Using a good multimeter set on ohms, remove the compressor terminal cover with the unit off.
Brother Durham offers these sage and comforting words of appliantological wisdom for dealing with door closing and sealing problems in Amana refrigerators. Let us attend:
After working on countless fridges with door closing problems in my refurbished store as well as outside repairs, I usually can get them to close without having to buy new door closers or hinges... Amanas have been the most problematic of them all but there are several things you can try before buying new parts....
this is stream of consciousness so not in any particular order...do the easiest ones first
1) make sure the doors are aligned ....adjust the top hinges so the doors do not touch when closing....you have to find the proper angle
2) Soften the gasket with a steamer or hot water to make it pliable...don't forget to check the very bottom of the fridge
3) try adding a bit of food grade oil/grease on the right hand side of the fridge where the fridge gasket "rides" against it. There have been some discussion about the oil's effect on plastic gaskets....I have never experienced this problem....it may degrade the plastic after many many years.
4) make sure that any light switch that is pressed by the door when closing is at a proper angle to the door and does not stick
5) Adjust the fridge feet or wheels so that there is a slight incline on the fridge to enable gravity to assist in closing. This is proper for older non bottom freezer fridges.
6) Sometimes doors can get bent and many manuals advise slightly bending them back in alignment so that the top and bottom gasket hits the fridge at the same time.
7) adding a washer to the bottom hinge pin can slightly raise the fridge door and make closing easier
8) make sure there are no shelves out of place. Some fridge manual advise that certain door racks not be placed to where it hits food or drawers inside the fridge cabinet
9) The sneakiest one of them all and has caused be much consternation in the past is this: there is a metal piece attached to the door near the bottom hinge. It is there for cosmetic purposes to hide the hinge. Sometimes they get bent and causes the door not to close as easily as it should. You can remove it or bend it out of the way if you find that it hits the bottom of the fridge.
10) Make sure your gaskets and area where the gaskets seal on the fridge are clean and dirt free.
If none of the above works, you may need to get another door closer for the bottom hinge.
Refrigerator warming up and you can't think straight enough to figure out what's wrong because you're in a pure, blind panic? Well, you just unbunch them panties and sing along with the Samurai in his Warm Refrigerator Troubleshooting Flowchart and you'll have the problem figured out before you can say, "pneumonoultramicroscopicsilicovolcanoconiosis."
This has been a long-time vexing problem in some LG refrigerator models. You'll also see this on Kenmore and GE refrigerators that were built by LG. The unit defrosts properly but builds up rime ice inside the freezer looking like there's an air leak, like from a bad door seal. But the door seals are good and no source of air leak can be found. Brother Durham found this tech memo that explains it and offers the cure: a redesigned evaporator fan motor.
The "Jazz" control board is what Whirlpool (makers of Amana and Maytag appliances) calls the Adaptive Defrost Control (ADC) board used in some models of french door and bottom-mount Maytag and Amana refrigerators. You can identify the Jazz control board by the two, single-digit digital displays for the freezer and fresh food temperature adjustment that are located at the top of the fresh food compartment.
These Jazz boards fail pretty frequently. The two most common failure modes on these boards are
1) Failure to initiate defrost and
2) Failure to stop the compressor during defrost.
In both cases, the evaporator frosts up so much that air can't flow through it anymore. When I get the call, the typical complaint is that the freezer temperatures are fine but the fresh food compartment (the beer compartment) is not cold enough.
Troubleshooting these Jazz boards is pretty straightforward. Put the unit into forced defrost mode and see if the defrost heating element in the freezer heats up. You can tell this in a number of ways:
- feel the heating element (carefully!) if you can reach it - listen for sizzling as the frost melts off the evaporator and hits the hot element - measure current or wattage change (should increase)-- a Kill-A-Watt meter makes this quick and easy to do.
If the defrost heater does not get hot in forced defrost mode, then you need to disassemble the freezer and check continuity of the defrost limiter and defrost heater. But, I gotta tell ya, in these units I replace far more Jazz boards than I do defrost limiters. And I don't think I've ever had to replace a defrost heater in one of these models.
So, how do you put the Jazz control board into forced defrost mode? I thought you'd never ask! The tech sheet behind the toe grill has instructions like this:
You can watch me in action as I show you how to run diagnostics on these boards, including putting it into forced defrost mode.
As far as replacing the Jazz board, there are a couple techniques out there. First thing is to remove the light cover (the clear plastic part over the lights behind the control panel). It just slides back and off. That's the easy part.
One way to get at the Jazz board is to remove the entire control housing, like ahso:
The other method, and my preferred method, is to just unclip the Jazz board housing, letting it swing down, but leaving the rest of the control housing intact, like ahso:
You can also watch me in action as I replace the Jazz Board in one of these refrigerators:
The replacement Jazz board comes with an instruction sheet. Read this carefully because you have to program the Jazz board according to the program code on the model number sticker inside the beer compartment.
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