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Samurai Appliance Repair Man's Blog



Installing the foamed-in-place refrigerator door gaskets used on some Whirlpool and Kitchenaid models: A War Story

Posted by Samurai Appliance Repair Man, in Refrigerator Repair 04 August 2013 · 1,379 views
refrigerator, gaskets and 4 more...
Brother Willie shares his battle-scarred experience with replacing these types of refrigerator door gaskets. To summarize in a word: DON'T. Or, if you must because you're a professional Appliantologist, make sure you charge a lot for the job.

Sounds like you have a FIP, (Foamed-In-Place), door liner. I've only had to replace a door gasket on a FIP door one time and probably will not every do it again.

You have to cut the old gasket in four places, (in the middle on each side), and carefully pull the gasket lip straight out from under the plastic liner, being careful not to pull up and break the liner away from the foam.

They you have to make sure the channel is clear of any remaining foam particles with a putty knife about 1/2" in all the way around.

Then the you have to get the new gasket installed, this was the nightmare part. Says to insert opposite diagonal corners first then other two diagonal corners. First two-no problem, third corner-no problem, forth corner - OHHH!!!!! What B!TCH!!!!! It was a real fight to get it to stretch out enough without tearing the gasket to get it over and under the lips of the liner.



But Brothers PDuff and JJ Surfer offer these consoling words of wisdom:

Concur with Brother Willie on the gasket replacement. Attempt only as a last resort. I think if you follow the instruction sheets on those they want you to remove the door to replace the gasket.

FIP gasket aren't that bad to do. The replacement gaskets have a had plastic edge that snaps into channel between liner and door panel. After removing the old gaskets I put silicone caulking where the new gasket will snap into the liner. Two problems with FIP door gasket replacement:
1. If you don't put adhesive the gasket tend to slide, especially on the hinge side where the door cams constantly slide up and down
2. The gaskets often come in too small and need to be stretched, I've done plenty that go on no problem and I have had a lot that seem about 1/4 too short.
Basically the original gaskets are better and should only be changed if there are significant tears, splits or missing magnets.



Source: Kitchenaid fridge. KBRC36FKS02. Sporadic temp problems


Reading wiring diagrams: How the Defrost Cycle works in a Danby refrigerator

Danby, defrost, circuit, diagram and 2 more...
Brother Reg elegantly steps us through the circuit diagram for this one.

When the Defrost cycle starts (Timer Motor pauses),
the Neutral goes through the Defrost Heater, Defrost Thermostat, and Thermal Fuse to Line.
Whenever the Defrost Thermostat "opens",
the Neutral still goes through the Defrost Heater, but now travels through the Timer Motor
and "seeks" the Line through the Compressor.(and Overload).
Motor resumes, but since the Motor is of a "high" resistance, the Heater hardly heats anymore,
until the Timer completes it's "Defrost timing", and then it switches the Neutral back to itself and to the Compressor.
If any of those parts aren't working, the Motor may not run at the specific time.


Posted Image



Source: Help Me Read This Wiring Diagram


Electrolux and Frigidaire Refrigerator Water Valve Diode in Harnesses by Model and Ice Maker Style

Posted by Samurai Appliance Repair Man, in Refrigerator Repair, Icemaker Repair 23 June 2013 · 1,270 views
Electroluc, Frigidaire and 6 more...

I noticed I never could seem to find them on the part breakdown, so I made a list. Here ya go!


Electrolux and Frigidaire Refrigerator Water Valve Diode in Harnesses by Model and Ice
Maker Style.

Refrigerator Style Ice Maker Type Part Number
Side X Side Crescent Cube 5303918287
French Door Finger Evaporator 242102101
French Door Flex Tray 242119101
On French Door models it doesn't matter if there is a crescent cube ice maker in the
freezer section or not, order the diode according to the style of the ice maker that's in
the fresh food section.

http://appliantology...guration-guide/



Source: VALVE ASSY HELP


Rigging and using a compressor test cord to manually operate a compressor

Posted by Samurai Appliance Repair Man, in Refrigerator Repair 21 June 2013 · 1,867 views
compressor, refrigerator and 1 more...
One of the many things that can make a refrigerator warm up is the compressor is trying but failing to start. You may occasionally hear this type of noise from the back of the refrigerator (starts about 15 seconds in):




This is the sound of your compressor trying, but failing miserably, to start. Best case scenario: Bad compressor start relay. Worst case scenario: open compressor start winding or seized compressor bearing == buy a new refrigerator.

Question: How do you tell which is which?

Answer: Compressor test cord.

Question: What's a compressor test cord and how do I make one?

Answer:


Posted Image

Question: How do you know which is the start, run, and common connection posts on the compressor?

Answer: Use Brother Bobice's procedure for identifying the compressor electrical terminals:

Using a good multimeter set on ohms, remove the compressor terminal cover with the unit off.

Touch one lead (of the meter) to one terminal and the other lead (of the meter) to one other terminal and record your reading . Lets call these terminals (A) and (B). The remaining terminal lets call ©

So for example A-B=7 Ohms

Now lets read A-C and record. Lets say 5 Ohms

Now lets read C-B and record. Lets say 12 Ohms

Now lets add all the A’s= 12 Ohms

Now lets add all the B’s=19 Ohms

Now lets add all the C’s=17 Ohms

The highest reading will be the “Start” winding

The next highest reading will be the “Run” winding

The lowest reading will be the “Common” winding

Therefore B= “Start”

The next is C=”Run”

The remaining terminal A= “Common”




Tips for fixing Amana refrigerator door closing problems

Posted by Samurai Appliance Repair Man, in Refrigerator Repair 10 June 2013 · 1,745 views
refrigerator, door, closing, seal and 1 more...
Brother Durham offers these sage and comforting words of appliantological wisdom for dealing with door closing and sealing problems in Amana refrigerators. Let us attend:

After working on countless fridges with door closing problems in my refurbished store as well as outside repairs, I usually can get them to close without having to buy new door closers or hinges...
Amanas have been the most problematic of them all but there are several things you can try before buying new parts....

this is stream of consciousness so not in any particular order...do the easiest ones first

1) make sure the doors are aligned ....adjust the top hinges so the doors do not touch when closing....you have to find the proper angle

2) Soften the gasket with a steamer or hot water to make it pliable...don't forget to check the very bottom of the fridge

3) try adding a bit of food grade oil/grease on the right hand side of the fridge where the fridge gasket "rides" against it. There have been some discussion about the oil's effect on plastic gaskets....I have never experienced this problem....it may degrade the plastic after many many years.

4) make sure that any light switch that is pressed by the door when closing is at a proper angle to the door and does not stick

5) Adjust the fridge feet or wheels so that there is a slight incline on the fridge to enable gravity to assist in closing. This is proper for older non bottom freezer fridges.

6) Sometimes doors can get bent and many manuals advise slightly bending them back in alignment so that the top and bottom gasket hits the fridge at the same time.

7) adding a washer to the bottom hinge pin can slightly raise the fridge door and make closing easier

8) make sure there are no shelves out of place. Some fridge manual advise that certain door racks not be placed to where it hits food or drawers inside the fridge cabinet

9) The sneakiest one of them all and has caused be much consternation in the past is this: there is a metal piece attached to the door near the bottom hinge. It is there for cosmetic purposes to hide the hinge. Sometimes they get bent and causes the door not to close as easily as it should. You can remove it or bend it out of the way if you find that it hits the bottom of the fridge.

10) Make sure your gaskets and area where the gaskets seal on the fridge are clean and dirt free.

If none of the above works, you may need to get another door closer for the bottom hinge.



Source: Amana refridgerator door problem






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