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Troubleshooting Clumping Ice in an Ice Maker Bucket and not Dispensing Properly

Posted by Samurai Appliance Repair Man, in Refrigerator Repair, Icemaker Repair 10 February 2013 · 1,175 views
refrigerator, ice maker
If your refrigerator has an ice and water dispenser, one of the things that may happen is that the ice in the bucket stops coming out the chute when you push the ice lever in the dispenser. This problem can be a real head scratcher to track down and Brother DurhamAppliance offers some sagacious tips and tricks for whuppin' up on it:

Finding the reason for clumped ice in an ice maker bucket is not always an easy thing. If you are lucky, the issue may be apparent otherwise you have to look for certain clues and use process of elimination.

This is how I would tackle your problem, it may not be elegant but it works for me.

First I would see if there is any obvious signs of problems like incomplete ice cubes, frost build up around the door or ice maker chute. This would give me a clue that the problem may be related to outside air. If not frost, as in your case, I may only do a cursory glance at the ice chute door, gasket and sealing capability of the freezer door. I do this on all fridge calls anyway. More than likely there is no air leak if I don't see frost. I then quickly see if the freezer door closes okay and engages the light switch.

Since I did not see any frost, my main focus would be on the ice maker and water valve. There is hopefully a perceptible leak so then I would start a harvest cycle with the ice maker. Most of the time If no frost is present, I start a harvest cycle even before I check the door, gaskets etc as mentioned in the previous paragraph since it's just a cursory check and I can complete it before the water valve engages. Btw with regards to your question about starting a harvest cycle ...no... only the whirpool style ice maker requires jumping. Your ice maker is started one of two ways depending on the type. If it has a white paddle, turn the ice maker off for about 10 seconds, turn it back on and press the paddle in three times within 6 seconds. If it has the metal bail arm, lower the arm and grab about two or three of the ejector "fingers" and gently but firmly pull then to you in a clockwise rotation. After a few seconds of doing this, release them and the harvest cycle will start. BTW the "fingers' as you call them on this style, are not in an up or 2:30 position like the whirlpool modular style when at rest. Remember this distinction as pulling the whirlpool style ejector fingers may destroy the ice maker.

After a few minutes, the ice maker will energize the valve. Water will enter the fill tube and run into the ice maker receiving cup. I'll look closely for leaking. If the tube or cup is partially frozen, water may fall in to the bucket. If so, problem found ..clear the ice buildup. If not, I'll look under and around the ice maker to check for any perceptible leaks. If a leak is found, I have to determine if it is coming from a crack or is the ice maker simply over flowing with water. If the latter, it may be possible to adjust the water fill level through an adjustment on the icemaker. This adjustment, however, usually adds or subtracts only about one or two tablespoons of water at the most. If this adjustment doesn't stop the overfill situation then I have to replace the valve.

If I still haven't found the problem then we have the dreaded (*&@#$!) imperceptible leak. That leak only shows up during lunar eclipses, on the 31st day of February or when you are not looking. It could be the ice maker unnecessarily energizing the valve or the valve itself. There's several ways to handle this. Replace them both or one at a time. This depends on how much time/customer's money you want to spend.

If the ice maker is more than five years old or has peeling Teflon coating, I would replace it first as it needs to be replaced anyway and see what happens. If leak continues after a few days, then it's time for a new valve.

If the ice maker is relatively new, I would replace the valve first since it is generally less expensive. If I get them from repair clinic I can always return the part that did not fix the problem.

There is also a neat test that can be done on the valve to see if it is the problem. Remove all ice and water from the ice maker, remount it but do not connect it. no...simply turning it off aint good enough. Keep it disconnected (or disconnect the ice maker side of the valve). If, after a few days, there is water in the ice maker, then undoubtedly we have a leaky water valve.

Other things to consider, ice maker mold heater not turning off, very high/low water pressure at the spigot, water filter issues and an out of sync ice maker, Whew! I need to start charging more for this repair. I'm exhausted just pretending to do it and I am certain I missed a thing or two. Anyhow, by now I should have solved the problem and it's time for a brewski. But no, can't since I'm pretending to be at work! All I can do is quietly celebrate by putting another victory notch on my screw gun.



To learn more about your refrigerator of to order parts, click here.


Source: GE refrigerator not dispensing ice


Service Tip for Samsung Refrigerators that Shuts Down and Won't Re-start Until Unplugged and Plugged Back In

Posted by Samurai Appliance Repair Man, in Refrigerator Repair 31 January 2013 · 2,002 views
Samsung, refrigerator

This is Samsung service tip with part #'s for this unit hope it makes it easier


Service Tip (Local)
Close
Refrigerator Stops Running Until Unplugged Category Home Appliances > Refrigerator > Bottom Freezer Model Code RB1844SL/XAA / RB1844SW/XAA / RB1855SL/XAA / RB1855SW/XAA / RB1855VQ/XAA / RB1944SL/XAA / RB1955SH/XAA / RB1955SW/XAA / RB1955VQ/XAA / RB2044SL/XAA / RB2044SW/XAA / RB2055BB/XAA / RB2055SL/XAA / RB2055SW/XAA / RB2155SH/XAA / RB2155SW/XAA Added by STEVEP Registered date 06.01.2008 Description


Symptom: Refrigerator stops running and cooling daily and will not run unless unit is unplugged and plugged back in.
Models Effected:RB units with 4 letter model numbers such as RB2055 / RB1944 / RB1844 etc .......
Possible Cause and Diagnostic Procedure.

  • Check Both Defrost Circuits for Open Thermal Fuse.
  • Access Main PCB in compressor compartment and locate CN70 connector.
  • For Refrigerator compartment check for an open circuit by taking a resistance reading between WHITE and GREY / For Freezer side check between BROWN and GREY.
  • If open Thermal Fuse is identified it is recommended to replace both compartment Thermal Fuses with a Bi-Metal as well as both Defrost Sensors.
  • Bi-Metal # DA47-10160H
  • Sensor #DA32-00006W
NOTE:
If one of the thermal fuses fail the unit will not come out of defrost and will only restart when unplugged. Once unit is powered back up the board defaults to factory settings. The unit runs and will go into defrost after 4hrs of compressor run time and never come out until unit is powered down and back up again. Then 4 hours later the same thing and so on.......
Attached Files Satisfaction Index
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btenpin



To learn more about your Samsung refrigerator or to buy parts, click here.

Source: Samsung Refrigerator RB2155SH XAA shuts down every 6 hours


Tip for checking a mechanical cold control in a refrigerator

Posted by Samurai Appliance Repair Man, in Refrigerator Repair 17 December 2012 · 1,008 views
refrigerator, cold control and 1 more...
Some refrigerators use a mechanical cold control like this one:


Posted Image


for regulating the temperature inside the compartments. These controls have a feeler capillary tube attached to the body of the cold control. Inside the body, changes in temperature, as picked up by the capillary tube, cause the bellows to expand and contract which, in turn, causes a set of electrical contacts to open and close. These contacts control the line power to the compressor and need to be closed for the compressor to run.

When troubleshooting a refrigerator that's warming up and you notice the compressor isn't running, one of the things you'll need to check the cold control. You could check continuity of the contacts and think the control is good but beware the adage that's been indelibly etched into the minds and hearts of all seasoned appliantological warriors: Ohms checking is merely preliminary-- something can check good on ohms and still be bad. Never accept an ohms check as conclusive proof that something is good.

Professor Willie offers some additional insight into the failure modes of mechanical cold controls:

That is actually one of the more common failure modes of a cold control to be intermittent.

If you pull the old one apart after you replace it, I can pretty much guarantee that you will find the contact points look quite crispy and melted.

One good way to know this is your problem is when you find that the unit it off and starting to thaw out, don't turn or touch the control dial, just give the control area a good slap and if it starts when you do that you can be pretty much assured you have a bad cold control, (the jolt or turning it up or off/on will make the contacts connect again until it opens and tries to close on its own).



Source: Kenmore Refer Mod#106.58582892 warm in top of freezer


LG Refrigerator Compressor Start Relay Madness

Posted by Samurai Appliance Repair Man, in Refrigerator Repair 13 December 2012 · 2,136 views
LG, refrigerator, start relay and 1 more...
Every now and then, you run into a real CF when you're trying to order a part to fix an appliance. A case in point is trying to get a start relay kit for some models of LG refrigerators, such as the LFX25960ST.


Posted Image


Grand Master kdog, adept extroidinaire of all things appliance repair, explains how to de-frak this mess:

I had the exact issue with the same model # before - this got me out of it.

The components do not all show up on the literature - at the time I was working for a very large company that had alot of pull with LG and I begged them to contact LG to correct this issue for future folks that get caught.

I did not replace the capacitor as it was not required



One of the prongs on the relay will just be unused - no biggie, I knew this because i was sent to the fridge with a control board that had been ordered and overnighted (very costly delivery) - just to find out there was no issue with the board, can't just look at the lady and say I need to order parts again (no fridge!), rummage around in truck and find replacement by eyeball matchup (no app for that).

I should expand on that a bit - I recognized the particular model of Embraco compressor that I have seen many times in W/P built fridges and went from there.

Relay terminals are all numbered



Here's the link to the start relay you need ==> http://www.repaircli.../4387835/586449


Source: LG Fridge Model# LFX25960ST, Totally Stumped!


Refrigerator Troubleshooting and Repair: Ice, Frost, and Condensation

Posted by Samurai Appliance Repair Man, in Refrigerator Repair 08 December 2012 · 7,845 views
refrigerator, ice, frost and 2 more...
A common problem with refrigerators is the appearance of various forms of water in places where it shouldn’t be. Examples are: water at the bottom of the freezer and dribbling out the door in a side by side refrigerator; fuzzy frost built up on the back wall inside the freezer compartment; moisture on beer bottles and the side walls inside the refrigerator compartment (also called the Beer Compartment); solid slab of ice on the bottom of the freezer compartment.

In each of these examples, we’re dealing with water that’s out of place. Water in a refrigerated space can take on three forms: ice, frost, and condensation. Which of these forms you see, along with where you see it, are important clues to help you zero in on the needed repair.

Condensation problems will appear as “sweating” on jars and bottles and sometimes even on the sidewall in the refrigerator compartment. Condensation is caused by water vapor condensing into a liquid as it hits the cold surfaces inside the refrigerator. When you see this, it means outside, humid air is getting inside the refrigerated compartments when and where it shouldn’t. So, you’re looking for bad gaskets, doors not closing properly, or doors being left open from carelessness.

Ice refers to liquid water that froze into a solid. This sounds obvious but it’s an important distinction from frost, also known as rime ice, that fuzzy looking stuff that is formed when water vapor condenses directly into a solid. The important point here is that ice and frost are the effects of two completely different underlying causes.

If you see smooth or solid ice in a freezer, then you know you’re really looking for liquid water in places where it shouldn’t be (that ended up freezing): clogged condensate drain in the drip trough below the evaporator coil; ice maker fill tube leaking or out of place; ice maker mold leaking.

If you see frost or rime ice in a freezer, then you know you’re really looking for water vapor that’s getting into the compartment. How does water vapor get into a refrigerator? It comes in with the outside air. In most cases when you see frost in a freezer, you’re looking for an air leak: bad door gaskets or doors not closing all the way. This video shows an extreme example of rime ice all over the contents inside a freezer:



Sometimes, you’ll see both ice and frost appearing together in a freezer which can make diagnosis tricky. In this video, I walk you through an example of such a case and I explain the failure sequence:




A special (but common) case for diagnosing frost in a freezer is when you see frost accumulated on the evaporator coil or back wall inside the freezer that covers the evaporator coil. This indicates a defrost system failure (defrost terminator stuck open, burned out defrost heater, bad defrost timer (on older units) or adaptive defrost control (ADC) board).

The reason rime ice forms on the evaporator coil in the first place is because the coil operates at a temperature of -20F. At that temperature, water vapor that contacts the coil will condense and freeze directly into a solid, forming rime ice. Every few hours the defrost system should kick in and melt that ice, because if it’s allowed to accumulate it will eventually act as an insulator, preventing the air from contacting the evaporator coils and getting cold. The resulting problem would first be seen as a warm refrigerator compartment and, if allowed to continue, eventually the freezer will also get warmer than normal (normal = 0F). Rime ice accumulated on the inside of the back wall in the freezer will often be seen at this point.

This melted rime ice has a special name: condensate. (Not to be confused with condensation, although the words are similar, they arise from two different causes.) Condensate refers to the water that gets melted off the evaporator coil in the freezer compartment during the defrost cycle. This condensate drips onto the condensate drip trough below the evaporator coil and drains out the condensate drain– a hole in the condensate drip trough– through a tube to the drain pan placed down by the compressor where it eventually evaporates due to the combined action of the compressor heat and condenser fan motor.

This video shows a freezer with extreme rime ice buildup on the back wall inside the freezer due to a defrost system failure:



If you need expert, interactive help in troubleshooting and repairing your refrigerator and service manuals, become an Apprentice here at the Appliantology Academy ==> http://apprentice.appliantology.org/

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