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Samurai Appliance Repair Man's Blog

An inside look at the guts of a refrigerator compressor in action

Posted by Samurai Appliance Repair Man, in Refrigerator Repair 06 January 2012 · 1,696 views

If you've ever looked in your refrigerator's compressor compartment, you've set eyeballs on the compressor, a warm, black, steel ball. Here's an inside look at the guts of the compressor in action. Cool video!

Domos to Sublime Master Santa for posting this in The Dojo.

How to fix a Subzero 550 that repeatedly freezes up the defrost condensate drain

Posted by Samurai Appliance Repair Man, in Refrigerator Repair 05 January 2012 · 1,720 views

The real problem is that the insulation is becoming saturated with water and unable to keep the surrounding area from freezing. You can install this kit as a permanent fix.

Now, here's the kick in the pants: thanks to SZ, you can no longer buy the floor heater thru the link above-- it's left there because at the time of the original post you could and it shows you a photo of the kit. SZ decided they wanted to keep those parts profits in house so you have to buy it thru either SZ or one of their beeotches.

Source: Subzero Mod 550, defrost drain iced up

Why does a refrigerator in a cold garage have trouble keeping the beer cold?

Posted by Samurai Appliance Repair Man, in Refrigerator Repair 20 December 2011 · 1,978 views
Refrigerator, Garage, Porch and 1 more...
Brother DurhamAppiance delivers today's sermon and illumines us. Let's listen...

Outside temps can affect fridges in many ways. The outside cold air is influencing the thermostat located in your fresh food section. When outside temp drops below 55 degrees, the compressor will be off for longer than usual awaiting temps in the fridge to rise. there is a garage kit that can help you....it should work for your frigidaire made kenmore http://www.repaircli...3918301/1037646

Source: Kenmore 253.68889014 too warm in cold garage

How to remove the freezer drawer in a Maytag French Door refrigerator

Posted by Samurai Appliance Repair Man, in Refrigerator Repair 05 December 2011 · 5,463 views

Freezer Drawer
1. Open drawer to fully open position.
2. Remove upper and lower baskets.
3. Remove screws one in each rail marked on side of rail.
4. Lift front of drawer up and out to remove drawer.
5. Set drawer on a padded surface to prevent damage to finish.

Source: MFI2266AEB Maytag French Door

GE Refrigerator Appliantology: Dampers and Thermistors

Posted by Samurai Appliance Repair Man, in Refrigerator Repair 30 November 2011 · 1,945 views

This is the next in a series of posts I’m doing about the technology used in GE refrigerators. Understanding the basics of how these refrigerators work will give you a lot of troubleshooting insight when you’re trying to track down a problem.

For the previous post in this series on controlling and operating the fan motors in GE refrigerators, see this page.

This post gives useful tips and Fun Facts to Know and Tell for diagnosing the Damper Door and Thermistors.

Damper Door

The Damper Assembly has two motors: one to open the Damper Door and another to close it.

The Damper Door should always be either fully open or fully closed; if you ever see it in a halfway state, there’s a problem. Check it in diagnostic/self-test mode where you can run a test to open and close the damper door.


Thermistors are basically variable resistors whose resistance changes with temperature. They come in two flavors: Positive Temperature Coefficient (PTC) and Negative Temperature (NTC). In the PTC thermistors, the resistance increases with increasing temperature whereas in NTC thermistors, the resistance decreases as the temperature increases. All thermistors used in GE refrigerators are NTC.

Most of the side-by-side units will have four thermistors:
- attached to the evaporator coil
- freezer space
- beer section space
- damper

You can see a diagram showing thermistor locations in side-by-side units here ==> LINK

Units with the Custom Cool feature will have a fifth thermistor for the Custom Cool compartment. Lower end units will just have three thermistors.

In all units, the thermistor attached to the evaporator coil is the most troublesome.

There was a rash of problems with one of GE’s old thermistor suppliers a while back where they weren’t sealed properly so moisture got into ‘em and knocked ‘em out of calibration. More about that here ==> LINK

The refrigerator control has a self test for the thermistors, but it only tests if they’re open or closed. In real life, the thermistors rarely fail that way– usually they simply go out of calibration resulting in poor temperature control.

To learn more about your refrigerator, or to order parts, click here.

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