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Samurai Appliance Repair Man's Blog



Replacing the Door Boot Seal on an LG Front Load Washer

Posted by Samurai Appliance Repair Man, in Repair Videos, Washing Machine Repair 04 March 2013 · 2,190 views
LG, washer, bellow, gasket
Every battle-hardened professional Appliantologist has his favorite technique for replacing the door gasket (also called the "boot" or "bellows") on front load washers. Although the door gasket on all makes of front loaders are very similar in construction, there are enough differences among the brands that certain techniques work better on some brands than on others. For example, many Appliantologists prefer to replace the door gasket on a Whirlpool Duet washer without removing the entire front panel of the machine.

Although the door gasket on LG washers is very similar to all the rest, that inner retaining spring seems to be just tight enough that it's worth the extra effort of removing the front panel to facilitate the installation. LG also makes two special spring pliers to help with removing and reinstalling the outer and inner retaining springs. Most Appliantologists say they can get by without the outer spring clamp tool but that inner spring clamp tool is worth the price of admission.

The other big thing to watch out for with getting the replacement LG door boot is to check to see if the model you're working on has the extra drain port at the 6 o'clock position or not. Sometimes, even looking up the door boot by model number will give you the wrong replacement boot and the presence or absence of the drain port seems to be the key difference.

Here's a video that shows how to replace the door boot using both the outer and inner spring clamp pliers and by removing the front panel of the machine.




To learn more about your washer to order parts, click here.


Resetting a GE Hydrowave Top-Loading Washer

Posted by Samurai Appliance Repair Man, in Repair Videos, Washing Machine Repair 20 February 2013 · 619 views
GE, washer, hydrowave, hydrawave
If you have a newer model GE top-loading washer (GE's Hydrowave line of washers) and it inexplicably stops working, won't run at all, the problem may be as simple as needing to reset the control board. Very easy to do and no tools are required:




To learn more about your washer or to order parts, click here.


Source: GE Hydrawave Washer Motor Reset


Do you like using those cute, all-in-one detergent capsules in your washing machine or dishwasher?

Posted by Samurai Appliance Repair Man, in Washing Machine Repair 11 February 2013 · 724 views
dishwasher, detergent, washer and 1 more...
Then you need to heed the wise words of Brother Wingerman:

Had three service calls in the last two weeks on overflow/leak of detergent dispenser on front loader washing machines. Customers are putting capsules in dispenser rather than the tub. This causes, in some cases, incomplete desolving of capsule which leads to blockages and overflow. LG has a note/bulletin on the issue. Remains to be seen how the long-term "proper" use of these will effect sensors in the motor.



To learn more about your washer or to order parts, click here.



Source: Capsule Detergent FYI


Some Pearls of Wisdom on the Maytag MAH2400AWW washer and on the Maytag Brand in General

maytag, monkey dung, washers
Our Brother in The Craft, nickfixit, who has logged hundreds of thousands of hours in hand-to-appliance combat in his distinguished career as a Professional Appliantologist, offers his unique and practical perspective on the Maytag MAH2400AWW washer on the once-venerable Maytag brand in general. Ignore his wisdom at your own peril:


Todays topic MAH2400AWW

As usual a Maytag, even though they didn't build it, they brought this piece of fucking junk into the US. All you got to do to make something a worthless pile of steaming monkey dung is slap the Maytag name on it. Even the Whirlpool built Maytags suck big time, the Maytag badge is a curse apon the land.

I quess it's just asumed, by the "engineers", that an apartment sized front load washer would never have the dryer stacked on top and be shoved into a closet next to a water heater. And there isn't any way a coin could ever get into the pump. So I figure it was a great idea to have no front access panel or filter or coin trap. An even better idea was to put the pump as far from the rear access panel as possible. And kudos to the fucking shit head who made the pump mount screws go up through the base, that was a nice touch. The crowning achievement is the muderous sharp edges on every metal edge.

After suffering a two hour process to remove a quarter, I have this wish for everone involved with this machine being in my homeland..

"I want to bash you in the 'nads a 1000 times with an aluminum baseball bat until you cough up you own skull"

Bastards


To learn more about your washing machine or to order parts, click here.


Source: A Mini Rant


How to Test the Motor and Start Capacitor in a Whirlpool Direct-Drive Washer

Posted by Samurai Appliance Repair Man, in Washing Machine Repair 31 January 2013 · 2,736 views
Whirlpool, washer, capacitor and 1 more...

With a simple multimeter, you can do a basic static test of the capacitor. All this tells you is if the capacitor is shorted or not. Basically tells you if it's bad but not necessarily if it's good. You should first short the capacitor out with a screwdriver to make sure it doesn't have a charge on it that could damage your meter. Set the meter to read ohms and place the probes across the terminals. Initially, it will be a short circuit and read zero or very low ohms but it will quickly charge up so the reading should be increasing in ohms value. It's best to do this with an analog meter so that you can see the meter needle swing as it charges up rather than seeing a bunch of increasing numbers on the digital meter.

Posted Image


To get a better indication of the condition of the capacitor, many multimeters have a capacitor check function that will read the value of the capacitor. Something that just an ohmmeter cannot do. Here, I am showing this type of meter reading a capacitor from a GE machine. It is showing 47.39 microfarads which is within tolerance of the 45 mf capacitor.

Posted Image

The problem with these static tests is that you are only using the low DC voltage of the meter to test the capacitor while in actual use, they will have 120vac across them. I have a piece of test equipment that will do full dynamic testing of capacitors that place full rated voltage across them and check for value, leakage, and ESR (resistance). This can find problems that a multimeter cannot. Most tech's don't have this type of equipment and really don't need it. If it doesn't look like it's been cooking, doesn't smell bad, isn't shorted (seems to charge ok with multimeter), it's probably ok. Best to just carry a couple spares to do a quick swap check anyway. You cannot bypass the capacitor as the motor needs it to start. You can however, disconnect the capacitor, apply power to the motor and quickly start it by hand to see if it functions. On Whirlpool motors, the capacitor is switched out of circuit anyway as soon as it gets going.

As far as the motor windings, overload and switch, you can do some basic ohmmeter tests. For the Whirlpool motors, you should read 4 to 7 ohms across the start winding (yellow and black wires), 3/4 to 2 ohms across the high speed windings (blue and white wires), 1 1/2 to 3 ohms across the low speed winding (white/violet and white wires), and 1 1/2 to 3 ohms across the extra low speed winding (white/orange and white wires). You can check the overload switch between the white/black and white wires which should read dead short (zero ohms). With the motor switch in place, you should read short (zero ohms) across the red terminal and black wire (start winding switch) as well as the same across the orange terminal and blue wire. You must remove the switch to further test the switch mechanism. With the switch removed, you should have open circuit between red terminal and black wire and open between orange terminal and blue wire and dead short between orange terminal and violet/white wire.

Power applied to a motor that won't rotate can be bad on the motor windings and capacitor. The capacitor is only meant to be in circuit for just a second or two til the motor gets up to speed. It is then switched out of circuit by the motor switch. If the motor won't rotate or the switch fails, the capacitor can quickly be destroyed.

Eric



Source: How to test a Whirlpool Direct-Drive Washer 3-speed motor & capacitor?






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