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Samurai Appliance Repair Man's Blog



How to replace the glass cooktop in a Frigidaire / Electrolux range

Posted by Samurai Appliance Repair Man, in Oven-Range-Stove Repair 15 December 2011 · 1,707 views

If your are going to replace a broken glass top with 5 elements, this might help.....
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Pull the unit out so you can get to the front and the sides without being a contortionist and more room to lay the two tops side by side.... Remove the two screws holding the white panels ( left and right sides) ,

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lean panel towards the door, the lowest fastener has a slot to hold in place

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, Remove the panel below the cooktop, four screws on each  side

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, There is a screw , black, on the front of the oven opening.. remove the screws left/right sides .

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.... Remove the screws at the clip, two legs visible,.......Get a mirror and look at each end, up in a small opening the is a screw, remove two..left/right sides..... then the two screws near the oven opening and the lower panel will fall down...  Then using the mirror again look up at  the front edge near the control panel, remove the four screws .....on the left/ right  sides you will see the screws holding the rear part of the cooktop , remove them..

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..disconnect the wire harness

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....lift the cooktop and push/pull the harnessout of the opening, then remove the cooktop.......

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..lay it upside down on a padded surface, lay the new one next to it

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...lift all of the mounting brackets.. Mark the locations of the /straps on the base of the elements....I forgot to take a picture of the removal of the 'straps'....Insert a small bladed screw driver in between the strap and the bracket, pry down on the strap side till the bracket will slip over the strap, carefull, the strap is still under pressure. Now I know you are wondering " how am I going to lift all five elements with out breaking any-thing "??? Just go out to your service van and get a piece of ply wood  ( more on your unusual wood products later )..

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..Stack the element onto the wood , transfer to the new cooktop and install into the correct locations.. Use the previous marks to align the strap locations..Use  the same screw driver to reinstall the straps... ( picture here ))...Just push the bracket over the strap and remove the tool... Lay the new cook top onto the range, re install the wire harness, connect them... Install the two cook top screws  left/right sides... ( about 5 pictures ago to view )...Just lay the front gasket ( for the keypad ) on to the keypad untill you start to reassemble... Install the four  fasteners across the front , near the keypad,.. to hold the cooktop in place,..................... position the gasket loosely and then tighten the four fasteners more, If you tight them just right the gasket will stay in place to finish tightening the fasteners..... Now just re install all of the parts in the reverse order ..................Hope fully everything should go as planed..................


To learn more about your range/oven/stove or to order parts, click here.




Source: Glass cooktop replacement  Frigidaire EW30ES65GWB




How to enter quick test mode in a Maytag electric double wall oven

Posted by Samurai Appliance Repair Man, in Oven-Range-Stove Repair 01 October 2011 · 899 views
Maytag, wall oven
RegUS_PatOff wrote:

Follow procedure below to use the quick test mode.

Entries must be made within 32 seconds of each other or the control will exit the quick test mode.
1. Press and hold CANCEL and BROIL pads for 3 seconds.
2. Once the control has entered the “Quick Test” mode, release both pads.
3. Press each of the following pads indicated in the table below.
NOTE: First time one of following pads are pressed it will activate the response.
The second time the pad is pressed it will deactivate the response.
Display will indicate the following:
Pad Response
BAKE................................... Bake DLB and Bake relay activated
BROIL.................................. Broil DLB and Broil relay activated
KEEP WARM ...................... Bake DLB and Broil DLB activated
CONVECT BAKE ................ Convection Fan on high speed
CONVECT ROAST ............. Cooling Fan activated
CLEAN................................. MDL relay activated
COOK & HOLD ................... Displays last diagnostic code
FAVORITE .......................... Displays EEPROM version number
TIMER ................................. Displays main code version number
CLOCK................................ All display segments illuminated
OVEN LIGHT.......................Oven light activated
CANCEL.............................. Exit Quick Test mode
1........................................... Even segments on
2...........................................Odd segments on
3........................................... Convection Ring activated; Convection Ring DLB activated
4........................................... Bake relay activated
5........................................... Broil relay activated
6........................................... Convection relay activated



Source: Maytag electric double wall oven MEW6630DDS is only beeping and not functioning


How to retrieve the diagnostic codes stored in the control board of a Maytag electric double wall oven

Posted by Samurai Appliance Repair Man, in Oven-Range-Stove Repair 01 October 2011 · 687 views
Maytag, wall oven
Grand Master Reg reads us the keypad dance:

Follow procedure below to use the quick test mode.

Entries must be made within 32 seconds of each other or the control will exit the quick test mode.
1. Press and hold CANCEL and BROIL pads for 3 seconds.
2. Once the control has entered the “Quick Test” mode, release both pads.
3. Press the AUTOSET button ..... Steps through last 5 diagnostic codes


Source: Maytag electric double wall oven MEW6630DDS is only beeping and not functioning


How to remove the oven light switch, door latch assembly, and hi-temp cutout on a Thermador CM302US oven

Posted by Samurai Appliance Repair Man, in Oven-Range-Stove Repair 06 September 2011 · 1,027 views

Master Reg illumines us:

from page 35 of the C302 service manual


REMOVING THE OVEN LIGHT SWITCH,
THE OVEN DOOR LATCH ASSEMBLY
and THE HI-TEMP CUTOUT


WARNING
Turn off the electrical power circuit to the oven at the main junction box before servicing this unit.

CAUTION
When you work on the oven, be careful when handling the sheet metal parts.
There are sharp edges present and you can cut yourself if you are not careful.


Refer to Figure 19 on the next page for the following steps.
1. Turn off the electrical power to the oven.
2. Open the oven door for the component you wish to remove.
3. To remove the upper air vent grille, remove the four bottom screws and the two front oven door latch screws.
4. To remove the lower air vent grille, remove the two front oven door latch screws, (see Figure 18),
then pull the posts on the ends of the air vent grille out of the catches in the chassis.
5. To remove the oven light switch, disconnect the wires from the terminals, press in on the locking arms,
and push the switch out of the vent (see inset 1).

6. To remove the oven door latch assembly (see inset 2):
a- Use a 1/4" ratchet and a 1/4" thin-wall socket and remove the two front hexhead screws from the latch bracket.
b- Pull the latch assembly to the right so that the flange on the left side clears the bracket,
and then pull it forward as far as the wires will allow.
c- Remove the wires from the switch connectors and the motor wires from the main harness.
d- To replace a door lock or door unlock switch on the latch assembly,
remove the two screws from the switch body, and remove the switch.



Source: THERMADOR CM302US UPPER DOOR LATCH INSTRUCTIONS


How to disassemble the door on a Frigidaire range oven to clean the glass

Posted by Samurai Appliance Repair Man, in Oven-Range-Stove Repair 28 August 2011 · 1,340 views

The job is done and my wife is very happy.

For those of you out there who are like me and new to self appliance repair I wanted to post a few of my own details in case someone else stumbles across this post with a similar issue.

  • As Kurtiusinterupptus explained above,  there are two tabs at the hinges that pull down toward the door and then lay flat to allow the door to be removed. Once these are down you close the door, it will not close all the way, so do not try to force it.. There will be a 8" or so gap like you may leave open if you are cooling the stove off. Once you meet this point simply lift straight up and out and it should come free. The door is not too heavy, but be prepared to take the weight.
  • For this model there are screws on the inside panel (facing up or topside if you laid it down with the handle facing the floor) and on the bottom edge that need to be removed.
    • There are six screws on the inside panel (3 per side), but only the ones that need to be removed are at the top (opposite the handle).
      • I took out all six, but found out the bottom four simply hold in the hinge assembly, so I put them back in.
    • When you remove the two screws that are through the handle, remember that this will release the handle from the door. If this is the only thing you have propping up the door (mine was laying flat, handle down, on a towel) the door will drop the two inches or so to the floor. No harm done for me, but I wished I had thought of it before.
    • The handle screws are held in place between the door panels by a metal bushing type thing (it certainly has a proper name that I do not know). They just sort of fell out on me, and I had no idea what they were, which was a little distressing at first as I was trying to make careful note so I could put it back together. I figured out what they were and really appreciated them when I put things back together as they made getting the screws though the outside panel a breeze at the were held firmly in place.
    • There are 4 screws on the bottom edge that all need to come out.
  • The inside panel will lift right out at this point and can be set aside. The inside glass is held in place by screws so there was no risk of it falling out.
    • I cleaned the glass lightly with windex, then water.
  • The glass for the outside panel just sorta sits there, so don't go picking up the door or it can fall out.
    • I cleaned this lightly as well with windex and water and just left it in place the whole time.
  • For reassembly, I set the handle screws through the inside panel and though the locking bushings I described above and they stood up nicely. Dropping the panel into place and getting the screws through to the other side of the outside panel was a breeze. Once it was through, I stood the door up and held the two panels in place with my hands.
    • There is a little bit of finagling that you have to do to keep pressure on the panels while getting the handle in place and screwed down. I wish I had had help for this step, but it's possible on your own.
      • It was during this step that I noticed there was a bunch of gunk built up on the outside panel under where the handles go. I never saw it before as I left the door face down the whole time. I cleaned it in place while holding the door, but in retrospect, I would have taken the outside glass out while the door was disassembled, turned it over and cleaned it.
    • The bottom 4 screws will zip right in.
  • Putting the door back on is just the reverse of the removal step above.
Thanks to Kurtiusinterupptus and Kdog for responding to my post.

I hope my additional ramblings above are of use to someone.


Source: Frigidaire Electric Stove FEFL79GCA






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