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Samurai Appliance Repair Man's Blog


Oven Self-Clean Folly

Posted by Samurai Appliance Repair Man , in Oven-Range-Stove Repair 15 November 2013 · 996 views
oven, range, self-clean and 1 more...
This is the time of year, the countdown to Thanksgiving, that we professional Appliantologists lovingly refer to as “Cooking Season.”

I love cooking season. It marks the next season in my local appliance service bidness from the warm refrigerator fire drills all summer long, through the inevitable slowdown after Labor Day, to cooking season when families get together to break bread and turkey legs, crack a few cold ones, catch up on each other’s lives and generally get on each other’s nerves. Through it all, Samurai Appliance Repair Man and Appliantology.org are right there with you, helping, listening, seeing things we shouldn’t see… oh, wait, that’s the NSA.

Many of my local service customers, aware that they’re coming up on Thanksgiving, figure they better go ahead and run a self-clean cycle on their range or oven in case that nosey mother-in-law decides to inspect the inside of the oven.

Problem is that this is about the only time during the whole year they run the self-clean cycle. More often than not, what ends up happening is that all the grease accumulated on the door latch motor gets hardened into a crusty, burnt cement that prevents the door latch from unlocking at the end of the cycle.

Result: door stuck closed at the end of the clean cycle and no access to the oven. I get dozens of these calls in the run up to Thanksgiving. It’s nice, profitable work for me so it’s definitely not in my self-interest to give away these closely-guarded trade secrets. But you’ve just reaped the bountiful benefit of reading my blog here at Appliantology!

I’ll let you in an another secret: Our range at home has the self-clean feature, like most medium to upper-end ranges do. We have never used it, not even once. I don’t generally get away with telling Mrs. Samurai what to do— she doesn’t take kindly to that and can get downright ornery. But when I explain to her that using the self-clean feature can break her oven and it might take me months to get it fixed (because no one pays me to fix my own broken stuff), she sees the light. And now you do, too.


GE Wall Oven: Display says "BAKE" but relays won't engage

Posted by Samurai Appliance Repair Man , in Oven-Range-Stove Repair 07 June 2013 · 844 views
wall oven, GE
Here's another tasty and expeditious troubleshooting tip from our friends at FixYourBoard.com, offering top quality control board re-building, specializing in bringing NLA control boards back from the dead. Here's something to watch out for when troubleshooting GE wall ovens. Same trick may apply to other brands and models.

GE Wall Oven: Display says "BAKE" but relays won't engage.

From our tech support conversation:
Tech Support: Is the door closed or open?
Tech: Closed.

.... long conversation with measurements etc ...

Tech Support: I'd like to verify the functionality of the plunger switch on the door. Can you locate it?
Tech: Yes, that's what I'm holding in to "close the door".

.... Ka-Ching! ... Nooo!!!

Tech Support: Please physically close the door and try again.
Tech: The oven is heating!


If the control board thinks the door is open it prevents the heating element relays from engaging.
This is completely determined by the state of the 2 micro-switches in the LATCH MECHANISM.
(To cook switch #2 (top) MUST BE CLOSED, switch #1 (bottom) MUST BE OPEN)
The oven controller DOES NOT SENSE the PLUNGER switch!

Remember this to save wild geese. :woot:

Source: GE Wall Oven: Display says "BAKE" but relays won't engage.


How to Replace a Radiant Burner in a Jenn-Air Glass Electric Cooktop

Posted by Samurai Appliance Repair Man , in Oven-Range-Stove Repair 20 February 2013 · 2,130 views
Jenn-Air, jennair, cook-top and 1 more...

from the service manual:

Main Top Removal
1. Disconnect power to cooktop.
2 Remove cooktop from installation position and place face down on protected surface.
3. Remove screws securing main top to burner box bottom.
4. Remove screws securing control panel box and conduit mounting plate to burner box assembly.
5. Remove main top.
6. Reverse procedure to reassemble, verifying that cooktop frame is properly aligned.
NOTE: Make sure the pieces of insulation, located in the front left and right rear corners,
are put back in place.
Failure to do so could create excessive cabinet temperatures.
Posted Image

Part link for the replacement burner ==> http://www.repaircli...mber=JEC0536ADB

Posted Image

To learn more about your cooktop or to order parts, click here.

Source: JennAir Glass Cook Top Model# JEC0536ADB, Replacing Burner, How to Remove Top?


Orifice Size Code Markings for LG Gas Stove Burners

Posted by Samurai Appliance Repair Man , in Oven-Range-Stove Repair 15 January 2013 · 1,848 views
gas, stove, burners
The orifice hoods are the little brass hoods that screw down on the gas jet that supplied the stove burners in a gas stove. Their purpose is to meter the correct amount of gas into the air-fule mixture that gets ignited at the burner ring. The diameters of the orifice vary with the BTU rating of the burner and the type of fuel being burned. Professor john63 provides us this handy listing of orifice metering hood size codes for LG gas cooktops and ranges:

Orifice size is determined by a letter stamped onto the orifice:





Source: LG Center Burners


Theory of Operation of Electrode Gas Flame Detection

Posted by Samurai Appliance Repair Man , in Oven-Range-Stove Repair 10 January 2013 · 1,325 views
gas, stove, burner, ignition and 2 more...
If you're working on a gas stove where the burners keep clicking even after the flame is established, you may be tempted to throw a new spark module at it and hope for the best. But you would probably be disappointed. Let's start the troubleshooting process with a fundamental understanding of how the spark module is supposed to detect that the burner has established a flame:

Come with me now on a wild romp through the theory of operation of electrode gas flame detection...

If you look closely at a finger of burner flame you will see that it is clearly made up of three separate elements: 1. Inner fuel rich cone 2. Ionized blue outer cone with current carrying capabilities and 3. Outer air rich mantle. When gas combined with air; burned energy is released in the form of heat and light. When the gas / air mixture is controlled, the outer blue cone will actually carry electrical current similar to a wire.

If we place a metal probe into this “Ionized Plume” and apply a voltage between it and the burner, current will flow. An important characteristic of a burner/flame/electrode assembly is its ability to mainly pass current in one direction. It behaves as a one way valve or rectifier.

Flame Rectification systems make use of this directional characteristic when detecting a good flame to distinguish it from leakage currents that can arise due to moisture contamination, soiled igniter tip, poorly grounded burner spreader ring / burner head, cracked igniter insulation or poor house ground.

An AC voltage is applied to the electrode from the spark module and the resultant current flow which is greater in one direction than the other, is electronically detected. This current is very small, about one microamp (one millionth of an amp).

The minimum recommended flame current measured under all likely conditions in an installation should be 1.0 microamps for re-igniters. When a burner flame is present the Ionized outer cone will be producing a small DC current. This current is known as Flame Current. The flame current has to be at a certain level to allow voltage from the spark module to flow efficiently.

The accurate placing of the electrode in the flame is important. This igniter tip needs to be perfectly located in the ionized outer blue cone to effectively send and then detect current flow.

To break it down further, the spark module acts as a simple capacitor. It saves voltage like a sponge until it can hold no more. It will save and release this voltage approximately 3 times per second. When the voltage is released it follows the spark wire until reaches the spark electrode tip. The built up voltage wants to leave the tip and move to the point of least resistance. In a healthy situation this will be the burner spreader ring. From the burner spreader ring the voltage flow will pass through the burner head, burner tube, chassis and to ground. An interruption of this current path will cause the spark system to misbehave, such as with the continuous clicking problem.

Source: G.E. ZGU36L6H4SS Cooktop

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