Gas dryer not firing up and all the components of the burner check out good but you're not sure how to check that flame sensor on the side of the burner tube? Samurai Appliance Repair Academy Fellow Budget Appliance Repair (a.k.a., Willie) reveals the wax on-wax off moves for testing the radiant sensor in a gas dryer.
The full way to bypass and test if the radiant sensor is the problem: 1) UNPLUG DRYER FIRST! 2) remove both wires from the radiant sensor 3) bypass the sensor by sliding the two connector terminals together and make sure they are away from everything 4) plug the dryer back in and set to a timer position that should heat. 5) start dryer and and watch for igniter to start glowing. 6) if the igniter glows wait about 10 to 12 seconds and pull the two wires apart carefully making sure not to touch the ends or short them to anything. 7) if all else is OK with the dryer the flame should light up when you separate the two radiant sensor wires 8) if the above all works OK and it didn't before then replacing the radiant sensor should fix your problem.
Here's the part link for the replacement radiant sensor ==> Flame Sensor
I know you checked the element, but I will almost guarantee that it is shorting out. Here is how you check it:
1. Bump Test (my own name for it ... you like? lol.) Put one lead from your meter on one of the heating element leads and the other other to the housing of the element. Now 'bump' the heater ... give it a good shake or rap with the butt end of a screwdriver. If you see any jumps at all in your meter, it is grounding out when hot.
If the 1st test does not show anything then:
2. Pull the heater and inspect it. When you get the top shell off, I'll bet that you find the plate between the coils has heated up and warped to the point where one of the coils is almost touching it. Usually at the very back of the element. In this condition, when the dryer gets hot, the coil sags slightly and you've got a short. This means the element does not cycle and gets hotter and hotter until the high temp t-stat blows.
Open the door and remove the 2 phillips screws in the hinges (item 20), remove the 2 phillips screw on the opposite side where the hinges would be if the door was reversed (item 35)
Flex the 2 upright pieces of item # 22 and pull forward and remove.
The front bulk head item # 29 is held in place with (2) screws on each side. You will notice that there are 3 screws on each side but one of them on each side only hols the bulk head together..doesn't actually attach it to the frame.
Once the screws are remove the screws and brackets item # 27.
Now you can raise the top about 2" and pull the bulk head off. There will be door switch wires attached...you can either leave them in place or disconnect from the door switch...just remember their locations.
The thermal fuse is item # 40...It will be attached to item # 43 should read "closed" with your meter or 0 continuity.
If this is the culprit make sure you clean the bulk head / filter housing as well as check your venting thuroughly for a clogg or restriction.
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