Troubleshooting tips for LG electric dryers that won't heat

Sublime Master john63 is The School's resident LG and Samsung expert and offers these troubleshooting tips for LG electric dryers that won't heat gleaned from actual hand-to-hand combat with these machines.

HEATING ELEMENTS in LG dryers **rarely** fail.

Unless-----the *exhaust vent* from the rear of the dryer-to-the-outside-venthood is/has been blocked/restricted for a very,very long time.

Even then---the Heating Element usually does not fail.

I've replaced perhaps **one** Heating Element in nine years.

On the other hand---THERMAL LIMITERS will & do fail if the *exhaust vent* is blocked/restricted.
If the *exhaust vent* is a very short-length (1 to 3 feet)---then the liklihood of the vent causing a failed THERMAL LIMITER is nil. The 2nd most common cause of *failed* THERMAL LIMITERS is from Fabric Softener Sheets. Once-in-awhile the Fab. Soft. Sheet will become "caught/sucked" onto the LINT FILTER HOUSING and this causes a giant reduction in AIR FLOW.
Air movement from the Heater-Through-The-Laundry-Through-The-Lint-Filter-And-Exiting-The-Dryer-Exhaust-Vent slows to such a reduced a level---which then causes the Heater Housing Temperature to "spike". This in turn causes the THERMAL LIMITER to *shut-down* the Heater--for safety.



When I get an LG electric dryer that has a NO HEAT complaint--the very first thing that I will examine/rule-out will be the *exhaust venting* that runs from behind the dryer to the outside dryer vent hood. If the vent is has been verified 100% to be absolutely-positively clear/unobstructed---and...

1) The wall receptacle has 220 volts

***Unplug the Dryer at this point***

2) The TERMINAL BLOCK is not damaged/burnt (this is where the dryer plug attaches to the dryer)

Then it's time to inspect the THERMAL FUSE. This is centrally-mounted on the side of the HEATER HOUSING.
If the THERMAL FUSE (6931EL3003D) has failed a *continuity* test using a Digital MultiMeter (DMM)--it should be replaced along with the THERMOSTAT (6931EL3001E) which is also mounted on the HEATER HOUSING.

If the THERMAL LIMITER tested "good"...

Place the test leads into the Motor Connector/Plug. One test probe into each of the two *thickest* wires of the Motor Plug.

Looking at the Motor---you'll notice a *black ring* on the motor shaft directly opposite the Motor PULLEY.
This *black ring* is part of the CENTRIFUGAL SWITCH on the Motor (prevents the Heater from functioning if the Motor fails to start).
Use your finger to slide the *black ring* towards/in the direction of the BLOWER WHEEL (it'll slide about 1/2 inch).
At this point the DMM should show *continuity*. If not--replace the MOTOR.  

If the CENTRIFUGAL SWITCH tests good---replace the MAIN BOARD (a rare failure for a NO HEAT condition but not impossible).

Source: LG DLE7177RM Not Heating