When the electromagnet pulls the plunger down, it doesn't close the drain flapper all the way, (only about 3/4 of the way closed), then the water pressure hits the flapper and holds it sealed against the spray arm outlet so the water goes out the drain.
When the water pressure hits the drain flapper and opens it the rest of the way it takes the load off the solenoid. The solenoid is only energized for about 30 seconds and if it finishes draining before the the timer turns off power to the drain solenoid then the return springs will pull pressure against the magnetic force of the solenoid and can cause the buzzing noise.
Customer Concern: Dishwasher stops approximately 10 minutes into the cycle, “cancel drains” and goes directly to standby mode (off).
Cause: Testing has determined that cycle stopping may result from a software error that can cause a false error code that cancels the cycle. Techs will see a 6-1 error code recorded in service diagnostics. This issue is very sporadic, and is affected by the location of the household and region of the country. Other conditions that may also cause this “cancel drain” cycle are: siphoning through the drain hose, severe sudsing, and debris in the sump.
Correction: If the customer experiences a “cancel drain” issue, first check the following: 1. Make sure the dishwasher is installed according to installation instructions provided with the unit. 2. Check for water siphoning out through the drain hose. Ensure that the drain hose end termination point is above the water level in the tub. The drain loop attached to the side of the tub is not sufficient to prevent siphoning. 3. Check for severe sudsing or a malfunctioning Rinse Aid dispenser. 4. Check for locked rotor in wash pump. 5. Check for and remove debris in the bottom of the sump/chopper area. 6. Check for water supply and proper water level in the dishwasher. 7. If all the above checks are OK, then the control will need to be replaced with one that has the upgraded software designed to handle any additional power variation.
Verify new board is Control BoardW10380685, the upgraded part.
If you're getting ready to do a major repair on a dishwasher, especially one that requires the dishwasher to be completely removed from the cabinet, Professor john63 offers some hard-won battle tactics based on his years of experience on the Front Lines:
I would describe myself as an expert in the dishwasher category---but not by design or intention.
After becoming an LG authorized servicer---we were literally inundated with warranty calls for failing/failed SUMP ASSYs.
Replacing a SUMP ASSY---requires removing the dishwasher from under the counter.
In addition to that---we *were* also an ASC for Samung as well.
After well over a hundred SUMP ASSY replacements---I've learned several things.
1) In kitchens with "built-up" floors---customers are required to hire a flooring contractor to remove a section of the kitchen floor (tile or otherwise)---to allow proper removal/repair/re-installation of the dishwasher. For the LG D/Ws---a mininum of 34 inches is needed from the floor-to-the-bottom-of-the-countertop.
If the dishwasher was out-of-warranty---I'd strongly recommend that the customer *replace* the existing dishwasher with a new model (usually GE) specifically designed for *built-up floors* (a brilliant idea,by the way).
2) Before beginning a dishwasher repair that involves removal from under-the-counter---quickly size-up the water and drain connections. If a cheap/plastic SHUT-OFF VALVE or a less-than-ideal drain arrangement exists---plan your repairs and estimates accordingly. Know where the Hot Water Heater AND Main Water Shut-off valves are located---before starting a repair. Replace any water or drain hose that looks remotely questionable. Once the repairs are completed---totally inspect the water supply and drain hoses. Verify that none have even a slow weeping drip. Run test the dishwasher. Sometimes a water line will develope a slow drip *after* the pressure fluctuates from the water valve opening and closing. When done---double check these connections yet again before leaving.
I wish I could brag that I have a flawless record of no water damage or insurance claims---but I don't.
In one case---I had replaced an LG Sump Assy---the installation of the dishwasher was so perfect (by someone else) that I only needed to slide out the dishwasher and place it on it's back and exchange the Sump Assy----and then re-install. The next morning---I got a call from the customer that a section of the drop ceiling in her basement had collapsed and the floor was wet. Turns out that the water connection under the sink was only *hand tight*---and the movement of the water line during my repair caused a slow drip (perhaps 1 drip every 5 seconds). Over 12 hours later---this created enough of a water leak to cause quite a mess. This was an insurance claim---that was totally preventable---if I had been more thorough.
Another leak occured when I again---repaired an LG dishwasher---in a newer home with REALLY cheap and odd plumbing fixtures. This leak was slow like the first one---but did not enter the basement. The cause of the leak was---the REALLY cheap (and weird) shut-off valve. Never seen one before or since. I didn't *like* it when I first saw it too. That was problably my sub-conscious brain telling me---maybe I ought to replace that unbelieveably fragile-looking shut-off valve. Small insurance claim for that one---sucks. Totally avoidable---had I followed my instinct to get rid of a questionable valve:)
3) The rest--is the usual stuff...
Re-install the D/W better than it was (most are installed terribly) Leave the work area cleaner than it was before arriving Protect flooring (cardboard works well for me) Keep toolbag/box and tools on a mat or cardboard sheet etc
Here's the low-down on a Whirlpool (or Kenmore-labelled, Whirlpool-built) dishwasher that has the Clean Light blinking seven times. In other words, blinks seven times, pauses, then repeats.
The reason the light is blinking seven times is because the control board is looking for a specific temperature rise in the water in the basin and is not seeing it.
"Well, if the water temperature ain't rising, then the heater must be bad, right?"
Maybe. But other things besides a bad heater can cause the water temperature to not rise. Let's list all the possibilities here:
1. Bad heating element, which we already mentioned. Check continuity of the element. Should be something low ohms, the exact reading is not important-- you're looking to see if the element is open. If the element is open, replace it.
2. Heating element not getting voltage. This could be as simple as a loose wire on the heating element or a bad hi-limit thermostat. Or the the heater relay on the control board could be bad, in which case you would replace the control board. Trace the circuit back with your meter and the wiring diagram until you find the missing voltage.
3. No water in the basin! The control can't sense a rise in water temperature if there's no water to heat. Makes sense, right? To check this, start the dishwasher. After it finishes the pump out cycle, listen for the hissing of the water filling. If it's very quiet or silent, then there's a problem with the water fill components: bad water inlet valve or the valve isn't getting voltage. Open the door and check the fill level. Water level should be a finger width below the heating element. If it's less than this, then the water inlet valve has gookus in the inlet screen and should be replaced.
4. The pump isn't circulating water over the heating element. If water isn't circulating, you probably have a bad motor-pump assembly. You can verify by placing a glass in the upper rack and running the dishwasher (after it fills) for about a minute. If the glass is less than half full, then the pump is weak or dying and should be replaced. Honestly, this is most common cause the Clean Light blinking problem that I've seen. Here's the patented Samurai Technique® for replacing the motor-pump assembly in one of these dishwashers in less than four minutes, including beer drinking time:
To learn more about your dishwasher or to order parts, click here.
If you're having washability problems with this funkified Frigidaire-design dishwasher that uses a check ball to alternate the spray between the upper and lower spray arms, Professor Willies explains the basic operation:
You can simulate the pause of the control to check if the spray arm switch from bottom to top and you can tell by the sound change that the top arm is routing instead of the lower arm, (top arm spraying against door is louder).
Start the unit up and let it run for about two minutes then carefully pull in on the door handle for about 1/2 second and release so it while holding door shut. This creates a pause just like the timer/control board would do.
The pump has to run for at least around two minutes with the lower arm spraying before you can try to switch to the upper arm because there is a bleed hole that water can slowly bypass the check ball thus filling the tube that runs to the upper spray arm up with water that will come rushing back down the tube and re-seat the check ball against the lower spray arm outlet then the pump starts again and pushing the check ball against the lower arm outlet and water flows to upper arm.
To switch from upper arm to lower arm there is a longer pause because it has to let the water complete empty back down the tube and let the check ball settle back down on the lower end of the ramp before starting up the pump again and sealing the check ball against the upper arm outlet.
And Grand Master kdog offers this experiential wisdom:
I have seen several of these balls 'wear out" - often they become almost oblong and bind in the track
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