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Samurai Appliance Repair Man's Blog

Troubleshooting tip for Whirlpool inverter-type microwave ovens with an F7 error code

Posted by Samurai Appliance Repair Man, in Microwave Oven 30 May 2013 · 3,348 views
whirlpool, panasonic, F7 and 2 more...
The high voltage system in microwave ovens is used to power the magnetron and generate the microwave sound energy that cooks the food. This voltage is in the range of 2,000 vdc. There are two ways of producing this high voltage. The older, conventional way is using a high voltage transformer, capacitor and rectifier. This is a pretty reliable configuration and easy to troubleshoot and repair.

The other way of producing the high voltage for the magnetron is using an inverter board. These are ofter nightmares to troubleshoot and expensive to repair.

In these Whirlpool inverter-type microwaves (built by Panasonic), the F7 error code indicates a problem with the inverter board.

Sometimes you may see a burned spot on the inverter board confirming the error code. But absent any visual confirmation like that, Brothers JJ Surfer and Chat_in_FL offer this heads-up when troubleshooting Whirlpool inverter-type microwave ovens that throw an F7 error code.

Be careful.. I've had a bad mag throw the same error, I would check mag for shorts and continuity first before ordering inverter board, high limit t-stat on cavity or mag could cause dead condition (no display) although I don't think those reset.

As JJ Surfer just said: Also check magnetron terminals to ground. After replacing the inverter and control board, I've found a shorted mag will also give you this F-7 error code, indicated by pulsing power to the mag just before the error code is displayed...

Test the magnetron by ohming between the terminals, should be very low resistance, typically less than an ohm. Then check from one of the terminals to the magentron casing. Should wide open-- if you read continuity or some resistance, then the magnetron is bad.

If the magnetron checks good, you can get the replacement inverter board here:

1100 watt Inverter board: http://www.repaircli...mber=GH6177XPS5

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40 watt Inverter board: http://www.repaircli...mber=GH6177XPS5

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Source: Whirlpool Microwave

A cautionary PSA for Grasshoppers undertaking microwave oven repair

Posted by Samurai Appliance Repair Man, in Microwave Oven, Humor 14 May 2013 · 1,110 views
This Public Service Announcement is brought to you by Brother PDuff:

I'm reminded of one time, a fellow tech and myself were at the shop. He was working on a large countertop microwave and I was down the hall in the front office. We could see each other and were carrying on a conversation, I forget about what. I'm absolutely positive he had a few fillings in his mouth because as he was looking and talking to me his hand must have touched the high voltage diode or capacitor, discharging it. I kid you not sparks flew out of his open mouth! Being the trained and responsible guy I am I immediately fell to the floor, laughing my ass off. I eventually recovered and asked him if was ok and he said yes, just scared the hell out of him. I said, "Man, did you see sparks fly out of your mouth?" He said no, he must have missed that. Needless to say we both found new respect for microwaves and the awesome, dangerous, and sometimes hilarious power of the high voltage capacitor.

To learn more about your microwave oven or to buy parts, click here.

Source: Im DUMB and need help on Kitchenaid Microwave khms2040wss-0

GE Microwave Oven Makes Loud Buzzing Noise While Running

Posted by Samurai Appliance Repair Man, in Microwave Oven 13 April 2013 · 1,270 views

yes it is the transformer

the noise is a loose winding and will never stop the microwave from working or make it unsafe in any way

if you replace the transformer the noise will go away

Replacement transformer for your GE microwave oven.

To learn more about your microwave oven or to order parts, click here.


How to Fix a Kitchenaid Microwave Oven with a Door that Flops Down Hard

Posted by Samurai Appliance Repair Man, in Microwave Oven 09 January 2013 · 1,384 views
microwave, kitchenaid, door
The deal here is that one of the torsion bars is broken. Even though it's usually only one that breaks, you want to replace both as a set. For the stainless steel models, Grand Master Reg hooks up with the needed parts and diagram:

4451009 Black / White / Biscuit models
4452396 Stainless model (stronger tension)
(original SS models may have had one of each)

click on picture
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Source: Microwave Door Flopping Down, What Parts?

Tip for Testing the Door Switches in a Microwave Oven

Posted by Samurai Appliance Repair Man, in Microwave Oven 24 December 2012 · 1,648 views
microwave, switch, door
Most microwave ovens have three safety microswitches in the door latch assembly. The diagram below is typical:

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These microswitches aren't the most robust switches ever made and can be down right squirrely. They may test good one minute and then look bad the next. When a switch looks flakey like that, trust your meter and just replace it. Chief jumptrout's experience with this is typical:

Had a strange occurrence today on a microwave call.
The lower microswitch that activates closed when the door is closed was the problem.
With the switch in place and the door closed,there was no continuity in the switch.
I removed the switch and did a double test of the switch to verify a bad switch.
When the button was pressed,the switch made momentary continuity.
When completely depressed the switch broke continuity.
If you backed off on the pressure on the button,continuity resumed.
Has anyone seen a situation where this has happened?

Yep i have had that before a few times...nice catch. That can be easy to miss if your not diligent.

Source: Weird microswitch

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